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post #351 of 516 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 05:41 AM
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It took me two days to install the cables from the boot to the new Erisin Media Unit, (Reverse Camera Video, GPS Antenna, AM/FM Antenna). Required removing centre console, front and rear left seats, part front left carpet, rear left carpet. Routed cables from boot through top aperture behind rear left seat, into left side cable channel, across under front left seat inside cable channel, in cable channel to front of console and hence to media unit. Had to add a one metre extension to the Reverse Camera Video cable as 5m wasnít long enough.

Connected all up and everything works except the AM radio receiver.

Before installing cables I temporarily routed them outside the car to test and everything worked, even the AM receiver. I suspect that just having a long wire outside the car was an effective antenna.

Then with them buried inside the car there is not enough signal for the AM receiver to work. After some testing by connecting a length of wire into the Fakra antenna connector in the boot the Erisin shows good reception on both AM and FM.

I now suspect the Rear Window Antenna Amplifier Module is not powering on. This doesnít seem to affect the FM signal reception but the AM receiver will not work and shows zero signal strength.

Analysis of the circuit diagram for the Rear Window Antenna Amplifier Module (A2/12) shows the connections are to the Rear Fuse Block (F60), Upper Control Panel (N70) and the Audio Gateway (N93/1).
  • X1.1 Grey/Yellow is a data connection to the UCP (N70)
  • X1.3 Red/Yellow is constant 12V (circuit 30) and goes to Rear Fuse Box (F60)
  • X1.6 Brown is ground (circuit 31)
  • X1.2 Blue (Ant. On) goes to AGW (N93/1)
  • K1L Black Fakra coax (AM/FM) goes to AGW (N93/1)
  • K2L Yellow Fakra coax (IF) goes to AGW (N93/1)

Analysis of the circuit diagram for the AGW (N93/1) shows the above connections to the Rear Window Antenna Amplifier Module (A2/12) and also connections to MOST, CAN-BH, CAN-BL, 30, 31, Mute, Wakeup and a heap of loud speakers.

So it looks to me as though the AGW is not getting a Wakeup signal from either the MOST or the Wakeup Blue/Black wire and hence is not powering on the Rear Window Antenna Amplifier Module (A2/12). From days of reading the Internet it appears that this is a common issue when adding Android Media Units and most just ignore the fact that the AM receiver doesnít work. Here in Australia, with our long distances between cities, this is not an option, as AM is often the only radio signal available.

If you have got this far my question is, should I try connecting the Erisin Amp/Ant blue wire directly to the Rear Window Antenna Amplifier X1.2 Blue (Ant. On)? I have tested the Erisin Amp/Ant blue wire which shows 0V until the Erisin is fully booted up when it shows +12V which makes sense. I canít test the Rear Window Antenna Amplifier X1.2 Blue (Ant. On) signals as I have gone past the point of no return in removing the OEM COMAND. (BTW the OEM M-B Wakeup Blue/Black wire only goes positive momentarily when COMAND was powered on.) I think that is the actual problem, with no COMAND there is no pulse on the Wakeup Blue/Black wire. The car must produce a MOST Wakeup signal when the EIS operates but this doesnít power on the Rear Window Antenna Amplifier.

Any help much appreciated.

On another Android Media Unit topic, during my hours of reading and re-reading I discovered an excellent tip hidden in the MBWorld Forum. I have connected my Samsung S7 smart phone to the Erisin via Blue Tooth for phone calls and had configured my phone as a WiFi hot spot so that the Erisin will have access to the Internet while I drive. This all works very well except that I had to remember to switch on the Hot Spot every time I got in the car. (It automatically switches off after losing the BT connection, thus saving battery.) The tip was that there are a heap of Apps available on the Android Play Store to automatically switch on the WiFi Hot Spot when a designated BT connection is made. I had to try several apps before I got one to work, and was so pleased after successfully trialling the Hot Spot Starter App, I purchased the full version (AUD1.29) which has the option to only turn on the hot spot when the phone is charging. I have now removed all the OEM phone stuff from the centre console and installed a wireless charger, so now all I do is put the phone on the charger and start driving. Now I only have to remember to take the phone with me when I leave the car. I wonder if there is an App for that?

Regards,
Brian
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post #352 of 516 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 04:24 PM
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Well it turns out there is an App that will do the job and remind me to take the phone with me when I exit the car. (The phone is hidden in the centre console when driving and easily forgotten.)

The App I discovered is called Bluetooth Notifier and when installed on the phone and configured to watch the Erisin media player BT connection it will give an audible warning when the BT connection to the car switches off. Perfect for exiting the car, so no more leaving the phone behind.

Brian
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post #353 of 516 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Brian,

I would err on the side of caution, regarding your antenna amp, as it is a bear to change if it goes pop !!

Look at WIS Wiring Diagram for your Car.

Check to see if the Antenna amp is the same for a Pre facelift D2B Car (part number) .......................

If same part number, it will be OK connected to the Erisin Blue Wake Up Wire that is in the Black Power Connector Block, as that is how mine is, and how it was wired at old COMAND H/U.

I would err against using the Wire in the "SWC etc" Harness.

If you still cannot conclude, then I'd start by applying 5V to Antenna Amp, before going the whole hog and hitting it with 12V

It is strange that your FM is ok, uses same Amp ??????????????

Could it be your AM has a bad connection at the Rear Screen, perhaps before you do anything else, also check the "Wake Up" wire at the Antenna Amp to see if you are getting a 5V - 12V signal when you power on the H/U

HTH,

Cheers Dave
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post #354 of 516 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 03:22 AM
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Hello Dave,
I spent the day today checking the signal on the blue wire that goes between the AGW and the antenna amplifier. The wire goes to +12 volts when the Erisin is turned on so it seems to be working ok. I've got no idea why the am signal just doesn't work at all whereas the FM does. I've given up for the moment and gone back to working on installing my Distronic.
Regards Brian
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post #355 of 516 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Brian,

Thanks for that, at least we now know that Antenna Amp is woken by a 12 Volt +ve signal, so another bit of info for the forthcoming "Ultimate W220 Android Install Thread"

Isn't the AM and FM signal on the same Coax ?? IIRC it is on my Car, so that would suggest it may be something to do with the Erisin .................

Did the AM work ok on old COMAND ?? If it did then the next suggestion may be worth looking at first ........................

Is there a configuration menu on Erisin for setting the different territories, in particular for radio Reception frequencies ........... AM on wrong setting ??????????????????????????



Well worth a look though

HTH,

Cheers Dave
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post #356 of 516 (permalink) Old 08-22-2018, 07:19 AM
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"It is strange that your FM is ok, uses same Amp"

The Porsche 928 uses a similar setup, with a rear window antenna and an amp under the headlining. It is pretty common for the small black amp power wire to remain unconnected with a change in head units, and when that happens, FM works but AM doesn't.
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post #357 of 516 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 12:07 AM
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The Erisin radio AM (and FM) works fine with a length of wire as an antenna but only FM works when connected via 5m aerial cable to the OEM black Fakra cable that used to plug into the AGW.

The AM and FM worked fine on the OEM COMAND, with black Fakra plugged in to the AGW. (BTW I worked out that the yellow/mustard Fakra coax into the AGW is an Intermediate Frequency (IF) signal.)

This indicates that the OEM antenna amplifier module should be working OK. Something causes the AGW to make the blue "Ant. On" wire go to +12V when the car is switched on and there is +12V on the AGW red/yellow (30) wire and 0V on the brown (31) wire so all good. Because this all seems OK I haven't tried connecting the Erisin blue "Amp/Ant on" wire to anything yet. I had planned to connect it to the blue wire connected between the AGW and the antenna amplifier module, but it is not necessary.

I really don't want to fiddle with the roof lining to get at the antenna amplifier module.

I have also already configured the Erisin settings for Australian radio frequencies.

As Wally says AM not working seems a common issue with aftermarket media units.

As a last resort I can install the powered antenna splitter which I purchased back in to the antenna line to the Erisin. I just won't use the second RF output which was designed for DAB as it didn't work. I have installed the supplied DAB window mounted antenna which works fine. IIRC with the splitter installed I had both AM and FM reception but no DAB. It requires some fine soldering as I damaged it slightly connecting and then disconnecting the needed cable adapters. The photo shows what didn't work for the DAB receiver.

So I don't know what to do next and have been removing more floor panels to install the Distronic control unit. I am getting too old to be kneeling down and leaning inside to get to all these odd positions to remove hard to reach screws etc. So I have to have lots of rests.

Regards Brian
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post #358 of 516 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Brian,

OK, then that rules out H/U config.

Your Cars CAN Bus signals the AGW to send the wake up signal, so unlike D2B with no Bose, (my car), you do not need to connect Ant Blue Wire, doing so could create conflict / and / or Battery Drains, or overload H/U circuitry. No need to bother.

No need to bother removing Headliner / Antenna amp, I think we have established that is working correctly.

In your situation I would do as you and use the Splitter gizmo in the way you describe.

I'm going to see if I get AM, don't know when because we don't get AM in my area, so will have to go on back burner for a while

HTH,

Cheers Dave
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post #359 of 516 (permalink) Old 08-24-2018, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Guys,

A little update on my Car

I'm finalizing the Paint Prep which will hopefully be finished by the end of next weekend, in which case it can go up for final Paint.

Also the 4 Tyres arrived today, 275 / 40 ZR 18 103Y XL Rears and 245 / 45 ZR 18 100Y XL Fronts

Will post up some Paintwork (well Primerwork), pics soon

Cheers for now, Dave
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post #360 of 516 (permalink) Old 08-25-2018, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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Hi again,

OK, well here's where I'm at by lunchtime

There were 2 more areas left to sort out that looked OK until close scrutiny, slight blistering under the paint around the edges of Trunk Lid, and Number Plate Surround, and also a nasty blister on Right Front of Sunroof / Roof.

The scabs on Trunk edges I suspect were as a result of Paint damage to these edges due to inepts attempting to open the Trunk when the Battery was flat long before I got the Car, remember way back the Mechanical Lock was seized The same inepts also ripped off the Plate Surround, damaging it and the painted edges of the area it sits within on the Trunk Lid, so rust started here too.
I have a good used Licence Plate surround that will be painted at the same time as the Car, so I'll get that in proper Plastic Primer this weekend too

The little creepy scabs on the Roof edge were either caused by tiny stone chips, also likely the PO putting a hand with rings out of the Sunroof and chipping the Paint on the edge of the aperture The 2 smaller ones lower down nearer the Windscreen top are most likely little stone chips !!

All that said, I have seen other MB's of this era with these tiny little "festers" in their Paintwork, and wonder if this car is maybe one of those that MB got the Water Based Paint wrong, I read about that somewhere

Whatever, that's irrelevant now, but I want it 101% right once Painted, as she's a keeper
Sadly although the Paintshop owner is a buddy of mine, the guys actually doing the Top Coat are just his staff, so to me simply acquaintances .............................

Their oven finishes are beautiful, but I am paranoid and anal enough not to trust them with all this time consuming prep work, after all, it's no real skin off there nose if my Car starts showing the odd scab in 2 years time

I will also be fitting a new sunroof seal when Final Paint is done, and will brush Waxoyl into the lip that it seats in, same with the rubber lower edge door trims etc etc

So I start of by using DA Sander, 180 grit then 320 grit to remove all paint and get the affected repair area reasonably flat, then the 2" Air Grinder to get as much rust off as is possible.
I would use a little filler at this stage if needed but I didn't go that deep with the buff, the primer will fill the scratch marks

Finally a treatment of Bilt Hamber, a good rust converter, DA Sand again and by hand around the tight corners, one more coat of Bilt Hamber, and re sand that leaves me with a prepped panel, the little black areas are converted rust, and now they have been done twice with the Bilt Hamber, and had a final going over with the DA again they are all but gone, just a very few tiny black specs left.

Now we are ready to get the area in Primer, but as I learned, this isn't as simple as just getting a couple of coats on, especially if you want the re finish to last ...........................

Ordinary Primers are porous, and so when my Car has to stand outside in the rain, before it has it's final Colour Base Coat Paint and Clear Lacquer, it will end up with rust re - appearing

I don't want that again, so here is what the Hot Rodders do with long term projects that get stood outside

Firstly any exposed metal, as you see in my pics, my next step is 2 coats of Self Etching 2 pack Primer, but the Etch Primer is for 101% adhesion and that is not impermeable by moisture, so still there is rust risk if she gets wet outside before final Paint

I'm onto the Self Etch stage in a minute

After that, once dry, so probably tomorrow, I will give it 3 to 5 good coats of Epoxy Primer Filler, so I've got enough on there to get it glass flat before base coating without going through to the Etch Primer or worse still bare metal again

All this time consumption is why I absolutely hate Paintwork !!

Pics below, rust treated with Bilt Hamber, and ready to flat to bright steel before spraying Self Etch Primer.

More pics as we progress in my next post

Chow for now, Dave

Piccies:-
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Last edited by Dave2302; 08-25-2018 at 08:41 AM.
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