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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Hi guys,

Updating my progress. I bought an oil fluid extractor from Amazon and it worked like a charm...Purchased the Fuchs titan 4134 fluid and replaced the old fluid to its approved fluid level...Took it for a drive and same problem. Gear some times engages and sometimes not. Loud whining from transmission which i read is made by trans fluid pump. I have the iCarsoft i980 , so When the car gets into a problem the engine light comes on and pulls a code (ME SFI motor electronic) I clear it, drive it again and once around the block, i come to a stop, it downshifts to first gear then gets messed up, either spins without engaging or wont shift into second. Am I throwing good money after bad by buying the conductor plate kit? What if its the ME SFI control module? First guy I went to said I need a transmission rebuild. I dont think so. when it gets messed up i turn the car off wait a minute and then it works for a while until a few shifts... I'm at my wits end.
 

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Is it true that you can only erase dtc from transmission by plugging into 38 pin plug under the hood?
Does that mean i have to buy an adaptor for the icarsoft I980?
Thanka!
No there is no 38 pin plug under the hood. Icarsoft i980 works through the normal OBD2 port under the dash.
 

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Hi guys,

Updating my progress. I bought an oil fluid extractor from Amazon and it worked like a charm...Purchased the Fuchs titan 4134 fluid and replaced the old fluid to its approved fluid level...Took it for a drive and same problem. Gear some times engages and sometimes not. Loud whining from transmission which i read is made by trans fluid pump. I have the iCarsoft i980 , so When the car gets into a problem the engine light comes on and pulls a code (ME SFI motor electronic) I clear it, drive it again and once around the block, i come to a stop, it downshifts to first gear then gets messed up, either spins without engaging or wont shift into second. Am I throwing good money after bad by buying the conductor plate kit? What if its the ME SFI control module? First guy I went to said I need a transmission rebuild. I dont think so. when it gets messed up i turn the car off wait a minute and then it works for a while until a few shifts... I'm at my wits end.
You need to read and clear codes from the transmission module (EGS) not the engine. ME SFI is just the engine computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
You need to read and clear codes from the transmission module (EGS) not the engine. ME SFI is just the engine computer.

When i select my brand: BENZ model: c230 w203 it loads a list of 29 things, i get transmission/ME SFI motor/air bag/over head console etc etc etc...

when i select transmission and read the fault code it reads P0730 Incorrect gear ratio. i clear it, engine light still on... then i toggle down to ME SFI motor and clear that, then the engine light goes out. When i went to an independent mb service shop he had a more elaborate obd reader and said its not my conductor plate but that the transmission needs rebuilding, gears are slipping...

i found this diagram that shows that all these components are linked together.
 

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Just to be sure...this pin on the valve body does NOT connect on the yellow slide, right?...
Since i'm removing the valve body to change the conductor plate, might as well check the valve springs right?Question is: do i just remove the screws to detach the plate and pull out the springs, and once checked that everything is in one piece , put all back inside , or is there more to it?
Thanks guys , without your help i guess i would never try to do this myself 😛
 

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Discussion Starter #26
UPDATE: 2003 c230k 722.6 auto transmission...

I changed the Conductor plate, the plug, new fluid, new filter, o-rings and the car still up shifts hard between 2nd and 3rd gear? any ideas? thx
 

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Do yourself a favour and get someone with MB Star/Xentry or a pro level code reader to read the transmission codes. I have owned carsoft cheaper readers and they are not good enough.

Something you can do yourself is check all the solenoids. Check resistance and make sure they hold pressure too.

Sonnax makes a kit to fix hard shifting: https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2317-master-overlap-control-valve-sleeve-kit

The valve body can be pressure tested to find out if any valves are leaking. Special equipment. This is what it takes:

Or you can give up and just get a rebuilt valve body. Rock auto 700ish bux

Make sure to flush *all* the fluid, including the fluid in the torque converter.
 

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Just to be sure...this pin on the valve body does NOT connect on the yellow slide, right?...
Since i'm removing the valve body to change the conductor plate, might as well check the valve springs right?Question is: do i just remove the screws to detach the plate and pull out the springs, and once checked that everything is in one piece , put all back inside , or is there more to it?
Thanks guys , without your help i guess i would never try to do this myself 😛
Get the codes from a proper MB reader before jumping into it. Opening up the valve body is a big endeavor and if you dont need to do it, dont do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Get the codes from a proper MB reader before jumping into it. Opening up the valve body is a big endeavor and if you dont need to do it, dont do it.
Blackner,

Thank you for your advice and posts. with the icarsoft i980 I got a code: (P0730 incorrect gear ratio) i managed to clear it with the reader and after the car warms a bit the shifts smooth out, and I also noticed that if I drove the car a bit more aggressive, it would tend to shift a bit smoother...i was so upset when the mechanic gave me the car back and told me it still has a hard shift between 2nd and 3rd...I asked him if he checked the solenoids and he said that you told me just to change the conductor plate... oh my god...
 

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Blackner,

Thank you for your advice and posts. with the icarsoft i980 I got a code: (P0730 incorrect gear ratio) i managed to clear it with the reader and after the car warms a bit the shifts smooth out, and I also noticed that if I drove the car a bit more aggressive, it would tend to shift a bit smoother...i was so upset when the mechanic gave me the car back and told me it still has a hard shift between 2nd and 3rd...I asked him if he checked the solenoids and he said that you told me just to change the conductor plate... oh my god...
My 10 cent guess (and it is only worth 10 cents):

- one of the shift solenoids resistance might measure OK, but might be leaking under a pressure test (see video above)
- leaky or sticky valve in the valve body
- the sonnax shift kit helped mine in a similar situation (same as above)

After checking the solenoids, a valve body pressure test would really be the thing to determine where and how well it is shifting. Keep in mind a rebuilt sonnax valve body is only about $700.
 
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