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    1. · Outstanding Contributor W221 Moderator
      2010 E350 P1/P2, 2008 S550 Designo, 2002 ML320
      2,661 Posts
      I agree with everything in this video, also I found a set of ICON stubby metric ratcheting wrenches that includes a 16mm for the top bolt, saves a ton of time once the top bolt is loosened with the special tool shown.

      In order to support the engine, Mercedes specifies a lifting device that rests on the fender tops and front cross member. I found this one works well and I've used it to replace two sets of engine mounts on my W221 and a set on my W212.

      As the guy in the video says, you really need to be able to get enough clearance to get the new mounts in. BTW, there's no way you'd catch me doing this in cold of winter outside. Might be a good call to take it to your Indy for the engine mount swap.
    1. · Outstanding Contributor W221 Moderator
      2010 E350 P1/P2, 2008 S550 Designo, 2002 ML320
      2,661 Posts
      Given the difficulty in finding DIY information on this, I'll document this as best I can for the forum.
      Thank you Jack! I replaced mine a few months back, just cannot seem to find enough time for the documentation part (pics, details, etc.)

      My lessons learned (2008 S550 2WD);

      *** These mounts are full of liquid, when removing them keep your face out from under them or you will get 'moisturized'!
      - I used the Harbor Freight engine support bar, not a professional quality tool but it works, just take care where you set the feet. (
      - The drivers' (Left in the US) side mount can be removed from the front, just need to use a pry bar to wedge the engine over toward the passenger's side.
      - The passenger's side mount is much more easily removed toward the rear if you detach the sway bar mount at the body frame and swivel the sway bar down
      - This is the first Mercedes I've owned where the mount tool seems to actually make a difference. (Example of the tool here -- not my listing, just an example.
      - Tap out the holes in the new mounts with the correct thread prior to installing them. I had one that was burred a bit and it took me an hour of fiddling with trying to get the top bolt in before I figured it out. I removed it, tapped it and had it back in the car and bolted in place within 10min.
    1. · Premium Member
      1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
      14,558 Posts
      Thanks John!

      Folks, can anyone confirm weight of the iron cast M117 4,5L engine? The cross bar I plan to get is 500kg so should be plenty, that said better safe than sorry 🤔😅
      M120 engine with all accessories and fan, no air cleaners = 666.7 Lb
      M117 Engine with all accessories, fan and air cleaner = 514.9Lb
      M113 Engine with accessories and fan no air cleaner = 413 Lb
      722.6 Trans with dipstick and converter less fluid = 169Lb.
      722.4 Trans with converter, without dipstick less fluid = 146.5 Lb.

      I don't have the iron block weights but it should be just the weight difference between and AL bare block and an iron bare block. I would assume 600Lb total. I use a 1000Lb from harbor freight for my M120.

    1. · Registered
      2002 S500; 1995 E320 Cab
      68 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #1 ·
      Anyone (besides
      ) have experience with this? Going to do the motor mounts à la Fried Chicken and methinks this looks like a good improvement (if not supplement) vs the typical "block of wood under the tranny pan" method.

      I have the M113 and the (rare but oh-so-lovely) ABC in my car.
    1. · Registered
      '85 380SL (155Kmiles), '82 240D stick, '80 300SD, '77 240D, '89 BMW 535i, 3 VW Diesels, 2 Triumphs
      1,553 Posts
      I just bought one of these from Harbor Freight for about $50 after 20% off coupon.

      1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar

      I have a pressing need for one on a VW, but eventually I can see myself pulling the (good 560SL) subframe I have on our 380SL to completely rebuild it. And, perhaps change the lower timing chain guides.

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