Replace the Boot instead of whole Control Arm - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Wink Replace the Boot instead of whole Control Arm

Hello,
I'm new here. I love Mercedes and DIY, so I record first video for DIY with Mercedes. Any comment are welcome.
My Mercedes S550 (W221) ball joint boot was broken. That's located at the front lower rear control arm. It is necessary to replace the entire control arm according to the requirements of Mercedes-Benz, (If don't replace the boot may lead to wear the ball joint with long time). So they only sell the entire control arm. , the cost should be $300 for the genuine control arm, plus $100 for an alignment, amount costs should be $400 exclude labor. I found the damaged boot timely, so I decided to look for an alternative boot and replace it. The boot cost only $12 from Amazon.
Here is the video
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the finished photo.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 07:06 PM
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 08:59 PM
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Hah! I did the exact same thing today after hearing a squeak from that same ball joint on the driver's side. I think the recent rains caused the issue. I was debating getting the replacement control arm on Amazon, but decided to take it apart this afternoon. My boot had disintegrated and no grease was in the ball joint, causing the squeaking. After throughly greasing the ball joint, I dug around in my garage and found a rubber brake pedal bellow to my '56 Oldsmobile, cut to size, reused the spring clamps and it works like a charm.

Now I find this post after the fact and see you can get the boot from Amazon. (Why didn't I think of that! Ugh!) Time to do the passenger side!
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1986 Maserati 425
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for replay 😄
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagpilot View Post
Hah! I did the exact same thing today after hearing a squeak from that same ball joint on the driver's side. I think the recent rains caused the issue. I was debating getting the replacement control arm on Amazon, but decided to take it apart this afternoon. My boot had disintegrated and no grease was in the ball joint, causing the squeaking. After throughly greasing the ball joint, I dug around in my garage and found a rubber brake pedal bellow to my '56 Oldsmobile, cut to size, reused the spring clamps and it works like a charm.

Now I find this post after the fact and see you can get the boot from Amazon. (Why didn't I think of that! Ugh!) Time to do the passenger side!
Hey Jagpilot,
I was annoyed with the squeak of suspension for a long time since the car still covered by warranty, the dealer replaced the both of air strut, control arm, glued the bushing of sway bar etc. So I develop a habit to check the chassis constantly, lead to I found the broken boot timely. At first I was going to replace entire control arm, but the difficult is: tight the bolt and nut of control arm from front axle carrier " until the vehicle is in the ready-to-drive condition" is Mercedes required, that need four corner lift to support the wheel to drive condition. That is very difficult to me only have jack and stands. So if I can replace the boot I do not need to move the inside the bolt of control arm. That is why I'm seeking the replacement of the ball joint boot.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 10:27 AM
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Hey Jagpilot,
That is very difficult to me only have jack and stands. So if I can replace the boot I do not need to move the inside the bolt of control arm. That is why I'm seeking the replacement of the ball joint boot.
I agree. What I did not explain was that it took me an hour just to get the bolt of the ball joint back into the bolt hole after replacing the boot. I also only have jacks and jackstands. The issue was trying to line up the bolt with the hole and since the balljoint rotates, this makes it difficult. So to make the bolt line up (which was on the driver's side), I ended up having to use the spare tire jack at the front driver's side jack point, a jackstand under the front passenger suspension and my floor jack to push up on the front driver's brake disc. (I know, not a good idea. Should have removed the disc and jack up the hub. But it ended up okay.) This brought the bolt into the hole, and it required pushing back and forth until the bolt emerged straight from the hole. Then the nut used to pull the rest of the bolt through and tighten. That was a pain in the @$%#$! to line everything up!

Current Cars:
2008 Mercedes Benz S550
2003 Jaguar XJR
1970 Fiat 500L
1997 Mercedes Benz C280
1956 Oldsmobile 98
Former Cars:
2005 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
1997 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
1987 Alfa Romeo Milano
1986 Maserati 425
1969 Fiat 124 Spider
1971 Plymouth Duster
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jagpilot View Post
I agree. What I did not explain was that it took me an hour just to get the bolt of the ball joint back into the bolt hole after replacing the boot. I also only have jacks and jackstands. The issue was trying to line up the bolt with the hole and since the balljoint rotates, this makes it difficult. So to make the bolt line up (which was on the driver's side), I ended up having to use the spare tire jack at the front driver's side jack point, a jackstand under the front passenger suspension and my floor jack to push up on the front driver's brake disc. (I know, not a good idea. Should have removed the disc and jack up the hub. But it ended up okay.) This brought the bolt into the hole, and it required pushing back and forth until the bolt emerged straight from the hole. Then the nut used to pull the rest of the bolt through and tighten. That was a pain in the @$%#$! to line everything up!
Is that look like this process? I also tried many of times and method to align it up.
https://vimeo.com/user90483719/revie...954/2e877725a1
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 11:22 PM
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Is that look like this process? I also tried many of times and method to align it up.
https://vimeo.com/user90483719/revie...954/2e877725a1
Yes, that is what worked for me. The key was to get the otherside wheel / tire up and not touch the ground, otherwise the steering rod will keep fighting you as you try to get the bolt in the hole. I did the driver's side balljoint by turning the steering wheel full right in order to access the balljoint. My other thoughts was to get a large C-clamp to get the bolt in, but I did not have one.

Current Cars:
2008 Mercedes Benz S550
2003 Jaguar XJR
1970 Fiat 500L
1997 Mercedes Benz C280
1956 Oldsmobile 98
Former Cars:
2005 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
1997 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
1987 Alfa Romeo Milano
1986 Maserati 425
1969 Fiat 124 Spider
1971 Plymouth Duster
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jagpilot View Post
Yes, that is what worked for me. The key was to get the otherside wheel / tire up and not touch the ground, otherwise the steering rod will keep fighting you as you try to get the bolt in the hole. I did the driver's side balljoint by turning the steering wheel full right in order to access the balljoint. My other thoughts was to get a large C-clamp to get the bolt in, but I did not have one.
Got it. I lifted both side of front before I started the work, so I did not get too much difficult to align it up.
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