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High mileage, well cared for OR low mileage but less records?

2K views 39 replies 6 participants last post by  cowboyt 
#1 ·
Folks,

I tried to google and search for a thread discussing the pros and cons of buying a well-cared for higher mileage W220 versus one with lower mileage and maybe less of a care record.

Couldn’t find one, but perhaps my search terms were too long. I’m no power searcher, so that may be the case.

With that said, what’s your input? Do I buy a really well-cared-for W200 with 190K+ miles? Or should I snag one with less mileage but less maintenance history? There are a few “locally” (I use quotes because I’m not opposed to driving a few hours to see one and potentially buy it) for sale that fall into one or the other categories. Ideally, I’d love to get one that’s a deal, has decent records, and isn’t plumb worn out.

If you have any input as to what you did or what you learned by doing it this way or that, please let me know.

Thanks!!
 
#30 ·
Hmm...the D830's have been good to me so far. Maybe it's different on this side of the pond with the "g4m0rzz"; they tended to use mid-tower desktops here in the States. My D830 uses the built-in Intel graphics, which may not be super-speedy, but it always works.

I tend to avoid the D620's because they have a hardware-enforced 4GB DRAM limit, which ends up being really 3.25GB DRAM limit due to PCI bus addressing. The problem is the CPU's 64-bit, sure, but the Southbridge's memory addressing is only 32 bits (32 address lines, specifically). I would go for a D630, though, which has a 33rd memory address line in the Southbridge, thus allowing for 8GB (really 7.25GB) DRAM. I'd then throw 2x4GB DRAM in there for even better performance.
 
#33 ·
Hmm...the D830's have been good to me so far. Maybe it's different on this side of the pond with the "g4m0rzz"; they tended to use mid-tower desktops here in the States. My D830 uses the built-in Intel graphics, which may not be super-speedy, but it always works.

I tend to avoid the D620's because they have a hardware-enforced 4GB DRAM limit, which ends up being really 3.25GB DRAM limit due to PCI bus addressing. The problem is the CPU's 64-bit, sure, but the Southbridge's memory addressing is only 32 bits (32 address lines, specifically). I would go for a D630, though, which has a 33rd memory address line in the Southbridge, thus allowing for 8GB (really 7.25GB) DRAM. I'd then throw 2x4GB DRAM in there for even better performance.
Hi T,

Yes perhaps it is geo .......... graphical :devil :devil :devil

That's a good pun for this time of the morning :big laugh:

My findings were more that had them than didn't :frown

When I bought that last job lot of 25 Dells, I got 6 total D8xx's ..........................

2 x D820's still going strong, and 4 x D830, of which only one had the intel crestline graphics, (still going) the other 3 had the Quadro NVS 64mb Video Chip, all 3 quit within short order running a generic win 7 driver :frown

I could not get any drivers to work with win 7 despite trying all the google fixes I found, and also I do a lot using Multiple Monitor function, so using the Win 7 Driver, that and screen saver doesn't work :(

So, this side o' that pond, I avoid 'em like the plague now :devil

HTH,
 
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#31 ·
I will pull the trigger when the right one comes along. The features I’m leaning towards haven’t all manifested on a car I’ve seen advertised yet, but I’m also only looking at the general area here.

I’ll snag that SDS system so I can have the right gear to keep the car running. I definitely have more reading to do with respect to the different setups!
 
#32 ·
Forget about a 263k mile car, you’re asking for trouble

I assume your budget is under $2000 if you are looking at cars with problems or 263k mikes. It’s way smarter to pay a bit more for a mint car. I can find mint ones in the $3-4K range with mid 100k miles all day .

Remember there is nothing more expensive than buying a cheap Mercedes
 
#34 ·
Forget about a 263k mile car, you’re asking for trouble



I assume your budget is under $2000 if you are looking at cars with problems or 263k mikes. It’s way smarter to pay a bit more for a mint car. I can find mint ones in the $3-4K range with mid 100k miles all day .



Remember there is nothing more expensive than buying a cheap Mercedes


I was taking a look at what was available for that price range, however I’m willing to spend more for the right car.

Initially, it looked like anything under 150K was in the $5k to $6K range, but when I widened my search area, I found more examples of them in the $3K to $5.5K, which is more where I want to be.

The 263K mike car had the rear seat package that I liked, but again that mileage just puts me off. I’m sure if I keep looking and widen the area more I’ll find a really well-kept example.
 
#35 ·
Hi,

My advice is if you wait, the right Car will come along .........................

I have been on the look out for a cheap W220 S500 since January, to break up for the Engine and Gearbox to go into my SLK R170 .....................

I bagged this one today ................ £550.00

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w2...320-slk-500-daves-project-8.html#post17808954

It's main issue is a rear strut leaking a little, brake judder from hi speed and some cosmetics, really it's too good to break up, but that's exactly what I'm gonna do with it :devil

Verified 2 owners and 101k miles with an almost complete service history (one stamp missing) :grin

My son is picking it up tomorrow, and I'm going down next Monday to get it, if he doesn't drive it up here beforehand, (they are coming up for next weekend) ;)

He's gonna make his own mind up if it's ok to drive the 600 miles when he's driven it back to his place tomorrow, if it should break something on that rear right corner we both have Relay Recovery anyway, just a bit of an epic getting relayed, but hey ho, I'm fine with that, it won't be using any petrol that way ;)

Cheers,
 
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#36 ·
So one more topic for discussion that I haven’t seen much on (ok ok, I haven’t done ALL the research I could to determine this...):


You’ve just bought your W220. That’s good! What do you do next to make sure that you get the most life out of it?

I see buyers guides a’ plenty. I see “what to look for.” All those are helpful...but what’s the next step once you’ve brought it home? Do you guys follow a service regimen as soon as you bring one home??

I haven’t purchased one yet, but I want to see what the real people do once they park it in their driveway for the first time. Again, I’m taking notes so I can be as prepared as possible and really enjoy every moment when I do pull the trigger.
 
#37 · (Edited)
I drive it home with the Stereo firmly switched off, listen listen listen, get to know the Car.

Stick it straight on the lift.

All Oils, inc Engine Flush, All Filters, Gearbox Electonic Plug whilst doing Trans Oil and Filter.

Don't forget to reset the Service indicator in the Dash !!

New Serpentine Belt, check all Pulleys / inc Water Pump Bearings while Belt is off, if they are even slightly doubtful change Pulleys.
If the old belt is good, put it in the Trunk, one dark wet night you may need it :wink

Take off Rear Discs, check and replace any Parking Brake parts or just adjust them >>>>>>> "Yeah Right" :laugh , I haven't had one Park Brake yet that doesn't need the whole chebang overhauling upon my first visit in there :big laugh:

Full Check over everything as if it were going for annual UK MOT Test, (a very strict safety test if done correctly), and lets face it the examiner of the "Fresh MOT" that the seller just put on it prior to sale might well be the brother of the seller etc etc ................
Trust me, I've seen it all over my many years ;)

Fix any issues from the full check.

Full SDS Code Read, Print and Reset, attend to any Current Codes, drive and enjoy for a few weeks, Full SDS Read to see what's come back, if any, then fix that :wink

I usually spend at least a grand on most any car I buy.

Now enjoy the trouble free Car !!
 
#38 ·
Good advice. I'm pulling together a list of those parts for when I snag the one. I'm also learning who's around here that's a good indie in case the MB dealer here is full for appointments.

Thanks again, folks, for all your words and advice. I'll be sure to post a photo of my shiny W220 when I bring it home.
 
#39 ·
Oooooooooooooooooooouuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuch ......................... :eek

Whatever you do do not take your car anywhere near a Main Stealer, they will rob you blind, chuck parts at a problem in attemp to cure it and likely not do a decent job anyway !!

I am not joking btw !!
 
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#40 · (Edited)
How I wish that Dave's observation were wrong...but all too often, it proves to be right. Three years ago, I used the stealership to do an overall diagnostic on Dad's car, and since I was just dipping my toe into the water with these cars, it was well worth the $149, in my view.

Then I got to shopping online and bought the OEM suspension parts and everything else Dad's car needed. But I started work on the project 2000 S500 first to make my mistakes there. Fortunately, the project 2000 S500 needed the same front suspension overhaul that Dad's car (a 2000 S430) needed, plus an AIRmatic spring.

Good places to buy parts in the United States include, but are certainly not limited to, the following:

1.) FCPEuro
2.) MBOemParts
3.) Pelican Parts
4.) eEuroparts

These are the ones that I have happened to use, and they've done me right.

Note that MBOemParts is actually Mercedes-Benz of Naperville, Illinois, and their prices for Genuine-MB parts (all they sell, as you'd expect) are pretty darn good. Yep, a dealership that isn't a "stealership". Probably one of the handful of dealerships that can be so described, and I buy plenty of stuff from them. They're also a forum sponsor and provide free shipping to BenzWorld members with the coupon code.
 
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