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K, on my 2006 ml500 rear driver shock started to leak and so i need to change it. Have anybody been doing this job? Can anyone tell me : do i need to disassemble inside the trunk left panel to unscrew top portion of the shock or will i be able to unscrew the shock under the car?
 

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2009 ML320 Bluetec, 2013 Tesla Model S 85
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I too am interested in what is involved to replace the shocks. Will visit the dealer next week to pitch for all 4 replacement under warranty the last minute before warranty expires. No visible leaks, its just that it lands sideways after big bumps on interstate.

Then again if OE are like this after only 45k miles I'm not too sure I want another set of the same, even for free.
 

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1993 190E 2.6 and 2007 350 ML
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I have the same problem on a rear shock on my 2007 ML 350. After looking at the attachments, I also need to know if the two top bolts will easily come out or if we have to get behind to hold them.

Assume this leakage happened due to a 1000 mile vacation trip with passengers and luggage. The car seldom carries that much weight and since it only has 50,000 miles on it makes me think about trying another brand.

Of course the CPO warranty ran out in March. The total cost estimate from the local MB service advisor was $254 for the shock and $347.50 for labor, and probably more if they use rags.

I asked about changing them in pairs and there's no break in price. Also, if changed under warranty they both would be covered but since I was out of CPO coverage, I'm out of luck with that..

Going to check parts stores tomorrow, but on line best OEM price was around $168.00. My local independant German Import mechanic quoted OEM shocks at around $800 for both sides with parts and labor.

I use both places regularly, mostly for stuff I can't do, but this repair looks relatively easy..
 

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2009 ML320 Bluetec, 2013 Tesla Model S 85
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Assume this leakage happened due to a 1000 mile vacation trip with passengers and luggage. The car seldom carries that much weight and since it only has 50,000 miles on it makes me think about trying another brand.
I don't see leakage on mine, but they are not working. Prius drives better.

Of the aftermarket all I've found is Bilstein. Of Bilstein there seems to be two varieties: Heavy Duty and Comfort. Bilstein's advice seems to favor the HD shock as being their best but also offer a Comfort shock for those who want to replace with something as close to the original as possible. Seeing as how the original didn't last all that long I'm favoring HD.
 

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2006 ml 350
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2006 ml 350 with airmatic, 110 k miles//i bought all 4 /front & rear at Air Suspension Kits, Air Shocks, Suspension Parts, Struts - Arnott Industries piad my local guy $200 and he did all 4 / bags are better/lifetime warranty/ works great again/ now have issues with the power steering electric assist
 

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2009 ML320 Bluetec, 2013 Tesla Model S 85
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Rear Shocks - Adaptive / Airmatic

Driver's side, rear, leaking. Dealer offered to do them both for $2500. Looks like parts for the adaptive are about $350 rebuilt, each, or about $535 new, each, on Ebay. I found others for about $620 on the net, new, each.

This looks like a 1 to 2 hour job, each side. I'm guessing 2 to 3 hours total.
 

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When is needed to change shock absorbers?

Hi.

I have a 2007 MB ML350 with 130,000 kilometers, I had never changed any shock absorbers (since new), when I take it to change oil I always ask the indie to check if I need to change shock absorbers but he always told me that they are about to expire but looks still good, no need to change yet.

But, when I cross speed bumps I hear a grinding sound when car is damping, also I feel hard damping when crossing damping streets or off roads.

Do I really need to change fronts shock absorbers? if answer is yes, what do you think aftermarket quality shock absorbers like
New Mercedes Benz Shock Absorber Front W164 ML63 ML350 ML550 1643200130 | eBay
?

Thank you in advance
Regards.
xavier.
 

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2009 ML320 Bluetec, 2013 Tesla Model S 85
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At 50,000 miles my original shocks were sad. Truck rocked when crossing bumps in the road. Even passengers could feel a wheel airborne at low speeds over potholes. I have launched all 4 wheels airborne on interstate and landed pointed in a slightly different direction, while pulling a trailer.

The OE (Original Equipment) shocks are Bilstein "Comfort", the black ones you referenced. That makes Bilstein the OEM. Bilstein makes an "HD" shock in Bilstein yellow which they state it is their belief the HD is the one to make the vehicle drive and handle the way it should.

I don't believe anyone but Bilstein makes shocks for the W164.

Because I was so unhappy with the OE black shocks I replaced mine with HD. Am not overjoyed at the result. The vehicle is now safe to drive but every little loose trim panel inside now rattles. They were loose before but are more annoying now. The left and right access panels in the very rear are the worst culprits. My shocks probably need more break-in as they are stiffer the first few miles each day.
 

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Thank you for your reply.

Do you know when the specifications says we should change it?

I guess HD shocks feels more hard than comforts, my streets are full of potholes so I think I should probably go with comforts.

Regards.
xavier


At 50,000 miles my original shocks were sad. Truck rocked when crossing bumps in the road. Even passengers could feel a wheel airborne at low speeds over potholes. I have launched all 4 wheels airborne on interstate and landed pointed in a slightly different direction, while pulling a trailer.

The OE (Original Equipment) shocks are Bilstein "Comfort", the black ones you referenced. That makes Bilstein the OEM. Bilstein makes an "HD" shock in Bilstein yellow which they state it is their belief the HD is the one to make the vehicle drive and handle the way it should.

I don't believe anyone but Bilstein makes shocks for the W164.

Because I was so unhappy with the OE black shocks I replaced mine with HD. Am not overjoyed at the result. The vehicle is now safe to drive but every little loose trim panel inside now rattles. They were loose before but are more annoying now. The left and right access panels in the very rear are the worst culprits. My shocks probably need more break-in as they are stiffer the first few miles each day.
 

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2009 ML320 Bluetec, 2013 Tesla Model S 85
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Thank you for your reply.

Do you know when the specifications says we should change it?

I guess HD shocks feels more hard than comforts, my streets are full of potholes so I think I should probably go with comforts.

Regards.
xavier
Apparently the only "specification" the dealer goes by is whether oil is running out of the shocks. Mine were totally unsatisfactory yet perfectly clean.

If you don't like the way your shocks are performing, replace them. Otherwise leave well enough alone.

The HD's ride well but they don't absorb little cracks and things. They are fantastic over potholes.
 

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2006 C280
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Apparently the only "specification" the dealer goes by is whether oil is running out of the shocks. Mine were totally unsatisfactory yet perfectly clean.

If you don't like the way your shocks are performing, replace them. Otherwise leave well enough alone.

The HD's ride well but they don't absorb little cracks and things. They are fantastic over potholes.
Can you share the cost, model numbers and where purchased From?

Also, is yours 4matic?

Now that you've had them for a while, are you happy with the ride or you still feels they are too harsh?
 

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Can you share the cost, model numbers and where purchased From?

Also, is yours 4matic?

Now that you've had them for a while, are you happy with the ride or you still feels they are too harsh?
The Bilstein HD's continue to break in, getting better and better. Also helped that I spent an hour hunting down rattles and squeaks which bug the heck out of me. Also seems the ride is better after 20 minutes that fresh out of my driveway.

Bought 2 of these for the front, currently $235 each: Amazon.com: Bilstein Shock Absorber 4600 Series: Automotive

And 2 of these for the rear, currently $186 each: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L0Y3N0/

Then after chickening out on doing the installation myself the local dealer quoted $400 to install. Sadly didn't get that in writing as eventually it was over $900 labor including a wheel alignment. By this time I was in a sour mood and just wanted it done.

No, I do not have Airmatics. You have no choice there while with the coil springs you have choice between Comfort and HD.

One thing I debated a lot was whether to use lowering springs or not. What decided for "not" was that I do go off-road, I have scraped, and I do sometimes tow at near the vehicle's rated 7200 pound limit. So I decided not to mess with things. Not to risk problems with alignment. Camber on the rear wheels already worries me with 4500 pounds attached.

As to whether its too harsh or not, thats hard to say. Its worlds better than riding in a friend's Jeep Wrangler. Its not as nice as the air suspension on my Tesla Model S. With rattles and squeaks mostly silenced it is more than bearable. As I said previously the original "comfort" shocks (black Bilstein vs yellow Bilstein HD) was simply awful, dangerous, and unacceptable at 45,000 miles.
 

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That looks like a nice combo.
Been trying to figure out what to buy.
Called 3 tire stores for quotes and not one called me back.

The rears should be a piece of cake, are the fronts struts or just plain shocks?
Had a hair raising ride home last night on the California highways...wow...we got such
bad roads.
580 Altamont pass....yarrrrr
 

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The rears should be a piece of cake, are the fronts struts or just plain shocks?
Think they are coil-over both front and rear. Neither end is really a strut, no side loads on the shock.

A lot of interior trim has to be removed in the rear to get access to the top of the shock. Wheel liners have to be removed front and rear.

Thought of a mother comparison: With the shot shocks ride was worse than my (former) Prius but with the HD shocks ride is much better. Not as good as I remember a test drive in a W166. The first 1/8" of travel could be more compliant but after that its sweet and safe. It hits paint stripes on the road a bit harder than I believe it should. Than the W166. Than my Tesla Model S. But also the more I drive it the better the ride is getting to be.

With the original worn out shocks at only 46,000 miles I hit a pothole at 70 MPH on interstate towing 2 dirtbikes and landed pointed in a slightly different direction. At 35 MPH it was bad enough passengers could feel wheels airborne over certain potholes.
 

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rear is just shocks. front is a McPherson strut setup. meaning the spring is attached to the shock.

rear are pretty easy. if you have smaller hands and arms you can reach the upper mounts without removing the panels pretty easy. I do this. Not all that easy, but can be done. I am not a small person, but with bigger hands/arms, I reach them fine.
 

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Anyone have instructions to install rear shock/struts for 2007 Ml 350 4matic? I have coil spring suspension on front and rear. How hard is it for an amateur?

Thank you
 

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rear is just shocks. front is a McPherson strut setup. meaning the spring is attached to the shock.
A coil-over-shock is just that, it is not a McPherson strut.

A McPherson strut carries side loads replacing the upper suspension arm. The W164 front shock has a big stirrup for its lower pivot mount which can not carry side loads. It is not a McPherson strut.

A McPherson strut will mount rigidly to the hub carrier because it is this strut which maintains camber. A McPherson strut turns with steering input.
 
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