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post #51 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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I think I am ready to try to install my used parts tomorrow. The rain starts at 1PM so I don't think I will finish it. I am concern about brake lines. I was told at a local (regional) garage chain that they use better brake lines than copper, it is newer lines made with special nickel of something coating and they did't tell me the manufacturer. Have anybody heard about those lines? I can copper line but they told me that copper contaminates fluid. Can I install the main suspension parts and make lines later or it is much easier to make lines first?
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post #52 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 12:55 AM
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"Cu Ni fer" ................ "Cunifer Brake Pipe"

Do not re use old pipe unions, buy new !!

The clue is in the name, Copper (Cu) and Nickel (Ni) alloy, ................ That is what myself and most other UK Garages use.

You or anyone else should not be using copper microbore, it has no place in a Braking System, it does not have the ultimate burst strength, and as mentioned it will contaminate the Brake Fluid very long term

HTH
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post #53 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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Dave, Thank you very much. Now I remember that that was exactly how they call it! Do Mercedes sell pre-bent lines or I just bent mine?
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post #54 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 01:38 AM
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Dave, Thank you very much. Now I remember that that was exactly how they call it! Do Mercedes sell pre-bent lines or I just bent mine?
Manufacturers used to, but for many years now I manufacture my own and bend to exact original shape and fit those, so I have no idea whether they still do.

If you break a plastic pipe clip or 2 DO NOT leave it or use Cable Ties, String etc, Buy NEW ONES from MB, they cost buttons !!

HTH,


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post #55 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 03:31 AM
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Here is a before and after brake pipe replacement on my Wife's former Oldsmobile Bravada. German auto manufacturers started using copper/nickel blend three decades ago. GM, to this day use the cheapest steel pipe, even though their core customer lives in regions that use salt on the road.

A huge advantage to the copper nickel is that it can be easily bent, unlike steel. I have no idea why the auto parts stores sell copper nickel brake pipe, yet hide it deep in the back of the store behind the counter. Buy the size you need with pre-fitted ends. You can go longer, but can't go shorter.

Being a loyal GM owner for decades, the cheap brake pipe they used, causing my Wife's brake pipe to fail at 60k miles, was the reason I switched to German cars.

In the pictures attached, I ended up replacing all the brake pipes. The one in the picture was not so bad, but others much, much worse. While I was in there, decided to replace them all. The rear end was simply a convenient place to take a before and after picture.
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post #56 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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This is my progress for today before rain started - LOL. I was able to remove all the parts but lower control arm as you may see on the picture. However, I an so glad that I am do it now that I could see much more (or which I don't want to see?) First I need to explain. My car was sitting for a year, then my state safety inspection expired, I decided to start fixing it, replaces CV Axles and very first trip was to a state inspection. I passed beside the tires. I had all 4 brand new tires which took all back space on the rear seats of my car and one in the trunk. The inspector refused to put new tires on the car and told me that as soon I will put tires and bring car back to him we will give me the sticker without additional inspection. After that said I would like to you take a look at the low control arm ball joint on the picture below. I am mad!!! How can you trust your inspectors?

Now since my airstruts are open and it would be easy to replace them I am thinking about putting new ones. My car is 12 years old and almost 110Kmi so I think I would need to replace them very soon anyway despite whey are working well so far! The problem is that then it would be logical to replace control arms, wheel bearings and so on which can become a project.

Do MB brake lines rust? What original lines are made of? If they don't I will take from a donor car since I am not confident on bending and flaring tubes. I remember that last time I did flaring of DTS brake lines I was not very confident on my results. (Not to mention that I found and ingenious way to pull the line on a different path as in was designed by Cadilac and they were working really great... until I brought the car to the dealer to replace transmission and the dealer nicely asked me: who was the idiot to change your brake lines as it is? We can not remove transmission without removing the brakes and I ended up replacing the brakes again!)
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post #57 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 05:40 PM
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In Maryland, a torn boot will not fail the inspection as long as the joint is tight.
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post #58 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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In Maryland, a torn boot will not fail the inspection as long as the joint is tight.
There were not any grease whatsoever and the joint has a luft (it is a right word?) of about 2mm

And besides - I just dont want turned boots. My CV axles were fully functional but had small rips in the boots. I replaced both of them to later slowly changing boots and having two extra CV axles.
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post #59 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:22 PM
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I agree. A torn boot would need to be replaced regardless of the parts condition. I am very picky, maybe too picky lol! I have several toys. One of them is a 2016 Ram Laramie Longhorn diesel. My friends get a kick out of me waxing the inside of the tail pipe. The laugh will be on me one day when 911 will need to be called because my arm is stuck
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post #60 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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So far fixing old cars doesn't seem to be too difficult. The biggest challenge is to remove a rusted bolt - the rest is much easier than differential equations.
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