W220 S500 Measuring Quiescent Current or Parasitic Battery Drain - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 01:50 AM
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Hi,

Now here's another useful bit of kit I just came across, I just bought 1

Automotive Current Tester Circuit Meter Standard ATO ATC Blade Fuse Car Vehicle | eBay

HTH,

Cheers Dave
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post #22 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 05:25 AM
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Dave, in order to use this, the fuse has to be removed first right? Guess it just means waiting the 20-30 mins after reinserting each fuse, or pull a few at a time...
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post #23 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:46 AM
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Gents, I may have had success in identifying the problematic circuit.

Having just done testing of all fuses, fuse 50 (in the rear fuse box, a 10A fuse) was showing 1.1 - 1.2mV consistently (I used two separate meters and both gave the same value). This would work out to be 162mA if I did my sums right.
NB: is it normal for the meter to fluctuate different values before "settling" to a value when checking a fuse? This seemed to happened (especially with the Fluke meter) when checking several fuses.

Looking at my fuse chart, f50 is for the rear sun blind. In my car, the rear blind has never worked since I bought it, except for one time a long time ago when I pressed the button on the console and it randomly raised.

What are your thoughts? I've pulled the fuse and made a note of my resting battery charge; before using the car tomorrow I'll check the battery voltage again.
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post #24 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:59 AM
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Hi,

Well let's hope that's it, then all you need to do is check everything after that fuse to find the Culprit

Re that tester, yes you do have to pull fuses, but there aren't that many that would make you wait the 20 mins or so

I just bought it because it is a cheap & useful bit of kit, not necessarily for doing this particular job

For example, you could now pull that fuse 50, plug that tester in, and go to the blind motor, pull the plug off it and see if the reading drops, if not, go back to the next connection, check, etc etc until you find the exact location causing the fault........
ATM you only know that everything 'upstream' of fuse 50 is a suspect

Yes it is normal for the meter to fluctuate before settling on certain circuits

HTH,

Cheers Dave
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post #25 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:09 AM
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Thanks Dave, I really hope I've found it, at the moment I would just be happy to leave the fuse out as the blind is the only thing it controls going by the fuse chart, although if it just needed a new motor and I could get one at a decent price I may do that, as it is very bright here in the warmer half of the year
Will let you know the outcome.

Last edited by chapzboy; 05-18-2017 at 11:12 AM.
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post #26 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by chapzboy View Post
1) At the moment I would just be happy to leave the fuse out

2) As the blind is the only thing it controls going by the fuse chart
Hi,

1) That's not exactly tracing and rectifying the fault LOL

2) Trouble with MB is that Fuse chart is not always accurate, I like to check MB WIS ASRA, (a workshop manual disc you can buy off EBay), fuse chart, and then see what, out of the list of items for a particular fuse, is actually fitted

Cheers Dave
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post #27 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 01:13 AM
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Question

I just connected my meter in series to the battery to check the resting current at the battery (I waited until the car was sleeping); I took a photo of the result.

As you will see, I had the meter set to the "200m" range in the DCA group. Does this value translate to 21 milliamps?
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post #28 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 02:53 AM
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Hi,

I'm not really familiar with that type of meter scaling, what does it read on the 10A scale ??

On the 10A scale if it were 21 mA it would show as 0.021 ............. 1000 mA = 1 A

Is your Battery still going flat with Fuse 50 out ??

If not then that could well be correct, and the rest of the Cars Electronics must be good

HTH,

Cheers Dave
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post #29 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 05:30 AM
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Hiya Dave :-)

I'm quietly confident the problem is fixed, but I wanted to confirm this by measuring the resting current at the battery. Another way I could test it is to not drive the car for a few days and see if it starts after that, but have needed the car every day lately.

As an aside: Assuming it's the problem, I considered sourcing another drive motor for the blind and installing this (apparently it is a common issue that a section of the armature on these fails due to lack of use), but to get to the blind motor is quite involved and requires removing the C pillar trim (as well as the rear seat, parcel shelf and boot lining); so I decided rather than potentially damage the C pillar trim cosmetically, I am going to leave Fuse 50 out. Nothing else seems to be affected by this fuse being out which is good.
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post #30 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 03:53 AM Thread Starter
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Well done chapzboy it looks like you have found the issue and my check of the fuse chart (https://w220.ee/Fuses) shows f50 as servicing the rear blind only so it will not hurt to just leave the fuse out.
What is strange is your measured resting current.
Your photo shows a reading of 02.1 on 200m DCA range.
I interpret that to mean;
200m is 200 milli-amps or 200mA full scale so that means your display will max out at 199.9mA.
Your photo shows 02.1 which will be 2.1mA which is incredibly low. The spec says there should be less than 0.05A or 50mA after the car goes to sleep.
Your car seems to be definitely much less than 50mA, but I am suspicious of the result as it is just far too low.
I would do what Dave suggested and try the test again on your DCA 10A range.
50mA will then be 0.050A on this 10A range.
My 2003 update S500L shows 0.027A or 27mA after going to sleep.
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