[mattml430]

The ML500 is getting a bit of a birthday this week. I’ve been collecting parts for the last few months and I’m attacking it all this week. Rear brakes, rear shocks,front air struts, front wheel bearing, CV joints, all idlers and tensioners with new belt. Water pump, new cam adjusters, chains, guides and tensioners. Should keep me busy for a few days I think.
The car has 200,000km on it so it’s been such a good car so far I want to do a bit of preventative maintenance. A lot of the stuff is probably ok but with 200,000 on a lot of it it’s well deserved I think.
Front brakes were all brand new 6 months ago so they are done.


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[mattml430]

Parts below. Some genuine and some oem parts. Benz wanted $9000 for cam adjusters I got these ones for $1700.
I just can’t justify that much for them.

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[Yazovets]

That looks like an awesome project!! Kudos to your preventative maintenance approach!

Out of curiosity what makes the CV joints and usually how soon? Also why replace just the rear shocks? Aren't the front struts/bags which statistically go first?

What sort of rear brakes are your running? Are those aftermarket Zimmermans or a retrofitted 63 brake system? Cool stuff!

 

[mattml430]

That looks like an awesome project!! Kudos to your preventative maintenance approach!

Out of curiosity what makes the CV joints and usually how soon? Also why replace just the rear shocks? Aren't the front struts/bags which statistically go first?

What sort of rear brakes are your running? Are those aftermarket Zimmermans or a retrofitted 63 brake system? Cool stuff!

I am replacing the front air struts also.
Rear rotors are Bosch.
The CV joint went because of the boot had a split in it and the grease came out.


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[mattml430]

There is a lot of shit on these engines to get out of the way

I hope I remember how it all goes back together


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[Witek_M]

Replace all turbo cooling lines, all upper timing covers bolts as well. Bolts are aluminum and angle torqued.

 

[Yazovets]

Wow!! How did you get such good shots of the front of the engine? Camera on a stick or did you remove the bumper? That's a very complex belt system we've got.

 

[mattml430]

Replace all turbo cooling lines, all upper timing covers bolts as well. Bolts are aluminum and angle torqued.

Yes I ordered them yesterday along with some other bits. There is zero chance of those cooler lines coming out in one piece.

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[mattml430]

Wow!! How did you get such good shots of the front of the engine? Camera on a stick or did you remove the bumper? That's a very complex belt system we've got.

I removed the whole front bumper and radiator support. Probably overkill to do that, but wanted to for ease of access to the front of the engine.


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[Witek_M]

Those lines break when you look at them certain way.

 

[mattml430]

Have run into a bit of a hurdle.
The cam adjuster I was supplied are incorrect. My engine was on the month of a part change over so naturally we got the wrong ones. The guys I bought them of have been great and are getting some out of Germany for me as quickly as possible but with Christmas it will probably be mid January before I see them. Shit happens I guess.


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[Loneryder]

I hope you don'y doo all that work and somebody hits you and the car is totaled.

 

[mattml430]

I hope you don'y doo all that work and somebody hits you and the car is totaled.

WTF
That would be slightly disappointing.
2nd time out in my 29 dodge roadster after a full restoration a lady ran up my ass. It happens.

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[AnthraciteML350]

OMG What a beautiful old Dodge...A '29 really?! I think I would be afraid to ever take it our on the street again... So sad. I had an '82 928 that someone scratched on the passenger rear quarter panel, but the paint, Chiffon Weiss, was easy to match. A color which by the way, does not look to far off from that of your Dodge.

 

[mattml430]

The replacement cam adjusters came in today and fitted in perfectly.
Everything lined up nicely so I’ll try get it all back together tomorrow and see if it fires up. Hopefully I haven’t stuffed anything up.

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[mattml430]

She fired straight up today after I put it all back together. No chain noise at startup.
Rear shocks and rear rotors and brakes are all done. All pulley’s, tensioners and idlers , belt and plugs changed
Front right air strut, CV joint all done so all that’s left to do it the front left strut, wheel bearing and CV joint. Then the transmission service. Gave the radiator and condenser a good clean.
It was a little nerve racking doing that first start up but everything is good with no leaks. Hopefully she’ll be good for a few more hassle free miles.
Wheels got a bit of a freshen up also.

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[Yazovets]

Great looking wheel polish!!

 

[mattml430]

So after all that work where I thought I was going to cure the occasional long start,
it has not worked.
I’m getting the P001685
I was hoping by doing the cam adjusters and tensioners it would get rid of it
So since it’s come back I’ve replaced all four cam solenoids and cam position sensors with genuine. The cam sensor plugs did have oil in them so they have had a good clean. I’m hoping oil hasn’t made its way up to the ECU. I’ll check that tomorrow.
I’m open to any suggestions on what to look at next. The car runs and goes perfectly other than a long start. About 2-3 seconds at most.


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[mattml430]

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[mattml430]

After lots of reading and research it looks like a replacement intake cam shaft is the answer to the long crank due to the hall sensor slipping out of position.
My bank 1 cam is at 44 degrees and bank 2 at 38degrees. Specified values should be 36 degrees

The maximum allowable is 7.5 degrees so mine has just gone out of that range giving a constant long start.
I have corrected this and have got rid of the long start. I will see how it goes over the next week or so to see if it keeps working. It’s a very simple fix and will make a new thread about it if it keeps working.
Check engine light is gone and staying away.


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