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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
One of the most annoying things about a 30 year old 107 when we first receive them is the visors are ugly and falling apart, and will not stay up. This thread talks about the second problem staying up solid. Consider this thread to be the Viagra for visors.

First thing to understand is there are two adjustments on each visor. First adjustment holds the rod tight so it can remain suspended without the holding clip engaged. Second adjustment hold the visor tight to the rod so that it will stay up in place.

In addition there is a clip on each visor that often fails. The male portion of this clip is only available aftermarket by itself, or else you have to purchase the entire visor from MB for about $500.00. I originally replaced my clips about 5 years ago with ones I found on E-bay. They were $50 for just the 2 male pieces at the time. I replace my female clips with 2 that I bought from MB dealer.

Shortly after the 2 female pieces that I got from the dealer failed and I give 3 possible reasons:

1) Possible incompatibility of the aftermarket male piece with MB female piece. Also lack of key on old aftermarket piece.

2) Loose rod that made clip bear the full weight of the visor.

3) Broken upper windshield trim piece that provides support to the female piece.

I addressed the 1st issue by purchasing a male female aftermarket set on E-bay from a guy named "107 clips". His clips have a feature that the factory clips have and other aftermarkets including the ones I had do not have. That is the little molded in key that engages into the slot at the end of the rod.

Sun Visor Clips NEW W107 280SL 350SL 380SL 450SL 560SL | eBay

See the first 3 pictures that show my old male clip, the new male clip and the rod with the slot for the key in the new male clip.

If you need to replace your male clips or tighten the rod so it stays up you will need to remove the upper windshield trim. This is done by removing the dome lights, mirror, three screws that hold the mirror support and one screw on the outer underside of each trim piece. Note that the mirror just pulls off its mount with a sharp tug using both hands.

If you are working on the later 107s with the illuminated vanity mirrors you will have to disconnect the ground and positive wire for each mirror. Also note that the white wire terminal connector insulators are probably broken or missing. See picture #4. The part number for these is 000 546 08 45. I intend to order about 30 of these for both my cars. They are used all over the place and they are cracked all over the place. Good idea to have a few available before getting started.

Now you are ready to remove the visor. There are three screws at the mount of each visor the outboard most and inboard most screws are the mounting screw. the middle screw is the friction adjustment screw that allows you to tighten the rod so that it will support the visor when unclipped. If you intend to replace your male clips remove the two mounting screws only. If you intend to just adjust the visor so it stays up with the visor unclipped than just tighten the center screw shown in the 5th picture

Now to remove the rod from the visor. Unfortunately I diddn' take any pictures of this, so therefore I will have to write a 1000 words. There is a screw in the visor at the point where the rod enters the visor. This is the screw that adjusts the friction on the visor so that it will be tight about the axis of the rod. If your visors rotate downward with the clip engaged then this screw needs to be tightened. But to remove the rod and male clip you will need to loosen this screw about 1 turn.

Now what you cant see. The friction clip inside the visor has a slot in it. The slot faces the screw. The rod has a key in it. In the normal installed position the key faces away from the screw. In order to remove the rod, it must be rotated so the key faces the screw. Rotate the rod 180° from its normal installed position. The rod mount may interfere and have to be twisted a little on its ball socket mount to do this. Now the key and slot are lined up and the rod can be pulled out. Make a note of the male clip orientation before pulling it out they are not symmetric, suggest you do one side at a time or you can refer to picture #6. You will be fighting allot of friction from the male clip and you will be able to feel that the key is lined up in the slot as you pass through it. Once the old male clip is clear the new one can be installed. If you get a new clip like the one I got with the key in it you will notice that it has to be installed with the key 180° out of phase making it very tight to install, but once you rotate the rod to the normal installation position after clearing the base key you will feel the clip snap into the shaft slot. Installing this clip will require allot of strength and rotating back and fort as you work the clip onto the rod.

OK now time to install the visor using the outboard and inboard most screws. Connect the wires if your illuminated. Adjust the tension of the center screw so that the rod stays up with a suitable amount of friction. Adjust the screw on the visor so that the visor stays up with a suitable amount of friction.

Once the frictions are set the upper windshield trim can be installed. With the friction set correctly the visor rod should not fall with the clip disengaged as shown in the last picture #7.

Ina addition to all this I stated that my female clip failure may have been caused by a broken trim, picture #8, which lost some of the support for the female clip. To help with this I put a washer on the back side of the trim as shown in picture #9 so that the clip would bottom out before compressing on the trim piece. I know this will relive stress on the trim but not sure it will help with the female clip cracking.
 

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US spec MB560SL 1986, Audi A4 and A6, Ford Taunus 1964 17M and 2.0 1975
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1,419 Posts
I am also more than pleased get these detailed instructions, I have to repair my passenger side clips and change new mirror.
 

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1987 560SL
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406 Posts
I'd also like to replace the visor covers. Has anyone had their visors recovered? Can the covers be bought separately or do we have to buy complete visor assemblies?
 

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It Is What It Is, Dude
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22,841 Posts
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If MB still sells complete visors they're well over 400US.


Smack has a thread about his recovered visors.
 

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US spec MB560SL 1986, Audi A4 and A6, Ford Taunus 1964 17M and 2.0 1975
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1,419 Posts
I will send my visor to Germany for leather & stiching update, my mirrors do not fit seamless anymore with the other visor surface. My visors have been hardened and aged.

sl-edition shop - Index

Sonnenblenden R 107

They will make US models with vanity & mirror by asking.
 

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Premium Member
1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,624 Posts
Very timely, thanks Roncallo, a very usefull post. One of my visors is a real PIA and I've been avoiding fixing it as its in good shape appearance-wise but won't stay adjusted.
 

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85 380sl, 06 Jetta TDI, Wagon
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233 Posts
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If MB still sells complete visors they're well over 400US.


Smack has a thread about his recovered visors.
Didn't lfedje get his replacement visors from MB for $200 something each in the spring. I remember cause I was replacing my clips and was having trouble removing my mirror...oh but he doesn't have the light up vanity mirror.
 

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85 300SL Euro,97 SL320,95 S420,07 S550
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1,600 Posts
I will send my visor to Germany for leather & stiching update, my mirrors do not fit seamless anymore with the other visor surface. My visors have been hardened and aged.

sl-edition shop - Index

Sonnenblenden R 107

They will make US models with vanity & mirror by asking.

DTL has some good stuff for the 107 I bought some thing from them ,but with the visor I don't see where the bargain is.
They charge $400.00 I can replace them in the US for the same money or cheaper with after market ones, losing the lighted mirror,though
 

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Premium Member
1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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10,411 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
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If MB still sells complete visors they're well over 400US.


Smack has a thread about his recovered visors.
Just did a price check on these. They have come down in price. They now list at $326.00 per side. Now I'm going to do a price check on rear sub frame mounts and a return fuel line.

Also for anyone interested the 129 illuminated mirror is available separately listing at $145 per side. They maybe adaptable to aftermarket visors. Ive included pictures of the 129 visor and a closeup of the safety sticker.
 

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1987 560SL
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406 Posts
I replace my visor clips today and they work great. It's nice not to have floppy visors any more.

One problem though. I can't seem to get the mirror to pop back into place. It's one of those stupid, frustrating things that should be so simple, but it just won't cooperate. Any tips or tricks on getting the spring clips to reengage the bracket? My mirror was very tight to remove.
 

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Premium Member
1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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10,411 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I replace my visor clips today and they work great. It's nice not to have floppy visors any more.

One problem though. I can't seem to get the mirror to pop back into place. It's one of those stupid, frustrating things that should be so simple, but it just won't cooperate. Any tips or tricks on getting the spring clips to reengage the bracket? My mirror was very tight to remove.
Engage one side and push real hard on the other side, watch your fingers.
 

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1989 560SL, & 2000 ML430
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45 Posts
A very timely thread on visor repair. The "180 degree" & the "rod key" explanation is what I needed to read. Thanks roncallo...
 

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US spec MB560SL 1986, Audi A4 and A6, Ford Taunus 1964 17M and 2.0 1975
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1,419 Posts
Excelent writing - very easy to follow - thanks

I repaired my visors today. Excelent writing - really speed the job significantly.
 

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1973 450SL 2004 E320 4Matic Wagon 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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3,197 Posts
A good upholstery shop will recover and restuff them for about $100 a pair. A lot better than the MB price for new and they look good - the only difference being a sewn seam rather than glued.
 

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1987 560SL (L.Tonk) [92,700 miles]
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338 Posts
Thanks. I have to admit that I was a dumbass on this one. I had the damned bracket on upside down. :banghead: (Note to self. Drink beer AFTER tasks are completed.)
Argh, I did the exact same thing! You know you have it the right way if the screws countersink into the bracket.

I couldn't get the padded header off my 560, even with some fair force, as it was glued along the length of it, but I was able to move it just enough to get a screw-driver to the adjustment screw and tighten it. So nice to have the visor staying in place now!
 
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