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2000 E320 Wagon 2002 CLK 320 Coupe
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Discussion Starter #1
Recently, sometimes the engine cranks but won't start. It goes through the full cranking period and stops cranking. When it does this, it will start on the 3rd crank. Also, once in while it takes longer to start than usual. No error codes from the reader. I have read that the first place to start is the fuel filter (filter has regulator in it?) and then maybe the fuel pump. The problem is intermittent so I don't have any idea how to troubleshoot. Any ideas out there?

I bought the car used with 50k miles, it now has 86k. Don't know the maintenance history except for the last 36k miles. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
 

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'99 E320 Wagon, ‘71 280SL, '97 SL500, '96 E300D, ’11 E350D
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69 Posts
might be the crankshaft position sensor(KPS), which does not throw a code.
 

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1999 E55, 2001 E320, 1990 560 SEC, 2004 ML350, 2001 ML55, 1995 S500, 1998 SL500, 2010 E550 Sport zoo
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A CPS going out usually signals with starting issues when the engine is warm, and then the sensor has to cool with the engine a bit before it gets right for starting.

If this is a cold engine issue, were there any unuusal dash warning lights ?

If not warm, and if no unusual dash warning lights, then you can cover some low cost basics air intake, fuel intake - most likely in the basics.

Buy a bottle of good injector cleaner (large bottle of Techron $13 or use the more affordable Lucas a couple of time $10 bottle good for 4-5 application) and after dumping that in (Techron one tank, Lucas two tanks) and after a couple more tanks of good gas to check for improvement.

Definitley do a air filter replacement which is horribly not done enought overall in California (with all the dust and road grit as compared to Germany). Order in b internet the OE Mann air filter rather than the lesser quality retail auto parts store non-Mann replacements.

You can consider a under $40 OE Bosch fuel filter replacement (not a retail auo parts store part) and check the stickies for a doable DIY 20 minute job on that.

No, you 99% do not have a fuel pump issue if this is the only symptom.

Often a issue like yours will not be solved like replacing a light bulb, but takes a bit of patient low-cost work on fuel and air, and then you will notice you have gone a week without the problem and you will be in the clear.

Keep the faith !
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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fab has some generally good info there, but I have to say on what you have described I too would replace the crank position sensor. Fifty bucks and 15 minutes work to replace a known troublemaker (DIY in the stickies). If that really isn't it you can back up to other things, but that is sure where I'd start.
 

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'99 E320 Wagon, ‘71 280SL, '97 SL500, '96 E300D, ’11 E350D
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69 Posts
I had the same symptoms with starting issues on a cold engine, and had to wait for it to warm up a bit before it would let me even engage gear without stalling. Fixed the crank pos sensor and it fixed it right away.
 

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2000 E320 Wagon 2002 CLK 320 Coupe
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Discussion Starter #6
fab has some generally good info there, but I have to say on what you have described I too would replace the crank position sensor. Fifty bucks and 15 minutes work to replace a known troublemaker (DIY in the stickies). If that really isn't it you can back up to other things, but that is sure where I'd start.
Thanks for the great ideas. This usually happens when the car is warm. For instance, running into a store for 10 minutes and when I come back to start the car is when this happens mostly. I will replace both the CPS and fuel filter. I have never changed either and I don't now if they have ever been changed.
 

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Thanks for the great ideas. This usually happens when the car is warm. For instance, running into a store for 10 minutes and when I come back to start the car is when this happens mostly. I will replace both the CPS and fuel filter. I have never changed either and I don't now if they have ever been changed.
Those added details would, I believe, have resulted in a very different response from Fab...those are *classic* symptoms for the M112/M113 CPS failure.

That said, at 86K the fuel filter is ready. Absent something very unusual it would not have been changed before you bought it, so yep, good idea anyway. Buy the funky little clip pliers to manipulate the clamps or buy new worm-gear style clamps if you're not a purist.

If you're not in a supreme hurry order the parts from autohausaz.com and pay a little extra for 2-day shipping, that will still be about 1/2 the dealer cost. That said, pull the clip on your CPS to confirm whether you have the one-or-two-clip design, that way you (1) know exactly what you need and (2) know that you can get to it. :D

Good luck!
 

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2000 E320 Wagon 2002 CLK 320 Coupe
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Discussion Starter #9
Those added details would, I believe, have resulted in a very different response from Fab...those are *classic* symptoms for the M112/M113 CPS failure.

That said, at 86K the fuel filter is ready. Absent something very unusual it would not have been changed before you bought it, so yep, good idea anyway. Buy the funky little clip pliers to manipulate the clamps or buy new worm-gear style clamps if you're not a purist.

If you're not in a supreme hurry order the parts from autohausaz.com and pay a little extra for 2-day shipping, that will still be about 1/2 the dealer cost. That said, pull the clip on your CPS to confirm whether you have the one-or-two-clip design, that way you (1) know exactly what you need and (2) know that you can get to it. :D

Good luck!
Thanks Greg and Fab. I will get the parts from autohausaz.com and let you all know the result. Thanks to everyone for the helpful responses. Obviously, I would have replaced the wrong parts and still had the problem.
 

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2000 Mercedes-Benz E320 4matic
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I agree that it is the CPS. I had this problem with my wifes car when I was test driving it a couple weeks ago. My wife and drove it 2 miles down the road and ran out of gas (they had it on empty and we didn't even make it to a gas station). So we walk in the snow storm, buy $10 plastic gas tank, walk back and fill it.... drive to gas station. It won't start then. 30 minutes laterter it's cooled down... it starts. Try to drive back to dealer... stalls out again and we're stuck on the freeway on ramp. Not happy now obviously.

I tell him I think it's the CPS based on the things I researched online... Dealer doesn't agree and thinks it is the fuel pump. He tows the car and orders the part, he takes it for a test drive and it does it again. He calls (I'm at having coffee down the street waiting... car was out of state) and says, ummm I think you were right... it is the CPS and we are going to get it from Mercedes dealer now.

Hasn't had any issues starting since then. Although it was annoying and almost scared me away from the car... I guess I was lucky that it did happen during the test drive. I got mine for free, and used the "experience" to negotiate the car down from $7,495 to $5,200! :)
 

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2000 E320 Wagon 2002 CLK 320 Coupe
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Discussion Starter #11
You were right

I replaced the CPS this past weekend and the problem has not happened again. Thanks to everyone for your help.
 

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2000 E320 Sedan
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2000 E320 cranks, but won't start

Hello, All
I have a 2000 E320 with over 205,000 miles in southern California. Car recently started hesitating and dying at stops. Now engine cranks, but won't start (it previously started if I let it sit overnight).

Codes shown are P010 (MAF-Mass Air Flow Sensor),
P0306, P0305. P0304, P0300 (misfires),
P0110 (IAT-Intake Air Temp Sensor) and
P0700 (Transmission).

Since earlier I was able to start using ether starting fluid, I replaced fuel filter. Ran fine for over 1,000 miles, then problem worsened.
I cleaned MAF (Thanks for DIY.) It started, ran better w/o hesitation about 10 min, then died again. (2nd ride home on tow truck.)

Suggestions appreciated (Crankshaft Position Sensor?)
Grey Eagle (7-16-2013) :(
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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Hello, All
I have a 2000 E320 with over 205,000 miles in southern California. Car recently started hesitating and dying at stops. Now engine cranks, but won't start (it previously started if I let it sit overnight).

Codes shown are P010 (MAF-Mass Air Flow Sensor),
P0306, P0305. P0304, P0300 (misfires),
P0110 (IAT-Intake Air Temp Sensor) and
P0700 (Transmission).

Since earlier I was able to start using ether starting fluid, I replaced fuel filter. Ran fine for over 1,000 miles, then problem worsened.
I cleaned MAF (Thanks for DIY.) It started, ran better w/o hesitation about 10 min, then died again. (2nd ride home on tow truck.)

Suggestions appreciated (Crankshaft Position Sensor?)
Grey Eagle (7-16-2013) :(
When malfunctioning, the MAF will cause multiple misfires.

The IAT is built into the MAF.

Everything you have there (except the P0700 generic transmission code) could be explained by a bad MAF.

Including your reported symptoms.

You don't mention if you have ever replaced the MAF, but if not, you're about 100K past due.

If I owned your car, that's where I'd start. Autohausaz.com has it for $144 with free shipping.

While you're waiting for it to show up, try some diagnostics for the transmission code. Pull the harness connector from the pilot bushing at the front/right of the transmission. If you get fluid running out, head to the dealer and buy a new pilot bushing. Also check the TCM for signs of fluid incursion, if you find them thoroughly clean it and the socket with electrical contact spray and reassemble after dry. For that code you'll need to have it cleared at a shop that can talk to the TCM, but that part can wait until after you replace the MAF. And if you haven't serviced the transmission in a long time, well, this is a good time to do that as well.

Good luck.
 

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2000 E320 Sedan
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When malfunctioning, the MAF will cause multiple misfires.

The IAT is built into the MAF.

Everything you have there (except the P0700 generic transmission code) could be explained by a bad MAF.

Including your reported symptoms.

You don't mention if you have ever replaced the MAF, but if not, you're about 100K past due.

If I owned your car, that's where I'd start. Autohausaz.com has it for $144 with free shipping.

While you're waiting for it to show up, try some diagnostics for the transmission code. Pull the harness connector from the pilot bushing at the front/right of the transmission. If you get fluid running out, head to the dealer and buy a new pilot bushing. Also check the TCM for signs of fluid incursion, if you find them thoroughly clean it and the socket with electrical contact spray and reassemble after dry. For that code you'll need to have it cleared at a shop that can talk to the TCM, but that part can wait until after you replace the MAF. And if you haven't serviced the transmission in a long time, well, this is a good time to do that as well.

Good luck.
Thanks, Check Codes.
I've only owned the car about a year.
Since no record of MAF replacement in service records I got with the car, I'll get the MAF and replace.
Transmission was serviced at least once. More details later as I follow up on that.
Thanks,
Jeff (aka. Grey Eagle)
 

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w123 ('81 240D) & w210.282 ('01 4matic wagon)
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A lot of posters have commented that the CPS could be the issue. I am noob, what is the CPS? Cam Shift Position Sensor?

Our 2001 e320 (w210 - estate) starts fine cold but, after driving somewhere and trying to start, it will crank but, won't start. This happens periodically and is not consistent about when it does it. If I wait another 10-20 minutes it will start.

I took it in and had the battery checked and Autozone said that battery was functioning at 96%. I assume that is good and left.

The last time it happened I got a check engine light. I got the codes red at Autozone:
- Bank 1 oxygen sensor 1 - p0130
- Bank 2 sensor 1 - p0150
- Cam shift position sensor - p0335
- Throttle position sensor - p0120

That being said, what do you guys think? I will start to search for a post on how to replace the Cam Shift Position Sensor - if somebody knows where it is I would appreciate the link.

Thanks
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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A lot of posters have commented that the CPS could be the issue. I am noob, what is the CPS? Cam Shift Position Sensor?

Our 2001 e320 (w210 - estate) starts fine cold but, after driving somewhere and trying to start, it will crank but, won't start. This happens periodically and is not consistent about when it does it. If I wait another 10-20 minutes it will start.

I took it in and had the battery checked and Autozone said that battery was functioning at 96%. I assume that is good and left.

The last time it happened I got a check engine light. I got the codes red at Autozone:
- Bank 1 oxygen sensor 1 - p0130
- Bank 2 sensor 1 - p0150
- Cam shift position sensor - p0335
- Throttle position sensor - p0120

That being said, what do you guys think? I will start to search for a post on how to replace the Cam Shift Position Sensor - if somebody knows where it is I would appreciate the link.

Thanks
The CPS is usually a misnomer, since it's typically used to refer to the Crank Position Sensor. Purists use KPS for the crank sensor and reserve CPS for the cam sensor (which is on the front of the bank 1 head).

The cam sensor rarely fails in these cars, but since you had a code for it, it's worth changing. That said, the symptom you're describing matches the crank sensor, and the added wrinkle is that the crank sensor on these cars rarely throws a code when it's acting flaky. Thus, I'd probably change the crank sensor too, since it's a known weak link.

I would also suggest that you simply buy your own code reader. The MS309 is like $20 at Amazon, a standalone unit, works great, fits under the seat so it's always handy.

If you're more than 100,000 miles, get the O2 sensors changed, that's their maintenance interval.

The TPS I would change only if you get symptoms from it as well, like a lack of throttle input. I would, however, do the adaptive shift reset covered in the stickies as that resets the TPS points, too.

Hope that helps.

Good luck.
 
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