Weird cables under lighter box - Page 4 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #31 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Have you ruled out that perhaps the light only comes on when the sensors sense darkness or the headlights are on, and perhaps it is not on or dark enough when you are testing it? Perhaps the way that it is wired only supplies voltage when certain conditions are met. I believe that the power socket will not supply power when the ignition is off. I also think that bulb will not light up unless the radio buttons and interior dash lights up.

Also, the light does not have to be bright, as it lights up a plastic ring around the powersocket. Just enough so that you know where the powersocket is in the dark.
. I am doing all the job at the dark and ignition is on when checking light.
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post #32 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 03:42 PM
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OK, if the fuse is fine, and the W37 is not corroded, then most likely the blue/grey middle wire is shorted.

Try this:
Ring the brown wire to ground point
Ring the green/black wire to fuse 37
Check the voltage on the power socket (cigar lighter)
If it shows correct values (about 14.3V when ignition is on, and about 12.6V, when off), then at least you know your power socket is okay.
Check the impedance between the blue/grey middle wire and the brown wire.
I suspect it might be negligible ...

If that's the case, it is shorted somewhere. If no other 58d consumers are affected, i.e. all instrument lights and ambient lights function correctly, then I would suggest cutting it off of the middle pin, isolating it properly and linking the green/black pin with the blue/grey pin. You light will be on permanently (so again, get an LED bulb), but it will do the job.

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post #33 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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OK, if the fuse is fine, and the W37 is not corroded, then most likely the blue/grey middle wire is shorted.

Try this:
Ring the brown wire to ground point
Ring the green/black wire to fuse 37
Check the voltage on the power socket (cigar lighter)
If it shows correct values (about 14.3V when ignition is on, and about 12.6V, when off), then at least you know your power socket is okay.
Check the impedance between the blue/grey middle wire and the brown wire.
I suspect it might be negligible ...

If that's the case, it is shorted somewhere. If no other 58d consumers are affected, i.e. all instrument lights and ambient lights function correctly, then I would suggest cutting it off of the middle pin, isolating it properly and linking the green/black pin with the blue/grey pin. You light will be on permanently (so again, get an LED bulb), but it will do the job.
Will try that tomorrow. But I dont get you about ringing wires, idk what to do. All instrument lights, ambient, etc. are fine.
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post #34 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 06:30 PM
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Will try that tomorrow. But I dont get you about ringing wires, idk what to do. All instrument lights, ambient, etc. are fine.
It's a continuity test with a multimeter, between the two points - by using a setting on the dial (if present) to beep ("ring") when it's effectively 0Ω.

Here's a couple of pics from iFixit



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post #35 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MB•David View Post
It's a continuity test with a multimeter, between the two points - by using a setting on the dial (if present) to beep ("ring") when it's effectively 0Ω.

Here's a couple of pics from iFixit



Aha, i understand you now. I have used that tool earlier.
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post #36 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 04:42 AM Thread Starter
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I have finished job. Wires have rang so they are ok, voltage is ok. I cut out middle wire and connected it to green/black and it is working now. Light is much brighter than earlier. Thank you very much David.
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post #37 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 07:59 AM
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Just make sure those lights turn off when everything else is off. I'm not following this thread carefully, but you want to make sure those lights aren't on a constant on (always supplied voltage).

edit: Although not a high consumption item, overnight it may or may not drain the battery.
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post #38 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 08:09 AM
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Excellent!

I still like LEDs better

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post #39 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by pfsantos View Post
Just make sure those lights turn off when everything else is off. I'm not following this thread carefully, but you want to make sure those lights aren't on a constant on (always supplied voltage).

edit: Although not a high consumption item, overnight it may or may not drain the battery.
A very valid warning

The front power socket is on terminal 15R, via fuse 38, so it will stay on, as long as the key is in, and door is not open, after ignition off (will turn off after 5 minutes, if I'm not mistaken), so it's okay - I have mine wired the same way.

Now, anything on circuit 30 will indeed drain the battery rather quickly.

Here's a WIS fuse chart for W245, which, unlike the consumer version leaflet in the battery compartment, shows exact use, wire colour and circuit / terminal a particular fuse is on. I find it so useful, I have a printed copy in the car, and a pdf version in my head unit (and on my iPhone, of course).

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post #40 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Just make sure those lights turn off when everything else is off. I'm not following this thread carefully, but you want to make sure those lights aren't on a constant on (always supplied voltage).

edit: Although not a high consumption item, overnight it may or may not drain the battery.
It's only workking when ignition is on.
Ps. I'll buy LED bulb.
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