Tools for the rebuild
Tools for the rebuild :
The tools required are kinda basic tools, and it is a TOTAL FALLACY that they are EXPENSIVE to do the job, yet what is needed is some weird tools that are not very expensive.
I do suggest on buying some of the specialized ones as it will make life much easier by hours it will save.
1) The basics of metric six-point 3/8" drive sockets with some long and short extensions. Some 1/4" drive sockets with long extension. Torx socket bits. Oh those flat screw drivers-The technician type are better over the mechanic's type. One would think you need a snap-ring set. The only real part that uses a snap-ring tool is the rear bearing. The snap-ring retains the bearing, and is not necessary to remove it :wink. Pry bars-small and large.
2) Torque wrenches are required !! We cannot fly with "good n tight" approach, but one can use the cheapy Harbor Freight ones available here in the USA:
Torque wrench conversion chart - super handy to have is below
3) Pick set.
I would get two as they are cheap:
Or get one jumbo set?
4) Feeler gauge-large bladed style not those little ones, or the spark plug wire type
5) Metric Vernier caliper-get a metal one as the plastic ones are changing in size as you are working with them. The Harbor Freight one is good for this work.
A good Japanese one maybe $50 bucks
NOW, If it has depth plunger rod on the back-end of a vernier, and the vernier is 250mm to 300mm then a separate depth vernier is not needed. Then something like this will work:
I use something like this for my depth measurements:
6) For all trannies you need some assembly lube. I use the blue stuff. This NOT grease, or wheel bearing grease. The grease everyone is used too is to lubricate, but it swells rubber o-rings too :crying . I will destroy these seals.
This "Assembly Lube" is very tacky, and does provide a level of lubrication/sealing on start-up for transmissions.
On the old trannies(722.3-722.5) it holds in the teflon o-rings on the shaft perfectly, so they do not get crushed on assembly, and on 722.6 it holds in some loose bearings and bearing caps :thumbsup:
7) loctite, I do not use the "run of the mill automotive type" . Their are many flavors, and types !! One wants a high temperature type with high vibration for oily conditions(so it better not be the NSF type for food ). Loctite 270 or Loctite 272
8) The tool that saves the day is the friction clutch compressor. Worth it's weight in gold. A must have versus using plumbing pipe couplings...
Many on ebay for under $50
The 722.6 rebuild tool looks something like this:
But you need this to make it complete:
I have both types, and I still use the $30 fleabay version
9) The Harbor Freight scissor jack is worth it for the money.
10) A round punch set is worth it's weight to remove the two copper bushing bearings
11) Small inside bearing puller is worth it to remove the K2 bearing(bushing or bearing). It is the large one used in the kit. Harbor Freight sold something like this. It is called "Blind hole inner bearing puller"
12) 30mm 12 point deep socket to remove the nut from the yoke in the rear, and the nut one needs a impact to remove the nut as one needs to break the staked edge off the nut
13) You will need a 27mm 6 point standard socket with like a 3" extension on 1/2" drive with a ratchet, but a breaker bar will work fine too. All this is used for is to turn the big harmonic balancer nut CLOCKWISE
!!!! Do not
go counterclockwise as you could break the engine chain guides(you will hear that crunch-done it at the junk yard :grin ) which most are plastic except for one. This is all needed to expose the three-sets of 13mm torque converter bolts.
Hope this helps,