Crazy Battery Drain! Please help - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Crazy Battery Drain! Please help

Hey guys....

So I have a bad battery drain, typically overnight. Fuses #3, 6, 9, 29, 31, 33, 34, 41, and 42 are drawing power after the car attempts to sleep! 33 and 34 I am not too worried about as they seem to be the power seat control module, so I assume I can rewire them to ACC on only or something similar that can be found on here.

3 - navigation/TPMS/
6 - AGW
9 - Overhead control panel control unit
29 - Steering column module/ EIS control unit
31 - Upper control panel control unit
41 - Central Gateway Control Unit
42 - ME-SFI/ Driver side SAM control unit

So I am thinking it has to do with the radio/AGW/Headunit perhaps being bad?

They also seem to cycle on and off. #29 and #41 are the highest draw at .11

Any way to definitively test units one by one or does anyone have any insight or ideas?

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 10:17 AM
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The AGW not going to sleep has happened to many members.

With that many fuses acting up I am wondering if one or more SAM modules has failed.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks for the response. Yes I wonder.... The readings seem to cycle from 0 to whatever draw they get too and then hang there a bit and then go back to zero briefly, and then back up. Like something is cycling or waking, and I have heard about the AGW waking up.

I agree a SAM module could be acting up but I dont know how to check individual components and dont want to replace random things. Is there any diagram that shows where the different controllers (that have fuses drawing power) are or SAM units are?

Thanks in advance
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 10:23 AM
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If you know someone with STAR they can pull battery sensor record. If not, follow attachment disregard BCM (N82) reference.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the PDF!!

I do not know anyone with a STAR reader unfortunately. I'm in Chicago in case anyone is local . Does anyone or do you have a recommended Star tool that people have bought and used with good success?

So basically its saying to put the car to sleep and then put my multimeter in series between the negative cable and terminal to check for draw? Then remove the fuses or harness plugs one by one to check for load drop and see what components are on that fuse? Is the BUS the same as the SAM? As it says I can also disconnect control units from the BUS.

I should be able to do this test in a couple hours and report back.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 06:53 PM
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Connect amp meter between negative battery post and negative cable. Trunk open, hood open, left front door open.

Roll up trunk latch to simulate trunk closed, roll up hood latches to simulate hood closed. Prop left front door switch with wedge to simulate door closed. Put orange tape over them.

Wait 40 minutes while watching amp meter. Note final current draw. Less then 40 mA is good.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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So I have done this draw test before and still cannot get the draws to go away. So I did it again slowly last night and still the same result which im not understanding. Pulling every fuse one by one in the trunk, drivers side dash, and under the hood and the only ones that made a change were...

Fuses #
21
22
29
33
34
41
55
64

All of these affected the draw by around .1AMP each. Originally car bounces between .40 - 1.55 Amp draw. With all of these fuses pulled it was still bouncing between .13 - .76

What is causing the readings to continuously bounce up and down and why didnt any single fuse cause that to stop or cause a major drop??

Thanks in advance.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krsone579 View Post
So I have done this draw test before and still cannot get the draws to go away. So I did it again slowly last night and still the same result which im not understanding. Pulling every fuse one by one in the trunk, drivers side dash, and under the hood and the only ones that made a change were...

Fuses #
21
22
29
33
34
41
55
64

All of these affected the draw by around .1AMP each. Originally car bounces between .40 - 1.55 Amp draw. With all of these fuses pulled it was still bouncing between .13 - .76

What is causing the readings to continuously bounce up and down and why didnt any single fuse cause that to stop or cause a major drop??

Thanks in advance.
If your readings jump between 130-760 mA you have not found anything. Are you positive you have trunk, hood, left front door virtually closed?

Go to rear pre-fuse box F33 and disconnect one terminal at the time. All of them are hot so watch for accidental connection to ground.

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w21...l#post17674162

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krsone579 View Post
What is causing the readings to continuously bounce up and down and why didnt any single fuse cause that to stop or cause a major drop??

Thanks in advance.
Your CAN bus is awake. You may try unplug can bus connectors one by and isolate which one (A,B,C) is up and live, and does leaking current stops when bus disconnected. At least two can junctions are in under front door sills.

Note that when you pull fuses or put them back, every time you should wait about 10 minutes (I think 40 min is hugely overestimated time) to let bus go sleep. Sometimes I was measuring leak currents of my W211, and it was about 7 minutes when you heard audible snap and trunk lights went off.

-Do not try this at home -
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Witek_M View Post
If your readings jump between 130-760 mA you have not found anything. Are you positive you have trunk, hood, left front door virtually closed?

Go to rear pre-fuse box F33 and disconnect one terminal at the time. All of them are hot so watch for accidental connection to ground.

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w21...l#post17674162
Yes I am positive the hood trunk and doors were "closed". The readings kept bouncing up and down and pulling fuses did not ever stop the oscillating draw completely. I will check F33 incase I missed it and try some of the things mentioned in the threads everyone shared such as the power wire that feeds F34 fuse box etc and see if I find anything.



Quote:
Originally Posted by mersum1es View Post
Your CAN bus is awake. You may try unplug can bus connectors one by and isolate which one (A,B,C) is up and live, and does leaking current stops when bus disconnected. At least two can junctions are in under front door sills.

Note that when you pull fuses or put them back, every time you should wait about 10 minutes (I think 40 min is hugely overestimated time) to let bus go sleep. Sometimes I was measuring leak currents of my W211, and it was about 7 minutes when you heard audible snap and trunk lights went off.
I believe the manual said 6 mins in between to allow sleep, and I followed that pretty well altho may have went sooner on occasion. I still cannot believe none caused a major change. Where are these CAN bus's exactly and does anyone have any pictures or info/exact locations.

ANOTHER point of interest is the fact that the rear drivers side door does not get power at all. No window, lock, lights, etc, its dead it appears. I took out the rear door controller and it looks to be in good shape and the draw still is there when the rear door is unplugged from the controller. Im wondering if it could be a broken wire in the door jam (although I do not see how to easily remove that rubber boot there to check) or if it could be related but i dont know of course.

Appreciate the help so far and I will check F33 shortly. And I will try to unplug individual things from the can once I get a better understanding haha.
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