S600 TT: how to install rear anti-sway bar without dropping rear sub-frame? - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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S600 TT: how to install rear anti-sway bar without dropping rear sub-frame?

Hi folks,

The S600 TT, converted to coil-overs a couple of years ago, has been riding pretty well with the front anti-sway bar, sourced from an AIRmatic car. I decided to engage in a little experiment. That experiment is adding the *rear* anti-sway bar as well and see how much it improves handling.

Got under the S600 yesterday afternoon, before the sun set, with the 2003 S430 also raised up to compare them. Looks like, on AIRmatic cars, the rear anti-sway bar goes over a bunch of stuff, and getting the anti-sway bar looks like it'd be really difficult if even possible without lowering the rear sub-frame. This is in contrast to the front, which turned out to be very easy.

Has anyone replaced the rear anti-sway bar on a W220, and if so, is there a way to do it without lowering that sub-frame?

2000 S430 (Dad's car, used for special occasions)
2003 S430 (one of two current DD's--second W220 project car, just for fun--decided to keep it after all)
2003 S600 (third w220 project car, the sports car)
2005 E320 CDI (the other current DD--first W211 project car)

Formerly:
2000 S500 (best friend's DD--my first W220 project car, gone to an excellent home--I still maintain it)
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 11:07 AM
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I don't see how it would be possible to remove it without lowering the subframe.

Besides that, if the S600 is anything like the CL subframes with ABC, you have to get a subframe from an airmatic car as there is nothing to bolt the sway bar to on the original subframe of the abc car.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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I had wondered about that, too. Looks like, on the W220's, the bolt-in place for the sway bar is there on the S600 in the same spot as the S430, as is the point on the rear spindle to which the sway bar link would bolt.

I really hope there's a way to do it w/o lowering the subframe. If I had a lift, it'd be easier, obviously.
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2000 S430 (Dad's car, used for special occasions)
2003 S430 (one of two current DD's--second W220 project car, just for fun--decided to keep it after all)
2003 S600 (third w220 project car, the sports car)
2005 E320 CDI (the other current DD--first W211 project car)

Formerly:
2000 S500 (best friend's DD--my first W220 project car, gone to an excellent home--I still maintain it)
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Doesn't look like there is. I found this thread over on the MBworld forum.

https://mbworld.org/forums/s55-amg-s...bc-delete.html

This guy did to his S55 what I did to my S600. In his case, though, he used the Yellow Speed kit. He also added the rear sway bar, and yes, that does appear to require dropping the rear subframe. Great. That means it's probably not gonna happen to my car for a while.
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2000 S430 (Dad's car, used for special occasions)
2003 S430 (one of two current DD's--second W220 project car, just for fun--decided to keep it after all)
2003 S600 (third w220 project car, the sports car)
2005 E320 CDI (the other current DD--first W211 project car)

Formerly:
2000 S500 (best friend's DD--my first W220 project car, gone to an excellent home--I still maintain it)
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 12:19 AM
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Hi @cowboyt ,

Get a spare Subframe Mounting Bolt, or remove one, go to Ironmongers and get 4 x 12" lengths of suitable thread studding with 12 nuts ................

Remove the S/F Bolts one at a time, screw one nut up loosely, and then lock 2 nuts together on the bottom of the studding.

Use the locked nuts to screw the studding up into the Chassis threads about 2", then run the loose nut up so it touches the S/F mounting, now do the same, one at a time for each of the other 3 S/F Bolts.

You can now lower each of the 4 nuts a little at a time until you get the s/f dropped down enough to do the job, when done pull it back up and one at a time replace each stud with the original bolts

That will be the safest and easiest way to do it unless you use a hefty Trans Jack and a Lift, and even then they get a little lively if you are doing them by yourself like I do

Rear Exhaust has to come off both sides, Prop Shaft to Diff Joint, Shock Absorber lower bolts, un plug and un clip Shock Valve and ABS wiring, and take the Calipers off the Carriers but leave them connected to the Hoses (to avoid Brake Bleeding)

I think that's about it, but double check there might be something I've forgotten, it is very early here while I'm typing this

I usually have them out in an hour, sometimes if the Exhaust is a bear to break it takes a little longer to get that back on, as to save messin around, I cut a slit up the "sliding joint" where it goes round the sealing ring, (get new rings from MB), and then have to carefully Weld it up and buff the inside of the Weld before refitting

HTH,
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Last edited by Dave2302; 04-10-2019 at 12:23 AM.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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That sounds like it should help, yeah. Thanks!
Dave2302 likes this.

2000 S430 (Dad's car, used for special occasions)
2003 S430 (one of two current DD's--second W220 project car, just for fun--decided to keep it after all)
2003 S600 (third w220 project car, the sports car)
2005 E320 CDI (the other current DD--first W211 project car)

Formerly:
2000 S500 (best friend's DD--my first W220 project car, gone to an excellent home--I still maintain it)
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