R Class Rear Suspension Air Bag Replacement - Page 14 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #131 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 08:10 AM
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Great thread all, I just came off of my CPO(133K) on my 2010 with rear airmatic. The driver side started dropping 2 weeks ago. I ordered and Arnott and dropped it in(yes the easiest part change of my life). The bag filled but the car did not level. I assumed it may be a computer issue. As i do not have star software, I decided to drain the passenger side, hoping for a reset, what a mistake, it was nearly impossible to get the fitting to reseat properly, I ended up having to take the wheel off and compress the bag, allowing me to twist it and finally got a good setting. Well, the bag still dropped(new). I walked away for the night. Yesterday I came back to the forum and read some more. I swapped the airlines at the block and the problem persist. However, I by chance had left the hood open, when the car was shutdown and the compressor not running, I heard a hissss. I followed the airline back and wouldn't you know, I had a small hole in the airline. You all may want to check this spot and put some tape on it, the hole was about 6" from the firewall where the lines head into the passenger side of the car(the hole was on the underside of the hose right under the fender seam). They were near 3 other lines and right on the underside of the fender tucked in. I am not sure if this was caused by abrasion or what.... As it was Sunday and we live very rural, I had no options for a fitting or alike, I opt to coat the affected area with Super glue, let it dry thoroughly, then wrapped it with electrical tape. I will pick up some fittings in case this fails, but if It holds, I will likely leave it as it was a small pin hole. It has now been 24 hours and the car is holding steady, perhaps better than ever. I thought I would share this as I can see this happening to others as well I am not sure that I saw this come up on any other posts. The good news is that I now have a spare bag when one fails..... Has anyone tried the airline repair kits on Ebay, they have a push fitting on one side and the brass on the other side, looks like you would cut the line, insert it and replace from the affected area to the block(in my case)?
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post #132 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Seacoaster View Post
Great thread all, I just came off of my CPO(133K) on my 2010 with rear airmatic. The driver side started dropping 2 weeks ago. I ordered and Arnott and dropped it in(yes the easiest part change of my life). The bag filled but the car did not level. I assumed it may be a computer issue. As i do not have star software, I decided to drain the passenger side, hoping for a reset, what a mistake, it was nearly impossible to get the fitting to reseat properly, I ended up having to take the wheel off and compress the bag, allowing me to twist it and finally got a good setting. Well, the bag still dropped(new). I walked away for the night. Yesterday I came back to the forum and read some more. I swapped the airlines at the block and the problem persist. However, I by chance had left the hood open, when the car was shutdown and the compressor not running, I heard a hissss. I followed the airline back and wouldn't you know, I had a small hole in the airline. You all may want to check this spot and put some tape on it, the hole was about 6" from the firewall where the lines head into the passenger side of the car(the hole was on the underside of the hose right under the fender seam). They were near 3 other lines and right on the underside of the fender tucked in. I am not sure if this was caused by abrasion or what.... As it was Sunday and we live very rural, I had no options for a fitting or alike, I opt to coat the affected area with Super glue, let it dry thoroughly, then wrapped it with electrical tape. I will pick up some fittings in case this fails, but if It holds, I will likely leave it as it was a small pin hole. It has now been 24 hours and the car is holding steady, perhaps better than ever. I thought I would share this as I can see this happening to others as well I am not sure that I saw this come up on any other posts. The good news is that I now have a spare bag when one fails..... Has anyone tried the airline repair kits on Ebay, they have a push fitting on one side and the brass on the other side, looks like you would cut the line, insert it and replace from the affected area to the block(in my case)?
As a side note, when I removed the fitting to bleed the good bag, the O ring on the fitting disintegrated, I used the O ring off the side that I had replaced with the arnott bag. I put a bit of lube on it, then removed and put it on the other side, saving my @ss from a big headache.
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post #133 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 08:32 AM
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I've given up.

One air spring, one solenoid valve, two level sensors and the thing still won't stay up. It won't even rise on its own.

You can hotwire the solenoid valve by removing it from its mounting on the compressor frame and disconnecting the wiring harness / plug. You use very small alligator clips (one of which must be insulted to prevent shorts), some electrical wires and a 9-volt battery. The middle pin of the three is the common or ground, the outer two operate the solenoids to pull the "shuttle" inside the valve body left or right to allow air to pass to the left and right air bag respectively. Hotwire the solenoid valve AND the compressor, and you can get the car to rise, but only one side at a time. But if you have a leak it's only temporary, and I don't believe the solenoid valve is 100% air tight either, even when new. You can only get one side to rise at a time, so getting the car level is a bit hit and miss.

Oh, the o-ring on the brass fittings is a standard #9 o-ring. About 10 cents a go from Autozone or wherever.

I have bitten the bullet and ordered a coil spring conversion from Strutmasters.com. $599 plus shipping. That includes new coil springs, new shocks, and all the other parts that go with them, plus instructions (they say) on how to prevent the suspension warning coming up on the dash. I can live with the warning if not.

I hope to recoup most of that cost by selling on the compressor, air springs, solenoid valve, and possibly the level sensors. I'm not sure if the level sensors can be removed once the coil spring kit is fitted, however, as their presence may be necessary to stop the electronics from shutting the car down to stop further damage to the (now no longer there) air suspension.

We've had a coil spring conversion on our Landrover Discovery for well over a decade. You barely notice the difference in ride quality and since we never load the thing up with scrap iron, any ride height adjustment isn't really needed.

The parts have made it to Houston, but UPS has shut down deliveries until TS Harvey and the resulting flooding subside. Fingers crossed they arrive by Wednesday so we can still go to Aspen for the holiday weekend.

"Semper In excretio, solum profundum variat" - unknown
They called me mad, and I called them mad, and damn them, they outvoted me" - Nathaniel Lee
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post #134 of 139 (permalink) Old 10-29-2018, 09:36 PM
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OK guys, I have a 2008 R350 with rear air suspension only....... does anyone have a diagram of where the air lines run? I replaced the rear air springs with arnott (no issues), but there is still a slow leak (over night). I did the bubble spray, nothing around any of the fittings or on the visible lines. My thought is I have a leak in one of the lines. I need to know how to gain access to check them.
Thank you all!!!!
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post #135 of 139 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 01:32 AM
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If you have a pinhole leak in one of the air lines between the solenoid valve and the air springs it will be a pig of a job to find. I didn't even bother trying. Even if you find which line is causing the leak, tracing the air line path through the chassis will another pig of a job.

Before you do that you could try replacing the solenoid valve by the compressor but it could be another couple of hundred down the toilet.

At that point I gave up and went for the coil spring conversion. 70K miles mostly Uber driving and still going strong.

"Semper In excretio, solum profundum variat" - unknown
They called me mad, and I called them mad, and damn them, they outvoted me" - Nathaniel Lee
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post #136 of 139 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 10:38 AM
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I have '08 R350 with air springs in the rear only. The rear driver side started losing air a few weeks ago and I replaced it with Arnott A-2597 2 days ago. Then after I replaced the driver side the rear passenger side somehow was now a couple inches too high. I assumed the passenger side was too high because it was overcompensating for the previously low rear driver side. So, I let air out of the passenger side hoping to reset it but now it will not fill up much at all (I don't hear any leaks). I guess I just need to buy another Arnott bag for the passenger side now?
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post #137 of 139 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 10:41 AM
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The rear driver side started losing air a few weeks ago and I replaced it with Arnott A-2597 2 days ago. Then after I replaced the driver side the rear passenger side somehow was now a couple inches too high. I assumed the passenger side was too high because it was overcompensating for the previously low rear driver side. So, I let air out of the passenger side hoping to reset it but now it will not fill up much at all (I don't hear any leaks). I guess I just need to buy another Arnott bag for the passenger side now?

I have '08 R350 with air springs in the rear only. Thanks
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post #138 of 139 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 09:44 AM
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"Oh, the o-ring on the brass fittings is a standard #9 o-ring. About 10 cents a go from Autozone or wherever."

I've replaced both bags and one has been leaking at that fitting. Installing the original fitting with original o-ring didn't work. can you kindly elaborate on the #9 o-ring, please. Thanks.
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post #139 of 139 (permalink) Old 01-21-2019, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by dragonflyer View Post
"Oh, the o-ring on the brass fittings is a standard #9 o-ring. About 10 cents a go from Autozone or wherever."

I've replaced both bags and one has been leaking at that fitting. Installing the original fitting with original o-ring didn't work. can you kindly elaborate on the #9 o-ring, please. Thanks.
Just FYI: the brass fitting is a 10 mm hex. The #9 o-ring OD = 5/8", ID = 7/16". There is no way the #9 is a correct o-ring size for this application.
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