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Any reccomendations..
107 drain old gas fuel how techniques return line cycles?
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450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro 300sel5spd R+C107galore
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25,246 Posts
Recommendation #1: use complete sentences so people understand what you are asking.
Recommendation #2: use the correct Subforum. Moving this to the 107 section.
Usually the fuel tank can be drained right at the fuel pump package, and you can pinch the main hose and pray it doesn't crack. You can also use the small hose from the accumulator (return) for a slower draining. Maybe that's what you were trying to ask.
And, welcome to Benzworld, the most active and helpful r/c107 forum (by far).
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Recommendation #2: use the correct Subforum. Moving this to the 107 section.
Usually the fuel tank can be drained right at the fuel pump package, and you can pinch the main hose and pray it doesn't crack. You can also use the small hose from the accumulator (return) for a slower draining. Maybe that's what you were trying to ask.
And, welcome to Benzworld, the most active and helpful r/c107 forum (by far).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
83 280 SL- 5 speed-The PIG
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35,855 Posts
Please fill out your profile with car and location.
Drain tank at the fuel pump feed hose.
Disconnect the return line at the FD and use compressed air to push back into the tank.
Joined
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10 Posts
got it.
Will do.
Thanks for the insight.
The car sat for 20+ years & i got it to start with new coil & starting fluid down the throttle body. No idle yet. It ran smoothish until the fluid its used up, then when i revved it from the throttle linkage while spraying starting fluid down the throat, it started to knock. Now it knocks every time i start it. Bad plug wire?
Rebuilt fuel pump & have rail pressure, but don't want to use old gas. The pump was shellacked with reddish residue.
I intend to change the in tank screen, then the fuel filter.
Then cross my fingers & let er rip.
Any words of wisdom or pitfalls?
I assume everything else in the injection system is functional.. Guess I'll find out.
Will do.
Thanks for the insight.
The car sat for 20+ years & i got it to start with new coil & starting fluid down the throttle body. No idle yet. It ran smoothish until the fluid its used up, then when i revved it from the throttle linkage while spraying starting fluid down the throat, it started to knock. Now it knocks every time i start it. Bad plug wire?
Rebuilt fuel pump & have rail pressure, but don't want to use old gas. The pump was shellacked with reddish residue.
I intend to change the in tank screen, then the fuel filter.
Then cross my fingers & let er rip.
Any words of wisdom or pitfalls?
I assume everything else in the injection system is functional.. Guess I'll find out.
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s ALL SOLD
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32,794 Posts
I'll ask for the same. Click on UserCP at the top of the page.
We don't even know what model you are working on. Could be D-Jet, K-Jet or KE-Jet.
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro 300sel5spd R+C107galore
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25,246 Posts
We shouldn't have to guess, but since he says "rail pressure" I'm going to guess this is a 1971-75 d-jetronic.
Yeah. It doesn't exactly sound like the smartest idea to run the car very long on starting fluid. Hopefully no damage was caused, but I can't envision the ignition system going bad in a short period.
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10 Posts
Just a few pulses of increasing magnitude up to around 1200rpm i guesstimate. Maybe 1500 max, to feel it out. For a total of about 20 seconds. I was conservative, & it didn't seem excessive.
If this fellow is so dense as to not respond to several polite requests for basic information, he's probably too dense to benefit from any advice we may offer. Running an engine on starting fluid and now experiencing a knock is another example of the underlying problem. I will not waste anymore time with "shickelgruber."
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Apologies to the dignant folks, I'm still acclimatizing to the quirky user interface & intend to fill out the specs.The darn captcha has intercepted & filtered several of my posts. Kudos to the gent who accurately inferred it is, indeed, a '75 450sl d-jet to which i refer.
Location currently irrelevant.
Further, considering the fact that "bjboys" hasn't offered an iota of expertise, only wasted readers time with defamatory, nonconstructive criticism on this thread, he will forthwith be marginalized as a superfluous fart in the wind.
Back to something of merit & significance:
Since this sled has below 100k mi. & has been hailed as a 500k mi. Engine of German steel, i doubt the knock is anything too deep or mechanical. Engine mount?
Thanks for any advice on reviving a dormant d-jet system.
(must-dos, likely culprits, cautions,etc..)
Location currently irrelevant.
Further, considering the fact that "bjboys" hasn't offered an iota of expertise, only wasted readers time with defamatory, nonconstructive criticism on this thread, he will forthwith be marginalized as a superfluous fart in the wind.
Back to something of merit & significance:
Since this sled has below 100k mi. & has been hailed as a 500k mi. Engine of German steel, i doubt the knock is anything too deep or mechanical. Engine mount?
Thanks for any advice on reviving a dormant d-jet system.
(must-dos, likely culprits, cautions,etc..)
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro 300sel5spd R+C107galore
Joined
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25,246 Posts
Do you have any specific questions?
( @ejboyd5 has been around vintage benz for quite some time, and writing a lot of what many of us were thinking. Please don't throw stones your first day in the playground.)
You may want to switch to the "full site" or "classic" version of the site. I don't use the newer skin / theme myself.
Now that we know you have a d-jet, you could read the information in the egv107 on d-jets. There's some great information there.
I'd suggest trying to figure out if you are going to bring this d-jet system back to life or not. There are several expensive components, and many people aren't willing to invest in making them run again. I personally collect spare d-jet parts and have at least one running d-jet 4.5 car on which I can test the various parts. Many of the parts like the manifold pressure sensor can be tested with a multimeter and a mightvac. The ECU and trigger points can be trickier to test.
You sound like you've provide. That the coil and starter are good and at least some of the cylinders have compression. We all assume that the d-jet fuel system is doing nothing if you aren't running the system off pressurized fuel. I have tested a few cars by disconnecting the supply and return fuel hoses from the tank lines in the engine bay, and with an auxiliary fuel pump and "tank" run the d-jet systems without having to clean out the entire tank and all the fuel lines. You might decide to do the same if you are already comfortable removing the fuel rails.
Again. Is there some assistance you are seeking?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
( @ejboyd5 has been around vintage benz for quite some time, and writing a lot of what many of us were thinking. Please don't throw stones your first day in the playground.)
You may want to switch to the "full site" or "classic" version of the site. I don't use the newer skin / theme myself.
Now that we know you have a d-jet, you could read the information in the egv107 on d-jets. There's some great information there.
I'd suggest trying to figure out if you are going to bring this d-jet system back to life or not. There are several expensive components, and many people aren't willing to invest in making them run again. I personally collect spare d-jet parts and have at least one running d-jet 4.5 car on which I can test the various parts. Many of the parts like the manifold pressure sensor can be tested with a multimeter and a mightvac. The ECU and trigger points can be trickier to test.
You sound like you've provide. That the coil and starter are good and at least some of the cylinders have compression. We all assume that the d-jet fuel system is doing nothing if you aren't running the system off pressurized fuel. I have tested a few cars by disconnecting the supply and return fuel hoses from the tank lines in the engine bay, and with an auxiliary fuel pump and "tank" run the d-jet systems without having to clean out the entire tank and all the fuel lines. You might decide to do the same if you are already comfortable removing the fuel rails.
Again. Is there some assistance you are seeking?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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10 Posts
Thx,Well said. I humbly concur.
I am hoping to resurrect the d-jet syst. With existing components. Unless there is a less expensive/ easier solution like a modern conversion? Or short cut, since im smog exempt in california.
I recently replaced the pressure sensor from a reliable used source. The ecu says "remanufactured" on it. The previous owner assured it ran when originally parked, though may have been tapered w. What do you mean by " trigger points"? Misc. Sensors?
Ill sleuth the encyclopedia to try to answer my own questions. Thanks for ur patience as im trying to conform to protocol.
I am hoping to resurrect the d-jet syst. With existing components. Unless there is a less expensive/ easier solution like a modern conversion? Or short cut, since im smog exempt in california.
I recently replaced the pressure sensor from a reliable used source. The ecu says "remanufactured" on it. The previous owner assured it ran when originally parked, though may have been tapered w. What do you mean by " trigger points"? Misc. Sensors?
Ill sleuth the encyclopedia to try to answer my own questions. Thanks for ur patience as im trying to conform to protocol.
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