Changing clutch - OMG for real! Not easy! - Page 4 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #31 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch slave cylinder bleeding. 9 mm wrench

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post #32 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 10:22 AM
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I've noticed that I have to have a helper (my dear wife) in the car to pull the clutch back up at each pump while bleeding this. She presses down (with a piece of wood behind the pedal to not go too deep), I open and let some fluid out and close, and she then pulls the pedal back up to the top position...."repeat" a few times as required..

Did you have a similar experience..?
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post #33 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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You need either a vacuum bleeder (at the bleeder) or a pressure bleeder at the master cylinder cap otherwise. The pressure bleeder has the added feature of keeping the reservoir topped up and all you do is open the bleeder and close when you stop seeing bubbles. I guess you have to make sure the pressure bleeder doesn't empty, but it holds a LOT of fluid.

Got one as a present early this year, may try it out for the first time.

https://www.amazon.ca/Motive-Product...51780138&psc=1
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post #34 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 06:56 AM
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I did use my Motive pressure bleeder (photos here in another posting..and same as you show in the above link..) but the pedal still would not return to the up position without being pulled back up. It worked fine ..and just took a few extra steps to complete the clutch slave bleed.
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post #35 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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You shouldn't have to push the pedal down, as far as I understand it. The circuit should be open between the reservoir, master, and slave cylinders. When you push on the pedal, you close off the circuit from the reservoir to the slave, so you're cutting off the pressure bleader doing its work.

With the pressure bleeding, the tool is acting like you pushing the pedal. So really a one-man (or woman) operation - no need for anyone inside the car.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I just re-read the instructions for the Motive pressure bleeder last night.

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post #36 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 10:43 AM
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Old school...I just thought that it would be better to make sure that the bleed was complete and all fluid was changed out including whatever the pedal would move through the system....and then out at the bleeder.

Naturally all works perfectly well. The trick is to make sure that rear of the fluid tank "and the separate fluid compartments" DO NOT run low as you perform the bleed..
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post #37 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 04:13 AM Thread Starter
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A quick update...

Car is on its wheels and on the road again! Started right up on the first try. Didn't let it run too long the first few times (drivebelt not on = no water pump). Once the drivebelt was on, let it warm up and had to top up the coolant a couple times. Have taken it for a few progressively longer drives (a few minutes long), just to confirm everything is fine. At the alignment shop now. Gonna hopefully drive it for a couple weeks to make sure all is ok, then recharge the AC.

Clutch is good, no noise. No alternator/tensioner/idler noises. So far, so good!

Oh yeah, almost forgot. I had pulled out the steering shaft too far and messed up the alignment with the top half of the shaft (they're splined). So last evening I had to pull the airbag and steering wheel off and center it (with the wheels straight) and align the steering angle sensor. This is not a fun job (working with the airbag and the steering wheel bolt is SO tight!).
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post #38 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 04:20 AM Thread Starter
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Pics. (first one is before I topped up coolant btw)

The center portion of the steering wheel is held on by two torx screws on each side. Don't look for round openings at the back of the steering wheel - they are behind small, narrow slots. A little misleading. Then the steering wheel bolt is a hex (forgot size). It's hard to turn, I'm guessing 80 ft-lb...just a guess. It has a dab of blue loctite (it looks like) on it.
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post #39 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 06:26 AM
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Nice to see that this "project" is so close to completion...You must be very happy...(finally..)

Amazing bit of work !!
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post #40 of 45 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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So after fixing the steering wheel position to as close as possible to where it should be the computer showed no Faults with the ESP or steering angle sensor. Took it for an alignment no issues.
Not so lucky with the air conditioning system. Even though I tried to be careful disconnecting the condenser it looks like it wasn't making a seal at the connection to the line or to the receiver drier. AC shop actually said my aftermarket receiver drier was the issue because of the size of the fittings. I have to take everything with a grain of salt since I don't know for sure but just be careful ever working on the system and disconnecting lines. Obviously make sure that the system is empty before disconnecting. So the shop fix whatever leaks it had and tested the system Under Pressure then vacuumed then recharged it so the AC is good now. Cost me way too much than I'm willing to admit here. I still save money compared to having a shop do everything but not as much as I was hoping to and not worth it probably considering the work I put in. Maybe some lessons learned for others here.
Car drives and feels great, though.

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