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post #411 of 483 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Hi,

OK, panels prepped, stonechip painted around under wheel arch edges and behind, and once dried, now the first coat of 2k Primer is on

Waiting on primer to dry off before a second coat

Several positive things have come to light this time since all my "Workshop Works" and purchases .............................

My Air fed Mask works a treat

I guesstimated a total mix of 200ml, and had a couple of thimble fulls left in the Gun after a wet Coat on both panels, so hopefully it wasn't just luck, and I won't be so wasteful in future

The PVC Curtain and the wooden Pelmet I made for above it are keeping all dust and fumes out of the Rear Half of the Workshop, and even though my Extract Fan isn't here yet, the Space Heater can be left on without fumes getting into the rear half area, I think the Space Heater is pushing all the fumes out through the front door gaps, certainly with my Air Fed Mask I can see a lot better now when halfway through a coat.

Now I've got the Devilbiss for Clear Coating, my other Gun has been relegated to "Primer Gun" instead of the cheapie, and boy what a difference, hardly any wet flatting will be needed on the Primer now.

Hopefully this will morph along to the Clear Coats with the Devilbiss, If I can lay the Clear Coats without Orange Peel then the whole process will be speeded up by cutting out a helluva lot of wet flatting ...................... we shall have to wait and see

I also thinned the 2k Primer 20% It sprayed on and flowed out a treat.

I suppose the downside to Painting Mels Car Panels is I'll have to fit them next, but the upside is they will no longer be cluttering my workshop up

Cheers for now, Dave

Pics were taken just after finishing the Primer Coat, you can see how clear the Painting area is from the photos
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post #412 of 483 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 02:48 AM Thread Starter
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OK, some knowledge imparted from videos before I started Mels C Class Wing and Side Skirt has worked like a charm !!

Also the New Devilbiss that made a big difference to my Wallet has also made a big difference to my Clear Coat finish

The Red Gun is now Primer Gun, that laid on 3 nice coats of high build, a touch of Orange Peel, but the Panels wet flatted down quite easily with 800 grit. They were second hand Panels from a breakers and had a fair few chips and scratches to get rid of, hence 3 coats before flatting

Base Coat, I gave it a quick spray under and round the edges twice, then an average coat horizontally, wet coat vertically and finally wet coat horizontally, about 10 mins between coats at 40c, not a Tiger Stripe in sight, nice even base colour.

Now fired up the Devilbiss Gun for Clear Coat................

First thing is, I was waiting too long between Clear Coats, at 40c it only needs 5 to 10 mins, did round the edges twice first, then 3 full wet Clear Coats.
Barely any Orange Peel in the Clear Coat, does not require flatting, just a few dust nibs to nip off and an easier Polish too.

TBH, I never even swept the floor this time, so should get a reduction when S Class comes back in after hoovering and damping down floor

No Runs this time, just one barely noticeable "very slight saggy" which will come out real easy

I also learned from the Videos that with modern Clear Coat systems any more than 3 Coats is un necessary and causes problems in the finish, because the coats underneath are already gone off !!

So happy bunny, I've now got the finish I want off the Guns, which will cut down the time taken messing around to flat and polish it to a high gloss finish

I feel sure once the Extract Fan is installed, the dust nibs will become almost non existent, that is my only gripe now, I know all paint jobs get some, I just feel I'm getting a few too many floating around in the overspray misty air

Guess I'll have to fit Mels Panels on Sunday

Lets hope this carries over to the rest of the S Class

Cheers Dave

pix:-
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Last edited by Dave2302; 10-09-2018 at 03:01 AM.
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post #413 of 483 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 04:38 AM
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Garage
Good for you keeping another W220 on the road. You and I are going to be the only ones keeping these alive here soon 😉. Have you had any issues with this chassis and the STUPID lower door lip rubbers that seem to trap moisture? Mine are now in my garage. I’m in the DESERT 🌵 and had to have my local German body shop (Glasurit signs everywhere &#x1f602 deal with minor surface rust back in 2015 (been fine since). Fortunately I escaped with a bill for less than US$800 and they even cavity waxed the inside of the doors.
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post #414 of 483 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 05:55 AM
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Looks like a pro job to me!
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post #415 of 483 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Guys,

I will be brushing Waxoyl on the Door Lower Lips, plus in the Channel of the Rubber Trim, and then I'll be refitting them

Thanks Ollie, yeah I've seen a lot worse come out of local "Paint Shops" , which is why I'm now doing my W220 myself, as the only decent Paint Shop has packed it in now

My only problem now is dust nibs and I know that 99.5% of that comes out with Wet Flat and Polishing

All things considered, I don't have a booth, just a dusty mechanical workshop, but I'm sure when I get back on my Car, the Extractor Fan, and cleaning the Floor First will make a huge difference

Mel is happy that I've done the Wing and Skirt for her C Class, so I'll fit it them this weekend, and that's 2 less parts for me to keep tripping over, and the C Class back to damage free

I'll also install the Extractor Fan, a big 20" Jobbie I just bought

Cheers Dave
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post #416 of 483 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 07:38 AM
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This is one skill I would love to be able to master. I am soooo particular about paintwork and it's really expensive to get a good job done. If I could do this myself it would be amazing - but I guess there is years of experience required to do a good job
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post #417 of 483 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Hi,

See back a few posts, when I started

Millions of U Tube Videos while waiting for coats to dry set me right................... Don't believe it all, sort the wheat from the chaff !!
YOU CAN DO IT IF I CAN

I was let down by the guy who was going to do my S Class.

I haven't done any big Paintwork for 36 years and back then it was Cellulose, no Metallics No 2k Clear Coats, No Basecoat, No 2K Primers etc etc.

Back then I was pretty rubbish at it.

I bought a load of tools, consumables and Paint Materials and taught myself.
I started with the Trunk Lid on the W220, and even first effort wasn't too bad, but I messed it up flatting a run out, so I rubbed it down again, and I did it again................

If i'm honest when the rest of the Car is done I will probably do it again, there is a very slight "metallic shady" in one Corner, you have to look really hard in angled light to see it, but i know it's there and it bugs me

Next I did Both Right Doors, a real good uniform Base Coat, just the Clear Coat was a bit 'orange peely' with a few dust nibs. The Doors have flatted back, a quick Polish so far, and come up really nice.

Mels Panels are a "Gun Finish", all they will need is a quick wet nip off, and minimal polishing ...................

That is where I want to be, and am now happy to finish my W220, as I don't get much spare time these days.

If I had a bigger Workshop, I would build my own Spray Booth, just to do my own stuff The lift gets in the way in my workshop

Pic below of the Extract Fan I just bought

Cheers Dave
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post #418 of 483 (permalink) Old 10-09-2018, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Regarding Dust Nibs etc, this article confirms my thinking, and what I have seen in Videos, some of it will be impossible in my Workshop, but at least i now have a decent understanding of how to minimise it.

Once I get back on the W220, I will see how much I can reduce this effect



Spraying paint can be like a medical procedure where contaminants like dust and dirt can be costly. Below are some tips for keeping your paint environment and paint jobs clean so that your refinishing is more flawless. You may want to make a check list so that you give yourself every chance of generating clean paint work.

1. Gun cleaning is important. Be sure to clean your gun well right after you're finished using it, don't wait because waiting can cause paint materials to stick to the gun interior. A good gun spray gun cleaning kit is important for good gun maintenance.

2. After cleaning your gun allow the gun parts to dry well before reassembly. Good paper towels are a must in many paint shops, we have four areas of a small shop that have paper towel dispensers.

3. Keep you paint bench clean. If the bench is in the room you should not allow dust or dirt to accumulate on the surface because it can cause your gun or paint materials to get contaminated. A smooth bench top that can be wiped periodically helps keep contaminates out of your paint work. Simply walking by a dust contaminated surface can launch dust in that air that turns into dust nibs on your painted vehicle.

4. Using metal or plastic paint sticks to stir your paint is much better than wooden sticks. Wooden sticks can pick up dust or dirt that can be transferred to your paint while plastic or metal sticks can be cleaned before stirring paint products. Save the wooden sticks for primers other other liquids that get sanded prior to coating.

5. Try to keep unnecessary parts and workbenches out of the painting area. Many horizontal surfaces will pick up dust that can be transferred to your work. Remember that walking past a work bench can cause dust to be launched into the air and land on wet paint. Even walls should be blown off prior to applying top coats.

6. Air hose tends to pick up dirt off the floor so wipe it off prior to using on important work. A damp cloth works well for this purpose.

7. Plan ahead... try to keep sanding to a minimum in the paint room as the time approaches for doing any important spraying.

You can also plan ahead by not attracting insects to the paint room for weeks prior to spraying. IE. Minimal outdoor lighting at night in some areas.

8. A vehicle running over your air hose can help it break down inside. This can cause particles to get blown into your work. Keep hoses out from under cars when the cars are being moved.

9. When the floor is damp it can release less dust into the air. If your air movement is minimal or moving so that it can carry particles into your fresh paint then you may want to consider dampening the floor. Spraying the floor with a little water can help the dust situation dramatically. Don't use too much water, you don't want to generate any splashing.

10. Keeping surface contamination in mind from the beginning will aid in a better end result. Washing and removing grease, wax, oil, etc. from the surface before and after sanding then proper blowing with compressed air then a final tacking using the proper tack cloth prior to spraying colour can greatly improve the outcome.

11. Using your masking materials for both primer and colour will almost certainly generate dust and particles in your top coats. It is usually recommended that the car be unmasked after the primer is sanded then washed, blown off, masked, solvent cleaned then tacked and painted.

12. Many contaminants come from two sources... the vehicle and the painter. We addressed the vehicle in previous post, the painter is just as important.
You should be wearing a clean paint suit. Clothing is usually one of the biggest dust makers so a clean paint suit eliminates that variable. Blow off any hoods or face masks and wear a clean pair of protective gloves.


Cheers Dave
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post #419 of 483 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 08:26 PM
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This is the gun I use. Love it! I am thinking about buying a second one and dedicate one for clearcoat only.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #420 of 483 (permalink) Old 10-12-2018, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Hi,

Yep, nice Gun that.................

All the Devilbiss stuff is well respected by Pro Painters, mine certainly made a difference to my Clear Coats

Extract Fan now in, jeez this thing shifts some Air lol, 6500 Cubic Metres p/hr

I just got to make a removable wooden cover / shutter to go on the wall outside to prevent Draughts when I'm not using the Extraction

Cheers Dave
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