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    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      Joined
      ·
      8,980 Posts
      Hi All,
      Thanks again to all of you who responded with advice and tips.

      I did get the ICM replaced, and it did NOT solve the issue.

      By the way, the previous owner had just recently replaced the Crank Position Sensor within the past month.

      I had read in another thread that replacing both caps and rotors solved the issue after replacing thousands of parts hadn't worked.

      So, I pulled them off, and they looked pretty bad, so I replaced both caps and rotors as well as the rotor mounts.

      Voila, problem solved. It's been running great since and starts up every time now, warm or cold.

      I'm still baffled as to why replacing the caps and rotors solved a warm start issue, but am very happy that problem is solved.

      Now, on to the next issue...
      You are welcome, but all you had to do is use a worn sanding drum, and clean the contacts to shine-up the brass, and for the center. The rotor I use a stone bit on a dremil, or some moto-tool like it. The last time I did this(a month or so) At the moment I had the very cheap(I say very cheap). Harbor Freight unit which worked terrific. I would imagine one can do this two to three times before the gap get wider, but who knows it may be done more times..

      Rotary Tool Kit - 80 Piece Set

      Martin
       
    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      Joined
      ·
      8,980 Posts
      RGP,

      It is an old thread, but the #1 thing to do is clean you caps and rotors with a worn sanding drum with a Dremil Motor tool and file. Shine up the metal inside, but not too aggressively. You can buy the cheapy HarborFreight unit just dull-up the sanding drum on the concrete.

      https://www.harborfreight.com/rotary-tool-kit-80-pc-63235.html

      One can do this several times for the 92-95 distributor cars.

      Martin
       
    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      Joined
      ·
      8,980 Posts
      Patrick,

      Inspect your front and rear flex disks for hairline cracks as the the hill climb of the Grapevine on HWY 5 may exacerbate any flaw by a chronic vibration because of the long steep climb. Also, if you take HWY58 through Barstow may cause the problem too, inspect those with a magnifier and a flash light.

      Next, I would inspect the drivers transmission lead-out hose. The line is steel out of the transmission, but from the front of the engine to the back of the radiator is a rubber hose with a coiled spring, so it does not kink over the entire one-foot hose. I believe you can pull back the spring over the hose, and feel how hard it is, yet you may not pull back the on some hoses, but you can test the hardness with a screw driver. If it is hard replace that sucker like ASAP. The return line will be always softer as that line will always have cooler fluid due to the transmission fluid already passed through the radiator cooler.
      You break that exit rubber line on the highway, and in a matter of few minutes you will destroy that tranny..

      On these old distributor cars, this is me. I would always carry a cheapy dremil motor tool along with a cheap 12v to 120v inverter. Carry a small file set along with some 220 grit sandpaper. Do not forget the screw driver to take the distributor cap, and the hex wrench or socket hex bit with a extension and ratchet to get the rotor off to clean it. The weather now is cold/wet/misty and snowy now. With the dremil tool use a worn sanding drum, so it is not so abrasive, and you can wear-out the drum on a rock or on the highway road.

      https://www.harborfreight.com/rotary-tool-kit-80-pc-63235.html

      Take your pick from a $19 to $40 inverters. I have one of the $40 dollar units

      https://www.harborfreight.com/catal...,f,EAFeatured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=inverter

      Forgo the inverter and the cheap corded motor tool, and get a cordless tool. Just remember to charge it before your trip...

      https://www.harborfreight.com/96-volt-cordless-variable-speed-rotary-tool-kit-63234.html

      I'd carry about two long spark plug wires if you develop a mis-fire you can change the wires on the fly. Get some from the junk yard.

      Along with the wires, get a cheapy volt/ohm meter, so you can test the ohms of ignition wires encase of a misfire, or test the battery voltage at the battery to see if you get a alternator failure as a battery charging will be in the 13v - 14v or so at the battery with the engine running.

      https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63604.html


      I always travel with air gauge and a compressor in every car... I have one of these:

      https://www.harborfreight.com/12v-100-psi-high-volume-air-compressor-69284.html

      I always carry patches too for nail and screw punctures(I carry solutions to fix my problems instead of being stuck in some town)....

      https://www.harborfreight.com/tubeless-tire-repair-kit-9-pc-62611.html

      Carry gloves, and extra fuses. If you blow the front cigarette lighter fuse on these distributor W140's is tied to the security module of the car that it will not permit you to start the car. Been there done that... Inflate your tires with your new air pump with the rear door cigarette jacks.

      If you ever experience a no start on these cars, always check your fuses first. Your car has two ignition coils, and each has a fuse of 10Amp or 7.5amp, so have those fuses. I carry a sandwich zip-lock bag full of fuses from the junk yard cars from the times I have gone to the junk yards.

      Carry tools, carry an adjustable wrench to remove the front hex cap on front of the fuel rail to test if the system is pressurized by pressing the shrader-valve to see if the fuel squirts out with force...

      I would carry a four wire temperature at the front top of the intake as you loose that sensor and your M119 will not start. Get a new one or one from a junk car... That sensor can be changed once the car has cooled, or you will have to drain the radiator to relive the pressure to replace it hot.

      Next, either carry the diluted coolant you use, or just carry a gallon or two of distilled water from the grocery store. Put the gallon in a bucket, or carry it in the new plastic grocery bags we buy in Kalifornia as those one gallon jugs are prone to leakage real easy on the road.

      Always have a flashlight near you. Understand, that the weather is real cold around the base of the Grapevine grade right now, and yesterday the Highway Patrol was escorting waves of cars due ice and snow, so understand they can close it then you will be asked to detour toward Barstow(Hwy58) or Santa Maria (Hwy166 to Hwy 101). Been there done that, and it added 6hrs to the trip through Santa Maria. Carry a blanket. Carry snacks that can replace a meal, and water to drink... I'd say carry chains, but is a risk you need to take. They may not let you through if you do not carry chains. For chains most do not know how to install them, so that is risk too.. Been there done that too... They let me through because they saw I had chains once, so your call...

      Lastly, That straight bypass hose from the thermostat top housing to the intake manifold make sure it is not all white with a small crust where the hose touches metal. Replace the hose, but one needs to scrape all that corrosion on the neck of where the hose attaches to the metal. Go over the hose clamps too.

      Ahh one last thing, I carry a infrared laser thermometer, so I can point it at the thermostat housing encase you loose that temperature gauge on the road as loosing this gauge on the road can make you a nervous-wreck, but pointing the laser to the thermostat housing and reading 85C to 90C can qualify everything is working okay if the car starts to get hot turn on the heaters to high with the fans to high too. That can cool around 5 degrees....

      I carry one of these:

      https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-pocket-thermometer-93983.html

      With the 722.3 tranny at 65 to 70mph you will average 22mpg along with that. I would become a Costco Warehouse member as the fuel is over priced all over the highways. Fillup in your area. It will take 1/2 to 2/3rds tank to make it to Costco in Bakersfield of Hwy99 of Rosedale exit of Costco is to the right off the freeway.The gas station takes only ATM no credit. They close at 9:30M-F, 8pm on Sat, and 7:30PM on Sun...Stop to eat and go to the restroom as the the Costco restrooms are super clean. I look up all the Costco's on all my trips. Can save about $10 bucks per fill ups, so sign up to costco and plan your trip according and time the Costco closing times too...

      https://www.costco.com/warehouse-locations/bakersfield-ca-688.html

      I have been doing these trips for 30 years, and you can get to costco from Hwy 5 by taking the HWY46(Wasco/Lost hills) it will get you to Hwy99 from Hwy 5. Hwy 46 is past Kettleman City.

      https://www.google.com/maps/search/is+hwy+5+open+at+the+grapevine/@35.8185233,-119.8258789,10z

      Sounds like a lot, but this is how I travel.....

      Martin
       
    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      Joined
      ·
      8,980 Posts
      Hi. I bought a 95 sl500 with 59,000ml from auction. It sad the car strats, when it came in i t.f wount start. The engine wires were corroded badly so i changed the wires (from 93 w140).. i chaked the spark plugs, compression, fuel, all good.. but it still turns but it wont start... plz halp

      Davy,

      Welcome to the forum.. Thank you for your post...

      I'm surprised no one has chimed in like this has not occurred here. Where are all the geniuses know-it-all's...

      Okay,

      A)The fuel rail at the front has a hex-cap unplug it, and after a few key cycles you should get fuel to spray-out by pressing the sharader valve, It should not dribble out.

      B) If the plugs are wet again, you may need to clean them, or replace the plug.

      C) You are able to lock and unlock the car with the key, or use the infrared remote, but the remote may only work at night, but it needs to lock and unlock...

      D) The possible culprit is the four-wire temperature sensor at the top front of the intake manifold. You loose that sensor, and a no start occurs on these V8's. You can swap it with a W140 V8.

      E) What you did with the harness I have done the same, and drove like that for a while on my 93, so I know it works... Now make sure you plugged-in the coaxial connection on the harness as that goes to the engine timing sensor or ignition module, so you lose that connection, and you have nothing.

      F) You cleaned the distributor caps and rotors with a worn sanding drum using a Dremil tool, or the cheap Harbor Freight Moto tool:
      https://www.harborfreight.com/rotary-tool-kit-80-pc-63235.html

      Hope this helps,

      Martin
       
    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      Joined
      ·
      8,980 Posts
      The crank position is a good guess, but before one throws money and parts. One should always clean the distributor caps and rotors with a worn sanding drum using a Dremil tool, or equivalent. You can buy a Harbor Freight knock-off for $10:

      https://www.harborfreight.com/rotary-tool-kit-80-pc-63235.html

      Wear down one sanding drum on the concrete, so it is not so aggressive, and you want to shine-up the contacts lightly as you can only perform this several times in the life of the distributor cap and rotor before the gaps are too wide, but this will save you some money from buying a cap and rotor....

      Let us know what happens?

      Next easy cheap thing is the four-wire temperature sensor at the front/top of the intake near the small straight bypass hose. You loose this four wire temp sensor and the car will not start-Very overlooked sensor.

      The crank sensor can be ten minute job, but i have heard stories of it being a 24hr job or more.

      w140 Rear Crank Position Sensor / RnR nightmare - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

      http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1541905-m119-crankshaft-position-sensor-r-r.html

      The EZL-Rare, but this part is big-bucks. For now with the EZL is change out the thermal grease as it is cracked and hard by now, but you want to use the American thermal compound not the cheap Chinese stuff for PC's. GC Electronics has a 1oz tube that may be enough, and you may find it at your local Computer/Consumer Electronics store(not Best Buy). Maybe you have a Fry's Electronics in your area, or any electronic component(Resistor/Capacitor/Transistor) parts store

      https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?LH_..._nkw=GC+electronics+heat+sink&_sacat=0&_oac=1

      Clean off all the old stuff-ALL OF IT..... Clean both surfaces with a solvent, so it is shiny smooth. Apply the paste to both surfaces. Do wear gloves when cleaning and applying the paste. To much defeats the purpose as thermal compound as it is their to fill the irregularities of the metals, and to CONDUCT the heat of the EZL to the Metal..

      I hope all it is a dirty distributor caps..

      All the best,

      Martin
       
    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      Joined
      ·
      8,980 Posts
      I know these car pretty good, so this is my opinion.

      The stalling is probably caused the moisture/sticky slime in the distributor caps, yet in some parts of the US that see a deep season change have to clean the caps twice a year. Consequently, the easy thing people do is replace the rotors and the distributor caps, but one can spend upwards of $300-$500 USD for a complete set, so it may not be economically practical when some cleaning with 200 grit or so sandpaper will do, yet the rotor has to be removed. I do it with a hobbyist moto-tool and worn small sanding drum like this:

      Rotary Tool Kit - 80 Piece Set

      The 92-94 cars suffer from wiring problems to, and the injector harness on these cars just came with defective wire, and you will be able to see it from pulling back the black vinyl insulation on the wire bundle at the front of the engine, or the ground brown wire at the center of the intake manifold passenger side above the valve cover. If the wires cracked, you will need a whole harness-New the harness is $1000, but on fleabay they are $100.

      The throttle body is known for bad wires too. That is a little hard to determine without taking it out of the car, and it can be rewired too, and many guys do it too, but in doing so you may rip the rubber holding ring that connects the MAF sensor to the throttle body. The vacuum plumbing at the top of the engine may break-off too if the black rubber is rock hard.

      We are all fans of these cars, and that is why we are here. The value. They are in the gutter. We drive them because we feel secure in them, and we love the ride. No other car drives like these cars...

      Welcome to the forum, and enjoy your car...

      All the best,

      Martin
       
    1. · Moderator
      93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
      Joined
      ·
      8,980 Posts
      JB weld is the way to go. The normal stuff-Red&White tube and Black&White tube.

      Get your self a cheap 11 dollar dremel from harbor freight. With a large sanding drum lightly scuff the outside of the gear along the crack, so the glue has the ability to grab. Next, very important. Clean the gear with Denatured Alcohol from the home center, NOT RUBBING ALCOHOL !!!!

      Rotary Tool Kit - 80 Piece Set

      Let the part dry for minimum of 24hrs once you apply JB weld, and lightly grind with the Dremel tool to remove excess glue. If you are missing a tooth or two, JB weld will work...PICK-UP a small Jewelers file set at Harbor Freight.

      Use a small wide rubber band(go to the office store, and mixed bag of rubber bands for a dollar or two) or two around the gear with thin plastic grocery bag to hold it together as it cures...If you need too.. Do a dry run with the rubber band(s)

      Mix the glue for two minutes on plastic surface..Appy glue on the joint, and apply a 1/4 to 3/8 thin bead on the outside...

      Best of luck,

      MArtin
       

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