Car still ran horribly after assembly, this was unexpected. Dousing the MAF with MAF cleaner did the trick, and the car just smogged well. Looking back, I am glad that the MAF acted, up, else I would not have seen all that water.
Ok, found the answer here: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1507344-help-removing-n10-1-module-2.html#post4046396
First leave the metal lever alone.
The grey connector - the visible part is a sliding locking mechanism. Slide it up. Then back out the connector.
Then lift the metal...
My car has been sitting for a couple weeks, and started it up the other day, ran horribly. high idle, bucking. So left it parked, as was busy this week.
Tonight got some time in the garage and recalled folks that had trans fluid in the ecu etc, well I have water and corrosion.
I removed most...
And I have a W210 picked up at 184k miles - mind its our first Mercedes - and my wife loves it! That was almost 6 years ago. I just fixed a loose solder joint tonight and while the abs plastic is getting brittle, the car is doing quite well. I do wish for a W140 still - but would have to sell...
Yes - the broken solder joint was the problem. The codes turned off (since battery was disconnected during the work) and when I parked the car, brake lights still worked. This part is pretty unrepairable, so I felt lucky the one solder joint that broke is the only one accessible.
So the work to repair this took a couple hours and glad I have a garage now to work near..
Flux was absolutely needed to make this work - once the flux was on the solder joint, a few seconds of heat
My ETS/ABS light has been on, and kept on seeing "El Traction" message also - then my friend told me brake lights were not working - agh!!
I replaced the BLS - no fix, no brake lights.. Arg. This could be a time/cash sink.
So I went to a local indy shop in San Jose (Star Auto) for a diag -...
I had another issue - took to shop (indy) and they said a wire was loose - wiggling the brake fuse made it work. So after some discovery, removed the headlight switch module and found the solder joint was cracked - luckily it was accessible to solder and that fixed it for me. Also the codes...
My car had 184k WHEN I BOUGHT IT. Like others have said - keep the fluids tip-top, do the boring maint. items, find/fix any weaknesses and dependinf on how hard you are on it, it should serve you for years to come. Mind you it also depends on your commitment to the car. My car needed a new...
Late update - the fan pulley on one side sheared off and the noise was the "washer" from the pulley rubbing on the cooler behind it (AC?). There is a nice circle.
The cheapo unit from amazon ($106 shipped) was easy to install and working so far. Today dealing with possible dead fuel pump.
Talk of timing - we had to take a emergency trip to Victorville last night. I am thankful to God that the thermostat failed when it did. Engine temp was fine all the way down yesterday and driving around today. Also got 26.5 MPG - 70MPH with AC on.
Changed the thermostat - that fixed it. Test drive with ac cranked and 3000 rpm in second - could not get car above 90. Fan air, radiator, lower hose was warm as it should be - where it was not yesterday. Never had a stuck thermostat before. Btw the old one was made in Germany and getting it...
Off, the clutch turns 1/2 turn unless spun hard - that got one turn. Alos re aux fans were running- but noisy as Noted before. I'll check the fan clutch with car running. would be great to make it serviceable - thanks for the link.