2006 E320 CDI - Refurbishing my beloved ride. Looking for things I might miss. - Page 18 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #171 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 09:29 AM
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Vehicle: 2005 E320 CDI, 2010 E350 4MATIC
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Originally Posted by smyers View Post
I decided to stick with the original Sachs shocks and ordered a complete set with parts from FCP Euro. I'm attracted to the slightly stiffer Bilstein B6's or even the B12 kit with mild lowering, but it was hard to argue with the total cost of $430 with shipping on the Sach's set-up on the Memorial day sale this weekend. I was pretty happy with the originals for the first 100K, even though it didn't give me a more sporty handling feel. Since most of my driving is long haul hours at a time, a softer ride is welcome.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...-2113239400kt3
I put the same struts on my 05 CDI. The Sach's replacements are adjustable for multiple applications. Make sure you measure the original spring compression to get the correct ride height. I used a shop to move the springs to the new struts. They did not change the setting as shipped and the car was about 2" too high. I ended up talking my car to a local independent import shop to got the ride height corrected. I think they used the second grove from the bottom.
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post #172 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocky472 View Post
I put the same struts on my 05 CDI. The Sach's replacements are adjustable for multiple applications. Make sure you measure the original spring compression to get the correct ride height. I used a shop to move the springs to the new struts. They did not change the setting as shipped and the car was about 2" too high. I ended up talking my car to a local independent import shop to got the ride height corrected. I think they used the second grove from the bottom.
Thank. No worries there. I've got spring compressors. I've made that error before as well. But I've also got the WIS manual, so it tells you the dimensions to set it to. Still, I'll just measure BEFORE I take the springs off.
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post #173 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 03:42 AM Thread Starter
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@Noodles
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Originally Posted by smyers View Post
...By moving everything around, I've pretty much confirmed it's got to be the "ballast". So the stealership wants $650 for one. It is part 0028202326. Looks like these fall into the $150 range from reputable parts houses and $90 on Amazon. I'm going to try this generic knockoff from Amazon for $28 on Prime. I figure the worst that can happen is it doesn't work and I return it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I put the off-brand ballast in the car, and BOOM; the left Xenon headlight is working once again. So I don't know the longevity of this ballast, but it looks just like the original Hella, down to the casting; it just doesn't say "Made in Germany" on it. So it if lasts half the time as the original, it will be a great value.
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post #174 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smyers View Post
I've ordered a set of these replacement wheels. Mine are pretty bad and it's $200 each to have them refinished, so I opted for some new reproduction wheels.
https://www.wheelership.com/new-16-x...rim-65295.html
I've got some new lug bolts coming from FCP Euro and new center caps from Amazon.
The new reproduction wheels are mounted and balanced. They look great! It's like getting a new pair of shoes for your car. I think a full size spare will fit in the trunk under the bottom cover, so I'll recycle the best of the old wheels for a full size spare when I get new tires next time.
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post #175 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 02:24 PM
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Hmm...those actually do look pretty good.

2000 S430 (Dad's car, used for special occasions)
2000 S500 (wife's DD: my first W220 project car)
2003 S600 ("sex on wheels"--second w220 project car)
2003 S430 (one of two current DD's--third W220 project car)
2005 E320 CDI (the other current DD--first W211 project car)
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post #176 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Hmm...those actually do look pretty good.
Yes. Impossible to tell these wheels from the genuine article and the quality looks really good. Hope they hold up!
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post #177 of 217 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 03:51 AM Thread Starter
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Propeller Shaft Balance (Driveshaft)

It is my understanding that the propeller shaft has to be marked as far as rotation when pulled out to insure it goes back in in the same orientation for proper balance. I looked it up in the WIS and it talks about it, but does explain the details very well. I have a couple questions about that. Just trying to wrap my head around this.

1 - How does this orientation remain proper if the transmission is replaced?
2 - If someone doesn't do this, how can it ever get back to the proper orientation? That's the big question.
3 - What if the entire driveshaft is replaced? (A rare occurrence mind you.)
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post #178 of 217 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 07:53 AM
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The drive shaft can be disconnected in halves on multi-teeth sliding connection and it is important to put it back in the same orientation for proper balance.
Most manufacturers make the connection that it will go back only in the same position, so check the teeth for different pattern and mark the halves just in case.
New shaft will come balanced.


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post #179 of 217 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kajtek1 View Post
The drive shaft can be disconnected in halves on multi-teeth sliding connection and it is important to put it back in the same orientation for proper balance.
Most manufacturers make the connection that it will go back only in the same position, so check the teeth for different pattern and mark the halves just in case.
New shaft will come balanced.
The WIS makes a fuss about not only making sure the center spline stays oriented, but at the flex couplings at the tranny and diff. I get why the splines need to stay aligned. So my questions still remain.
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post #180 of 217 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 05:34 PM
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This is the first time I hear about WIS telling to keep DS oriented at flex coupling (change)
Which one is it?


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