Android head unit install, anyone have questions? - Page 31 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #301 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 08:12 AM
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I've never managed to solder or weld anything Chinese lol


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post #302 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by cowboyt View Post
Indeed, in the F-16 fighter jets, there are a lot of solder joints. Those things undergo all sorts of stresses, and they seem to hold up. My general preference is to solder and heat-shrink, and that's what I did when I refurb'd the wiring in the S600's headlight assemblies...using copper wire, naturally, as The FSM intended.

Does anyone have any tips on soldering aluminum and copper wire together? I suspect the problem I'm having is due to aluminum's "skinning" of that thin oxide later (Al2O3). In the Air Force, everything we had was either copper (mostly) or steel (occasionally) contacts, and that's easily soldered.
Have you ever been inside any of the Navy's helicopters, like the Sikorsky SH-60 Seahawk? Talk about some serious electrical wiring work! Thousands of wires threaded throughout the whole thing. And every bit of it wrapped in a string loom, keeping everything tightly in place while being able to handle lots of flexing!

As for soldering aluminum to copper, the two-part trick is:
1. Separately tin the ends of the aluminum and copper wires before putting them together.
2. Use aluminum specific solder (requires much higher temperature) and on the copper use a non-resin core lead based solder.
The aluminum needs to be wire-brushed clean immediately before tinning. You'll then need to be scratching the wire with the soldering iron while covered in molten solder. The surface of aluminum wire flash-corrodes in microseconds. That's why it's hard to solder. It also takes a lot more heat than copper's lead based solder.
Tin the copper first. Then as soon as the aluminum accepts the tinning, poke the copper wire (already tinned with lead solder) onto the still-molten aluminum's solder. The existing heat should almost instantly melt the copper's solder into the mix. Remove the heat source while keeping the two wires held together. The aluminum solder will solidify first, encasing the copper wire's end, too. (If all goes well)

But in truth, you don't *want* to solder aluminum to copper. There are strong issues with Galvanic Corrosion at the joint from the dielectric activity of the two dissimilar metals.

So... Back to what both Daves have said: slide on heat shrink tube, clean wire ends, cover in dielectric grease, use crimped butt-connector, cover with heat shrink tube.
If this was something you had to do a lot of, they have special Aluminum to Copper butt connectors.

Aluminum wire = pain in the a$$!
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post #303 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 09:19 AM
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Yep, I just got through reading about that. Apparently it's a problem with soldered joints, too. Crimp connections with dielectric grease it is, then.
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post #304 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 09:15 AM
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I finally got some time to remove all the components in the trunk and rewire in the new head unit.

I was pleasantly surprised that the power and CANBUS connections were plug in play into the stock wiring.

I spent some time labeling the speaker wires, cutting one pair at at a time. I used wire nuts for now. Just wanted to make sure it all worked before I started looking at the better solution.

I initially turned on the car and was sad it wasn't turning on. Then it donned on me that the other connection from the 6 meter cable needed the CANBUS decoder box attached. I plugged that in and it all turned on. Speakers sound great right now too.

Very pleased with this result so far. Will take out on a drive later. Hoping for no more surprises.

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Last edited by Huachipato; 06-08-2019 at 01:44 PM. Reason: correcting spelling
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post #305 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 09:25 AM
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Hi @Huachipato ,

Nice one !! I'm quietly confident this will sort it all out

Now, please tell honestly, do you think the speakers sound better doing it this way without all that F/O cra ........ er ........ junk ??
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post #306 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 09:38 AM
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I gotta say that I thought the F/O adapter sounded fine to me. It wasn't till I discovered it was causing all kinds of other issues with the car that I realized I needed to find another way.

That said I can confirm that this set up sounds way better than my battery operated Bluetooth speaker.... LOL

It does also sounds cleaner that the F/O adapter.

I tested the fader option and it works great. I doubt I'll ever move the sound from where it is, but it works.

Also need to wire up and set up the rear camera to fully complete the install. Baby steps....


EDIT: Later on... I actually got a little more time today to do some work on it. I got the reverse camera installed almost all the way - I just need to wire it to pull power from the reverse light. I didn't know exactly which wires to pull from so I left the leads hanging from the trunk lid. I am glad I had the foresight to at least run an RCA cable for this when I was running the Other 6 Meter cables. Not relevant yet, but I did also run 5 other RCA cables in case I wanted to put Amps in the back sometime in the future.

I do like the way the camera installed. I had a mount that was supposed to make it center on the license plate - but I was afraid that location would interfere with the clean handle (the few times the car resets and it pops out). Instead, I cut the arms of the holder and drilled a hole right in the middle where the camera mount was located. It bolts in behind the license plate, right in the top left corner. Ends up kind of in between the keyhole and the License plate light.

Also - I did take the car on a little drive to get lunch and it behaved exactly as expected - no funny stuff going on so far. I just have to mention it - I'm still a little on edge over the whole Fiber Optic adapter issues....

I'm almost done....... Just need to study the reverse light now.
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post #307 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 04:39 PM
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Why not try just running a wire over to the reverse light bulb, and see if the computer pitches a fit over the change in current draw? If it does, you can try running a wire to each bulb, so as to cut the current draw in half...

Wally
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post #308 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by wallyp View Post
Why not try just running a wire over to the reverse light bulb, and see if the computer pitches a fit over the change in current draw? If it does, you can try running a wire to each bulb, so as to cut the current draw in half...
My money is on the ECU throwing a full-on temper tantrum! It's such a winey little baby.
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post #309 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 02:23 AM
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Hi,

SAM Unit does not throw a fit, current draw is so teeeeeeeny tiiiiiiiiiiny

Connect it to the wire on the lamp plug that corresponds with reverse bulb +, no I cannae remember which Colour it is but with everything off, un plug the lamp, take the bulb holder for reverse out and bell out it's 2 connectors back to where the plug is, this will tell you Earth and Rev +, do not connect to the (Brown ? ) Earth so it must be the other one ....................

Simples

Thanks for confirming, but yeah my ears tell me the "Ditch BOSE F/O sh1te" is the best method

Cheers,
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post #310 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 4DGeorge View Post
Okay... The 1812 Overture is going to require a very strong mid-bass. The stock W220 speakers are completely lacking in this area.
As a bass player I'm a huge RUSH fan - which also requires a strong mid-bass - and have been trying everything possible to find the best way to do that over the years. I also played French horn for 8 years and enjoy the more energetic classics (like Mozart, Holst, Tchaikovsky, etc.).
It turns out beefing up the door speakers and going with smaller woofers (a pair of 8") in sealed or ported enclosure work best.
The stock W220 woofer, being a free-air type, will only be good at those very low, boomy sounds our hip-hop friends are so fond of.
And those sealed enclosures... require more wattage to drive. Say about .... 300 W RMS!
Just a little update on this, since it's been just over half a year.

The wife has been alternating between the 2000 S500 and the 2003 S430. Yeah, I know, poor baby. That means I've gotten to drive the S500 here and there.

There's a Latin jazz CD that I have, of which some cuts have some fairly strong kick drum (bass drum, for you non-musicians). It's about like some of the Rush cuts that I've heard. No, it's not as tight as your dual 8" ported woofers. Turns out, though, that you still can feel the bass reasonably well; well, I can anyway. :-)

At some point I'll spend the time to figure out how to put in a good woofer sealed enclosure in a W220. Maybe that'll be when I do this to the S600, hopefully starting late this year. Folks like you and I will hear the difference. No question. For most people, though, it'll still sound quite good with proper EQ curve tuning.
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2000 S430 (Dad's car, used for special occasions)
2000 S500 (wife's DD: my first W220 project car)
2003 S600 ("sex on wheels"--second w220 project car)
2003 S430 (one of two current DD's--third W220 project car)
2005 E320 CDI (the other current DD--first W211 project car)
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