The greedy pay twice - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 07:30 AM
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Yep. I'm a n00b. If I can learn how, and that process is ongoing, then believe me, anyone can. And to get to drive cars like these, oh boy, is the effort worth it.

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post #22 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 08:06 AM
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"You definitely get what you pay for."

I wish that were true. A more accurate saying would be "You rarely get more than you paid for. You might not get as much as you paid for, but you almost never get more."

I agree on the profanity.
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post #23 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 11:52 AM
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Where is the OP ?? Hopefully he didn't get hurt since the "Mobile Mechanic" had done both sides...
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post #24 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Guys,

I was dealing with my car so did not get a chance to check with the forum, and there are a lot of posts here.

First about the tire. Last time I checked the tire was exactly one year ago when I passed State inspection. The inspector told me that the tire passed but is very low and I need to replace it ASAP. Since that I was not driving my car and in total I got about 1200 miles. The alignment obviously is so bad that the tire got to this terrible shape too fast.

About repair - on the picture is what I got. I pulled it from another car and I checked that those used parts are genuine MB parts. I assume you guys will be satisfied
My concern is about broken brake line. I remember what ones I changed a brake line on a Cadillac DTS and then a year later I brought it to a dealer to replace transmission they had to redo the line as well since I put it at an easier path, unfortunately it prevented the transmission to be removed from the car!!!
Obviously, I will use my original rotor and pads, the rest of the assembly I am planning on using the used one. The control arm looks to be very tight, hopefully recently replaces since the donor car had 160K miles. Would you recommend to replace some additional parts from the assembly? I think is should be very easy so install since everything is intact.
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post #25 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmaley View Post
Would you recommend to replace some additional parts from the assembly?
Yes, replace the mechanic.
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post #26 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, replace the mechanic.
I don't think so since I am going to do it myself this time and I am not replacing myself
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post #27 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 01:17 AM
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Hi,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmaley View Post
First about the tire. Last time I checked the tire was exactly one year ago when I passed State inspection. The inspector told me that the tire passed but is very low and I need to replace it ASAP. Since that I was not driving my car and in total I got about 1200 miles. The alignment obviously is so bad that the tire got to this terrible shape too fast.

About repair - on the picture is what I got. I pulled it from another car and I checked that those used parts are genuine MB parts. I assume you guys will be satisfied
My concern is about broken brake line. I remember what ones I changed a brake line on a Cadillac DTS and then a year later I brought it to a dealer to replace transmission they had to redo the line as well since I put it at an easier path, unfortunately it prevented the transmission to be removed from the car!!!
Obviously, I will use my original rotor and pads, the rest of the assembly I am planning on using the used one. The control arm looks to be very tight, hopefully recently replaces since the donor car had 160K miles. Would you recommend to replace some additional parts from the assembly? I think is should be very easy so install since everything is intact.
So you ignored advice from an experienced Vehicle Examiner about the Tyre / Alignment ..................

You are concerned about doing a simple Brake Pipe, which you obviously made a hash of on the GTS ...................

You intend to re use a Disc and Pads that has had the entire front corner weight of the Car on them, dragging up the road before the Caliper Carrier eventually gave way, and the Wheel and Hub part company with the rest ....................

And are not going to replace potentially 160k mile parts like Wheel Bearing and Swivels with new ones !!

Yes a DIY owner can save a lot of money doing his own repairs, buuuuuuut .............

I have to agree with @Deplore I seriously don't think you have the aptitude for this, and I mean that in the nicest possible way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deplore View Post
Yes, replace the mechanic.
Take it to a decent Indie and stick to non safety critical repairs yourself, before you kill yourself or someone else's family.
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Last edited by Dave2302; 04-10-2019 at 05:10 AM.
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post #28 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 06:52 AM
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I can't imagine this being rocket science or too complicated a job. You learn a lot just doing it yourself too - so I would like to think with a good set of instructions he should be able to pull off this job just fine.

I have my own experience with a lousy mechanic on a similar job. The end result for me was just that the car sat for an extra month while I sourced all the parts the mechanic broke and ended up completing the job myself.

As for the parts used - I bet they will work for now. It will at least get him up and running again and buy time to get newer/better parts down the road. Assuming all the nuts and bolts get torqued down this go around, the worst case scenario should be extra squeaks and play from worn bushings and parts.

I got to imagine the old caliper/rotor/pads are fine too as they were protected by the wheel when it hit the eject button.

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post #29 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 10:04 AM
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Yes, you can do it, and it's a good thing for you to learn. With that said, @Barmaley , yes, please do be careful and please do get the proper torque specs for everything that you're working on. While you're at it, go ahead and replace the brake disc, brake pads, ball joint, wheel hub assembly, all that stuff with new parts. Check out that axle, too; if it's good, you're fine, but if you have any doubt, then replace it, even though it's not cheap.

Regarding the control arm, if you see cracked rubber bushings, it's not a bad idea to replace those. If they're tight, though, this can wait a few years, but since it's apart anyway, now's a good time.

Regarding axles, I can tell forum members here that my S600 TT has 174,500 miles on it, and the axles (rears--all my Benzes are 2WD) are fine. Same with the 2003 S430 with 155K on its clock. So, it's entirely possible, and I'd even say probable, that the axle in that left front corner that Barmaley got second-hand is going to be OK.

2000 S430 (Dad's car, used for special occasions)
2000 S500 (wife's DD: my first W220 project car)
2003 S600 ("sex on wheels"--second w220 project car)
2003 S430 (one of two current DD's--third W220 project car)
2005 E320 CDI (the other current DD--first W211 project car)
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post #30 of 65 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huachipato View Post
I can't imagine this being rocket science or too complicated a job. You learn a lot just doing it yourself too - so I would like to think with a good set of instructions he should be able to pull off this job just fine.

I have my own experience with a lousy mechanic on a similar job. The end result for me was just that the car sat for an extra month while I sourced all the parts the mechanic broke and ended up completing the job myself.

As for the parts used - I bet they will work for now. It will at least get him up and running again and buy time to get newer/better parts down the road. Assuming all the nuts and bolts get torqued down this go around, the worst case scenario should be extra squeaks and play from worn bushings and parts.

I got to imagine the old caliper/rotor/pads are fine too as they were protected by the wheel when it hit the eject button.
Hi,

Oh no they were not, they took the whole weight of that front corner while that Wheel was wobbling and hanging and eventually the weakest link, (the Caliper Carrier) snapped allowing the Wheel Disc and Hub to come off and rip out the Brake Pipes !!

Why risk using a stressed, maybe distorted, maybe cracked Disc, and maybe distorted, or un bonded Pads ..................

It just beggars belief

That's it I've done my bit, I'm outta here


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