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Every top motor mount I've done, you can remove bolt with fingers once it is broken loose.
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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Yep, although 15-20 years of vibrations, water, rust and oil do take their toll and make the bolt very much tighter than they're supposed to be.... Hence using stubby and then using prybar or a crowbar as leverage.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
thank you, I knew you mentioned that, just don't want to find myself stopped again!
I suspect that I am being over cautious but access is really bad on those top bolts and apparently they are quite long.
Technique wise was planning to have one hand on 16mm wrench holding it securely down
on bolt head to prevent slipping off and rounding it while cracking it loose. Sound about right?
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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You're overthinking it. Once the tool is on the bolt, then you just connect the extension bar onto the tool, then just break it loose. Little chance of rounding it off, if its crooked and you try to put pressure on it, it'll just come off. Possibly rounding it off is fairly low.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
yes I do that! originally tried to do this about a year ago, had some physical issues then making it extremely difficult, then tool too short issue
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Every top motor mount I've done, you can remove bolt with fingers once it is broken loose.
that is really good news, I definitely tend to overthink things as Deplore suggests, especially since was stopped by the special tool being to short. The car has less than 60K is nearly mint and has no rust issues and there is very little rust issue in Hawaii. So will not buy the racheting stubby. Thanks for taking the time to replay to my simple questions!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Progress, I received the Baum motor mount tool a couple days ago.
This morning put the car up securely up on jackstands and have 3 ton jack under oil pan with 2x6 between
to distribute the weight. I put the Baum wrench on 16mm hex head and attached a long 3/8" extension.
Then tried both a 3/8 breaker bar and a 1/2 breaker bar reduced to 3/8. So far no dice.
The weight of the 1/2 breaker bar makes it a bit unwieldy. Problem is looking up once on back.
Experience disorientation after only a couple minutes due to a horrid surgery post accident that never should have happened... Took some pics
 

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1999 E320, 2000 E320, 2003 E320 Wagon, 2005 C230K SS, 2010 Accord LX w Eibach & Koni FSD's
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Progress, I received the Baum motor mount tool a couple days ago.
This morning put the car up securely up on jackstands and have 3 ton jack under oil pan with 2x6 between
to distribute the weight. I put the Baum wrench on 16mm hex head and attached a long 3/8" extension.
Then tried both a 3/8 breaker bar and a 1/2 breaker bar reduced to 3/8. So far no dice.
The weight of the 1/2 breaker bar makes it a bit unwieldy. Problem is looking up once on back.
Experience disorientation after only a couple minutes due to a horrid surgery post accident that never should have happened... Took some pics
Do NOT jack up engine until bolts are removed or loosen! I prefer to jack up only the side where the mount is being removed.

Make sure you're turning in the correct direction. From underneath the car, that would be clockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Do NOT jack up engine until bolts are removed or loosen! I prefer to jack up only the side where the mount is being removed.

Make sure you're turning in the correct direction. From underneath the car, that would be clockwise.
Was not clear, only had the big jack with wood block snug against oil pan, for safety, was not jacking it.
I recall you mentioning placing the engine jack towards the side of mount replacement to roll the engine toward the opposite side, Thanks for that.

I may have not tried the right direction to crack it loose. I thought it was righty tighty (clockwise) and you are suggesting the opposite. Used to be better at this.
 

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I may have not tried the right direction to crack it loose. I thought it was righty tighty (clockwise) and you are suggesting the opposite. Used to be better at this.
If you're doing it from the top, it's counter clockwise. From underneath the car, it's the opposite.....so clockwise.

I always have to think twice about it when I'm doing it.
 

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Jack on oil pan is not needed for safety while unbolting the motor mounts. Any upward force will increase torque required to remove the bolts
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Jack on oil pan is not needed for safety while unbolting the motor mounts. Any upward force will increase torque required to remove the bolts
I am doing it from underneath, on the drivers side
So it appears that the direction is reversed if clockwise loosens the bolt.
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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Way I do it is to remove both 13mm bolts holding the motor mounts to the subframe from the bottom first, then climb back up and then use that special tool to break loose the bolt on the top of the motor mounts (both of them) THEN I use the floor jack to lift up the engine and play around with the motor mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I will follow your plan. What I am not at all sure about is which direction to turn the breaker bar since it
follows 2 ninety degree turns. I am doing this from below. 260E Cruiser suggests that turning the breaker should be to the right or clockwise. Trying to verify this?
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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If you're trying to undo the bolt on top of the MM and doing it from bottom, its counter clockwise. From the top, it's clockwise. Righty tighty lefty loosey.

EDIT:

Bolt, as seen from the top, is loosen by turning left, counter clockwise.
 

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EDIT:

Bolt, as seen from the top, is loosen by turning left, counter clockwise.
^^^^^This is correct. When viewing it FROM THE BOTTOM, the direction will be clockwise.

Take any object and view it from the top while turning it counter clockwise. Lift it over your head and view it from the bottom while still turning........the direction from the new perspective is NOW CLOCK WISE!
 

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Discussion Starter #37
That is most likely explains the problem I had yesterday

To complicate this further when looking up if the breaker bar is on the right side
one has to push to achieve the clockwise turn, but if bar is to the left one pulls

I am a shade tree mechanic but have managed to avoid stealerships for over 25 years.
Not very good at it but can follow directions and have decent resourceful means.

I thought yesterday I heard the snap of breaking the bolt loose, when I think I heard
it tightening. Will go at it again in few hours, thanks to all for the efforts.
 

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unless there's a backup pin in your ratchet type stands, please use something extra like blocks under the wheels...

there have been threads on just about every car forum i follow about a harbor freight recall on these type...
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Success!
Just finished the motor mount replacement job on '01 e430 RWD
It was not easy at all, and had the help of a helicopter mechanic with 30 years of wrenching to do
the heavy lifing.
Car was already jacked up and ready to go, just a matter of fitting the special 16mm wrench, extension, breaker bar. Had no problem with accessing the connections.
Clockwise turning from under the car to loosen, that bit is very important.

That top bolt definitely is poorly thought out by MB. I took photos. It's a shallow head bolt unlike the lower one which is easy. Access is blind, so the shallow head is really a big mistake in engineering.
See pics. It is easy to round it and that happened.
Helicopter mechanic noticed the bolt head issue after removal strongly suggesting a 12 point replacement that was longer in the head like the lower 13 mm bolt.

The upper bolt on drivers side has a heat shield to complicate replacement and an unusual key that fits into it on the mount. This complicates replacement, which is largely blind as restarting the 16mm bolt is a major pain although ultimately doable... took pics for posterity

thanks to everyone for all the help, job like this takes alot of prep, at least for a shade tree mechanic
still have the passenger side to do, but that can wait... looks even worse
 

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The upper bolt on my R129 is also a PITA to remove and IIRC had to get a stubby wrench from ebay to access it. In my case, particularly the right side, it was all the crap I had to move first.

Amazing for a part that has 3 bolts what a pain it is to replace isn't it? ;-)
 
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