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Discussion Starter #1
On E430 the 16mm offset tool (Amazon KTC) is about an inch to short to remove either R or L top bolt, since the other side of tool is not accessible. It is an odd L shape access using 3/8" extension and ratchet from below to crack it loose.

Don't see a viable solution except cutting the tool and splicing in a donor piece from suitable
chrome vanadium wrench. I do not have the 4 matic and other years or models of W210 are apparently different.

Any one done this job on the E430 an easier way?
 

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Measure the length of it and report back. I never had any issues with 320, 430 or 500 of any class vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Total length of the KTC tool is 4.25"
Friend who is seasoned helicopter mechanic verified it is not possible with this tool
as the length is inadequate. Cannot access the 3/8 side to attach extension to ratchet...
 

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I have used this in all variety of W210, W220, W163 and W203. It fits just fine. You may need to use a swivel adapter. If not, then a stubby ratcheting wrench or a regular stubby wrench may be required.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have used this in all variety of W210, W220, W163 and W203. It fits just fine. You may need to use a swivel adapter. If not, then a stubby ratcheting wrench or a regular stubby wrench may be required.
Do you have a source for the Baum tool? I think using it with a swivel would work.
 

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The other one is a 17mm -- what size is your bolt?

Can you use a stubby or regular wrench?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bummer mine is 16mm, ECS tuning has the Baum one, not sure about the size, will call today!

As I understand it, once the bolts are loose, have to jack up the engine from the oil pan protected with thick piece of wood, to get clearance to pull the mount out and replace it. Sound about right?
 

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I have a Koch. It's 4 3/4'' long. I've used it on four cars with M112 engines. Doable, but I wouldn't say it was easy. All you have to do is break the bolt loose, then it comes off easily with fingers. I've done it both from the top and bottom. I use an extension and ratchet.

Three of the cars I did were W210s. I found each car was slightly different. 2000 E320 was the easiest to do. The 2003 E320 Wagon was the hardest and the 1999 E320 was in the middle. All RWD. You would think they would all be the same!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
interesting, and thanks for chiming in! Very helpful
Just ordered the Baum tool Deplore uses, in the 16mm variant from ECS.
Pricey at $32 delivered to Hawaii, but totally necessary. The KTC tool is only 4.25" long
and most definitely will not work, and if I recall that extra half or 3/4" is the difference.
Should be able to have it done in a week or so depending on how long it takes to arrive...
 

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As I understand it, once the bolts are loose, have to jack up the engine from the oil pan protected with thick piece of wood, to get clearance to pull the mount out and replace it. Sound about right?
Read the Stickies on the procedure.

Don't forget to unbolt the transmission mount. It should be replaced at the same time.

I like to leave the bolts loose on the opposite side of the mount being removed. I then use a piece of 2" x 6" between the jack and oil pan near the side of the mount being removed. This way you're lifting and rolling the engine toward the opposite side. I think this method gives you more clearance and put less stress on the oil pan as you are not lifting the entire engine.
 

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One more thing, make sure the front wheels are off the ground!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Read the Stickies on the procedure.

Don't forget to unbolt the transmission mount. It should be replaced at the same time.

I like to leave the bolts loose on the opposite side of the mount being removed. I then use a piece of 2" x 6" between the jack and oil pan near the side of the mount being removed. This way you're lifting and rolling the engine toward the opposite side. I think this method gives you more clearance and put less stress on the oil pan as you are not lifting the entire engine.
Yes thank you for the reminder. I already did replace the trans mount, and it was straightforward easy job, hoping that that would solve the vibration at idle issue, needless to say it did not.
Upon closer inspection discovered the drivers side engine mount had leaked hydraulic fluid out, so clearly that was the problem, have the Lemforder mounts ready and will now go for it once the wrench arrives. Great tips highly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The other one is a 17mm -- what size is your bolt?

Can you use a stubby or regular wrench?
found the Baum tool in 16mm variant from ECS, and have ordered it, don't think a stubby has adequate leverage to crack it loose, mechanical advantage not great
 

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You use the stubby in conjunction with a large prybar or crowbar. Regular wrench or stubby, then use pry bar on the visible portion that sticks out.

Otherwise you'd need to be hulk to even have a chance. 😂
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Understood, although that is not a possibility in this case as there is no room to extend the stubby.
In any case have the wrench you use successfully on order. Will post back in a week or so hopefully after
job is completed. Do you happen to know on a 01 E430 if there are issues pulling the mount out once loose?
I realize there may be different considerations drivers vs passengers side.
It is the Drivers side that has leaked out hydraulic fluid although intend to do both sides.
 

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I heard the E430 is easier to do than an E320 as you do not have to unbolt the A/C compressor. You will have to fiddle with the mount to get it out though. You might have to unbolt any line clamps, grounding cable or heat shield that gets in the way.

The passenger side is easier to do. The starter is close by. Disconnect the battery if you want to be on the safe side. Have radio code?

Did your motor mounts come with silicone shields? If they did, get the mount into position before putting them on.
 

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E430 is a lot easier than E320 -- AC compressor or the rack and pinion removal and push aside is not required. Just jacking up the engine gives you plenty of room, but you'll need to be a good Tetris player to twist the old mount out, or twist the new one in.

Not difficult, or not as difficult and annoying as one on W220.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I get that its all about technique and good to know mine is the easier variant
I think I have enough intel to proceed intelligently now. Thanks to both of you guys!
Will attempt to take some decent pics and post a procedure for others coming this way...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Do you have a source for the Baum tool? I think using it with a swivel would work.
regarding the stubby ratchet wrench, I need 16mm and found a Gearwrench tool that swivels and is articulated

Question is whether Mercedes used Loctite on that top motor mount bolt threads making hand removal impossible once cracked loose.
Other gentleman seems to think not but thought to ask your opinion based on experience?
 
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