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    1. · Registered
      '89 300TE, '79 450SL, '01 ML320
      1,051 Posts
      That's too big, 10nm is only 7.3 foot pounds. Try a 1/4 inch drive, they measure in inch pounds.
      The biggest problem with using a torque wrench at the lower end of the scale is
      that it's very hard to feel the 'click'

      10nm is 88 inch pounds Michigan Industrial Tools 1/4" Drive Click Torque Wrench 20 - 200" lb: Home Improvement

      or, same thing here
      1/4" Drive Click Stop Torque Wrench

      As with any click style torque wrench, return it to it's lowest setting before storing, this is an absolute must with these cheap Taiwan jobs ;)

    1. · Registered
      1997 S500V, 1999 S500 grand edition, 2006 s65 amg
      7,370 Posts
      I didn't have time to work on it today but did take a quick look and they seem to have firmed up a bit. I guess the O-rings have swollen up ;-)


      Tom S.
      No problem, I used a harbor freight torque wrench. from my first post i actually walked one street away to get into my w140's trunk to see what brand the torque wrench was and it turns out i got it for $12 at harbor freight it was a 1/4 torque wrench.

      1/4" Torque Wrench - 20-200 in. lbs.

      not a bad tool considering its very cheap and has a lifetime warranty. I actually use it to lug now with a 17mm socket better then the mercedes wrench. if you want the best torque wrench here is the link

      Hazet 7291 2ETAC Electronic Torque Wrench with Built in Angle Gauge System 70 | eBay
    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      9,043 Posts
      Okay Frozen,

      This is how I do it, and other may bark at it... Others may say but the very best !!! The tool does not make you. Your knowledge makes you, and over time as you get better you will know what " tools" are needed to do a job. I say "tools" it is a battery of tools-hand tools, pneumatic, electric, home made, software, and internet.. I use all of them to be successful, and through these tools you will amplify your knowledge as the tools will multifaceted from all directions, and not end up being a "parts changer" not a technician...

      Some like to go to flea markets. I just do not do that. It is not my cup of tea. Some like to troll the flea markets, and some will buy Hazet, Snap On, Mack, Proto, and etc... That is all fine and dandy...I love pocket my money for great trips. I love to go flying(and that is not cheap). For me Harbor Freight and Craftsman are perfect for me... I will buy a few high end tools for a particular tool.. When I rebuild transmissions. I make my tools-Their is no magic in the work of transmissions.....

      Here is a list with links and notes

      The magic sizes in sockets and wrenches are 8, 10,11,13,15,17,& 19. I like to have multiple sets.


      Metric Ratcheting Combo Wrench Set - 7 Piece

      Fully Polished Metric Combination Wrench Set 9 Pc

      11 Piece Metric Highly Polished Long Handle Combination Wrench Set

      7 Piece Metric Stubby Ratcheting Combo Wrench Set


      High Visibility 3/8 in. Drive Metric Deep Wall Socket 10 Pc

      High Visibility 3/8 in. Drive Metric Socket Set 10 Pc

      Having a 1/4 SAE has got me out of jams...

      High Visibility 1/4 in. Drive SAE Deep Wall Socket 10 Pc

      High Visibility 1/4 in. Drive Metric Deep Wall Socket 10 Pc

      Mercedes like to use these weird spline bolts here in there, so you donot want to be caught with out a Spline-Socket set.

      7 Piece 3/8" Metric Spline Socket Set

      Extensions of all lengths- I like just plain straight ones:

      4 Piece 3/8" Drive Impact Extension Set

      1/4 in., 3/8 in., 1/2 in. Drive Wobble Socket Extensions 9 Pc


      3/8 in. Drive Heavy Duty Quick Release Ratchet

      3/8" Heavy Duty Flexible Ratchet

      1/4" Heavy Duty Composite Ratchet

      1/4" Quick Release Swivel Head Ratchet

      3/8" Drive Speeder Handle

      Piece Universal Joint Set

      3/8 in. Drive 17 in. Breaker Bar

      4 Piece High Visibility Socket Adapter Set

      A must have:

      3/8 in. Drive Metric Hex Bit Socket Set 6 Pc

      Torx set get it at sears

      Screw drivers:

      Screwdriver Set 22 Pc

      Always have one of these:

      4-in-1 Screwdriver with TPR Handle

      I use this set religiously

      26 Piece Ratchet Screwdriver Set

      For what I do, This electric impact is excellent for big bolts AKA suspension.. Excellent to remove bolts:

      Electric Impact Wrench - 1/2"

      Sockets to go along....

      1/2 in. Drive Metric Deep Wall Impact Socket Set 13 Pc

      Piece 1/2 in. Drive Impact Extension Set

      1/2 in. Drive Metric Impact Hex Driver Set 8 Pc

      Need a jack.. get a 3 ton?

      3 ton Low Profile Steel Heavy Duty Floor Jack with Rapid Pump®

      A couple of jack stands..

      3 Ton Jack Stands - Heavy Duty Jack Stands for Cars and Trucks

      Wheel Chucks

      Need to block your tires. get a minimum of two, but four would be safer..

      Rubber Wheel Chock with Eyebolt

      Car ramps,

      I like the plastic ones over the metal ones, and I like these

      RhinoGear 12,000 Pound Automotive Ramp | Product Details | Pep Boys

      Specialized tools:

      Torque wrenches. Nothing like a SnapOn, but they are BIG bucks, yet the harbor freight ones will work

      1/4" Torque Wrench - 20-200 in. lbs.

      3/8" Drive Click Type Torque Wrench

      1/2" Torque Wrench

      For door panels and PSE fittings

      5 Piece Auto Trim and Molding Tool Set

      Ahh the pry bar....Cure all tool-Must for everything....

      4 Piece Heavy Duty Pry Bar Set

      The cure all tool:

      2-1/2 Lb. Neon Orange Dead Blow Hammer

      16 oz. Ball Pein Hammer


      8 Piece Pin Punch Set

      12 Piece Industrial Punch and Chisel Set


      Pliers Set 5 Pc

      My favorite size:

      16 in. Professional Groove Joint Pliers

      Vice grips:

      10" Curved Jaw Locking Pliers


      4 Piece Professional Adjustable Wrenches

      Always got to cut something....

      7" Professional Diagonal Pliers

      Long pliers:

      8" Needle Nose Pliers

      11 In. Straight & 90° Angle Long Reach Pliers 2 Pc

      Some hex and torx sets:

      Pack of 3 Folding Star Bit and SAE/Metric Hex Keys

      Metric Hex Wrench System 9 Pc

      These should get you going...You will need a spring compressor, ball joint tool, and a bushing tool(or making one)

      All the best,

    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      9,043 Posts
    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      9,043 Posts
      I'm no more of a expert than everyone else, but these pan gaskets are better a little loose than a little tight.. Now I do rebuild these transmissions. I tighten these bolts in about three to four stages(first around 2Nm, then 4Nm, then 6Nm, and then 8Nm) in a cross pattern. Then I do the side bolts. I do wipe the mating surfaces with denatured alcohol, but the alcohol will not cure your problem...

      The torque value is 8Nm which is 71 INCH pounds!! It will be a 1/4 drive torque wrench!! Buy one at harbor freight for twenty bucks!

      1/4" Torque Wrench - 20-200 in. lbs.

      I know one can do it with out the torque wrench, and I have done it. My guess is you are leaking from the circular connector. You may need to replace it with a factory connector. Drain your fluid on a new container, so you can re use the oil, and buy a Genuine Mercedes circular connector of ebay.

      Mercedes Transmission Plug Wire Harness Connector Adapter Genuine OE 722 6xx | eBay

      This is how it is changed...Lube the new seal with a little fluid. Again, only torque the center nut to 2.5Nm - it is very little or you will strip you conductor plate. Then you are screwed, and need to replace the conductor plate.

      See attachment too..

      All the best, Let us know what you find?



    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      9,043 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
      Tools for the rebuild

      Tools for the rebuild :

      The tools required are kinda basic tools, and it is a TOTAL FALLACY that they are EXPENSIVE to do the job, yet what is needed is some weird tools that are not very expensive.

      I do suggest on buying some of the specialized ones as it will make life much easier by hours it will save.

      1) The basics of metric six-point 3/8" drive sockets with some long and short extensions. Some 1/4" drive sockets with long extension. Torx socket bits. Oh those flat screw drivers-The technician type are better over the mechanic's type. One would think you need a snap-ring set. The only real part that uses a snap-ring tool is the rear bearing. The snap-ring retains the bearing, and is not necessary to remove it :wink. Pry bars-small and large.

      2) Torque wrenches are required !! We cannot fly with "good n tight" approach, but one can use the cheapy Harbor Freight ones available here in the USA:

      1/4" Drive

      3/8" Drive

      Torque wrench conversion chart - super handy to have is below

      3) Pick set.

      I would get two as they are cheap:

      Or get one jumbo set?

      4) Feeler gauge-large bladed style not those little ones, or the spark plug wire type

      5) Metric Vernier caliper-get a metal one as the plastic ones are changing in size as you are working with them. The Harbor Freight one is good for this work.

      A good Japanese one maybe $50 bucks

      NOW, If it has depth plunger rod on the back-end of a vernier, and the vernier is 250mm to 300mm then a separate depth vernier is not needed. Then something like this will work:

      I use something like this for my depth measurements:

      6) For all trannies you need some assembly lube. I use the blue stuff. This NOT grease, or wheel bearing grease. The grease everyone is used too is to lubricate, but it swells rubber o-rings too :crying . I will destroy these seals.

      This "Assembly Lube" is very tacky, and does provide a level of lubrication/sealing on start-up for transmissions.

      On the old trannies(722.3-722.5) it holds in the teflon o-rings on the shaft perfectly, so they do not get crushed on assembly, and on 722.6 it holds in some loose bearings and bearing caps :thumbsup:

      7) loctite, I do not use the "run of the mill automotive type" . Their are many flavors, and types !! One wants a high temperature type with high vibration for oily conditions(so it better not be the NSF type for food ). Loctite 270 or Loctite 272

      8) The tool that saves the day is the friction clutch compressor. Worth it's weight in gold. A must have versus using plumbing pipe couplings...

      Many on ebay for under $50

      The 722.6 rebuild tool looks something like this:

      But you need this to make it complete:

      I have both types, and I still use the $30 fleabay version

      9) The Harbor Freight scissor jack is worth it for the money.

      10) A round punch set is worth it's weight to remove the two copper bushing bearings

      11) Small inside bearing puller is worth it to remove the K2 bearing(bushing or bearing). It is the large one used in the kit. Harbor Freight sold something like this. It is called "Blind hole inner bearing puller"

      12) 30mm 12 point deep socket to remove the nut from the yoke in the rear, and the nut one needs a impact to remove the nut as one needs to break the staked edge off the nut

      13) You will need a 27mm 6 point standard socket with like a 3" extension on 1/2" drive with a ratchet, but a breaker bar will work fine too. All this is used for is to turn the big harmonic balancer nut CLOCKWISE !!!! Do not go counterclockwise as you could break the engine chain guides(you will hear that crunch-done it at the junk yard :grin ) which most are plastic except for one. This is all needed to expose the three-sets of 13mm torque converter bolts.

      Hope this helps,



    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      9,043 Posts
      Hey, Martin, thanks for your help again.
      Just now, shit happened. I thought the 7mm should go down a little more because fault code indicated that the connector plate is not connected and also the plug looked not enough down as long as I remember compared with previous one. So I tightened a little more.
      Then the 7mm screw broke and bottom part of the screw stayed inside. So stupid of me!!!!!
      I guessed I have to look inside and dropped the tranny fluid pan out to drain the entire fluid first. Now I am waiting until all the fluid drops down to floor container.
      Am I going into horrible mess now? What will be the best way to handle from this on? I became panicky.
      Panicky-Sorry bud-but MAVA does not compute on that one??? - Like I'm afraid of being under the car??? No compute, sorry....

      Post 81 HAS it ALL The first link has everything you ever wanted to know about the process of changing the conductor plate, and below the second link I MENTIONED you will need a torque wrench????? Everything related to any MB transmissions is TORQUED to a specification. YOU must follow the guidelines.

      Again, the FIRST link on post 81 has all the data-If you do not like to read, It is POST4 Pictures 5 and 6

      ALL of those pictures in POST4 have torque values. You really need to follow them as you CANNOT go by what it felt like...

      Like I said, buy YOURSELF a small torque wrench-buy this 1/4"

      It will read in inch-pounds you will need to convert to Newton-Meters(Nm)...

      Inch-pounds Force to Newton Meters | Kyle's Converter

      The same is true for solenoids and valve body-MUST BE TORQUED....

      Who in "F" goes by what the bolt felt like :rolleyes: It just does not work this way with trannies as all the materials a different. The aluminum is super-soft.

      Whatever happens to the valve body/conductor plate it has to come out. No saving it while it is all connected, BUT(I MEAN a BIG_ASS BUT).........if the connector is still connected, cannot come out the way it needs to come-out. Then you will need to rip-out the conductor plate when drop the valve body. The connector will break, and bits of black plastic will be everywhere, and of course you bought-your self a new conductor plate.. no other way.....

      Now, if the conductor plate comes out clean, the head of the threaded stud is still in. You may try to save it by going in with some medium needle-nose pliers, and try to get the stud out, but the moment you get the stud with the threaded brass ferrule-YOU BOUGHT YOUR SELF A NEW CONDUCTOR PLATE.. If you break one of the pins inside, YOU BOUGHT YOUR SELF A NEW CONDUCTOR PLATE

      Then again, if the speed sensors look like the picture below(with cracks or blisters :nerd), YOU NEED TO BUY A NEW CONDUCTOR PLATE.

      I cannot say anything else...:crying

      All the info is on post 81 on the first link :crying

      Martin :crying
    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      9,043 Posts
      I thought I'd see what kind of recommendations you all might have for a tool kit to keep in your trunk.

      The idea being something small enough to store (in my case, in one of the side hatches of my wagon) that would be available to fix most anything. So that I can venture out in my high mileage W210 and have a little confidence that with cell phone service to this forum, and a few tools, perhaps an Uber ride to the parts store, that I could fix most anything.

      I thought about getting a small tool kit but pretty much everything out there has a lot of unnecessary tools included. The goal here would be to have nothing superfluous. This is something to keep in the car, so it needs to stow away nicely, too, and not be too large.

      What would you carry?

      How old is the conductor plate?

      Carry a Spare with some ramps, and a new connector with a four-gallon jug Valvoline Max-Life ATF. With a 1/4" Harbor Freight torque wrench with some up/down socket adapters...

      I do not carry e-sockets. I just do it with SAE sockets, and a CPS can be done with a 6-point 5/16" on a 10" extension. I used a 1/4" drive.

      Not a pair of gloves, but the box :grin 5mil Harbor Freight Nitrile work great.,f,EAFeatured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=gloves

      I do carry extra conductor plate, but I carry even a valvebody with solenoids from a junk yard transmission as I'm at 200k miles.

      A friend of mine went from Florida to Chicago to Phoenix, and to Washington State, and on the way back he lost the conductor plate with a black regulation solenoid.

      If you are over 100k miles, I would do that..

      I carry MB Star too..

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