Sun visor vanity light getting voltage, still won't work! - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 05:03 PM
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You will need pry tools to take out the mirror assembly from visor. It literally is held in by 6 tabs then the switch is right under the mirror. The part number is A2118700510
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks very much nhzruthless818. I will let you know how it goes.
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Hiya Dave,

When you stripped your old visor, was it the plastic bits on the mirror cover that broke, or plastic bits on the assembly within the visor itself? I removed the mirror cover (not sure if I actually needed to do this) and so I understand how it works now, it's just a pity on this model the visor needs to be split to access the microswitch. I'm suspecting either a disconnected wire or a faulty microswitch (manually clicking the microswitch with the mirror cover off still didn't make the light illuminate).

PS: Don't know how you found a visor for 10 quid, the prices I have seen them for on eBay are way above that.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 11:53 AM
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You can test the microswitch by doing a continuity test at the metal bits on the plastic bar that snaps into the inner roof bracket. Circuit should be open (infinite Ohms) with the mirror flap closed, closed (zero Ohms) with the flap open.
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 01:38 AM
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Hi,

Quote:
Originally Posted by chapzboy View Post
When you stripped your old visor, was it the plastic bits on the mirror cover that broke, or plastic bits on the assembly within the visor itself?

I think it was plastic inside, but I can't be sure now a lot has happened in the last 7 months

PS: Don't know how you found a visor for 10 quid, the prices I have seen them for on eBay are way above that.

OK.......... Trader Secret ..........I thought this was pretty obvious.........

I didn't bother buying the Visors that were listed at what I call "ridiculous prices", same with any s/h parts I buy.
What I do is to look for guys that are breaking a car, save a few of them in a watch list and then send them all a message asking if they have a certain part and how much............ see what comes back
I wasn't desperate at that time either, as I was busy on the car with other jobs.
I have been buying s/h parts for 40 odd years now, and know fine well about greedy breakers and sensible ones.........

Let's face it, once the Engine, Tranny and Subframe is gone, perhaps these days Modules, Switchgear and Clusters, a breaker will send the car off for fragging / crushing, so a visor to them is 10 to 20 (beer tokens).
I got lucky and paid a tenner
Obviously if I were desperate for a part, that would reflect in what I am prepared to pay !!
Cheers Dave

Last edited by Dave2302; 06-04-2017 at 01:40 AM.
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Hi wallyp, how does that test differentiate between a faulty microswitch and say, a disconnected or broken wire in the visor though?
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 09:51 PM
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If you have an open circuit (infinite Ohms) regardless of the cover position, the test doesn't tell you whether the problem is a broken/disconnected wire or a faulty microswitch or a broken plastic cover. Doesn't matter too much, since you will be opening (or replacing) the visor in either case.

I would expect the switch to be the more common failure - no reason for the wires to vibrate or move. The plastic tab on the cover might be likely as well.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 12:03 PM
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I honestly have never seen a mercedes visor with a bad wire inside. I have owned multiple mercedes w126,140s, w220, w211 and w210s. They all experienced visor problems atleast once in there ownership but most of the time it was cover not contacting microswitch or thw microswitch itself. The reason we test at the clip is because we want to ensure the car harrness isnt damaged replacing a visor is cheaper and easier then replacing the harness. I personally would not do a hack repair on a harness. For example retrofitting sunshades in my w140 i made a harness with the same connectors and same length (part was nla)

I attached a picture of the microswitch.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. It's sounding like it will be the microswitch (which is about $10 new on eBay). The difficult part will be splitting open the visor in a way that doesn't ruin the visor cosmetically, or the functionality of the bits inside it. I will report back with an update later.
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-26-2017, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
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Hi all, I've now had success with this issue too.

I removed the mirror cover assembly by gently pulling forward from the bottom of it. Once you can slip a thin blade type tool through the gap between the mirror cover and the visor itself, push it up against the clips (there are two) one at a time to release the clip from the visor. Once both clips are released, the mirror cover will slip off (downwards) easily.

At this point, I believed I was going to have to split the visor, as I knew the microswitch was the likely culprit (the only other possibility was disconnected/faulty wiring in the visor). However, a forum post elsewhere said that someone had success by spraying contact cleaner into the microswitch.

Thinking there would be no harm in giving this a try, I did, and sure enough, after a few sprays of the contact cleaner and a few clicks of the microswitch with my finger, the switch was once again actuating the light when pressed. Success!

The only other problem was that the mirror cover itself wasn't staying up quite high enough usually, to keep the microswitch depressed. The mirror cover has a plastic tab on it (which has "Li" or "Re" pressed into it depending whether it's the left or right side cover) that actuates the microswitch when open.

What I did was "build up" the thickness of this tab by using some electrical tab placed on the tab.

Also, I repaired some cracks in the plastic bevel of the mirror cover (these usually form around the top of the mirror cover, where the metal bracket is that hold the cover in its open position.

When reinstalling the mirror covers, the top clips should be inserted (slipped into) into the visor first. Then gently press the lower part of the mirror cover into place, one side at a time, into you feel and hear that the clips have snapped into place.

It's a great feeling knowing you have repaired an issue, albeit a minor one, for virtually no cost instead of buying expensive replacement parts. Thanks all for the advice, I never would have thought a faulty microswitch in the visor would be the culprit!

NB: My visors still don't extend towards the rear of the car when unclipped from the roof as some have stated they can - mine either don't have that feature (I have an early W220), or the mechanism on both sides is totally seized. Due to the risk of ruining the visor both functionally and aesthetically, I doubt I will try and look at fixing this.
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