2006 E320 CDI - Refurbishing my beloved ride. Looking for things I might miss. - Page 11 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #101 of 221 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hangit View Post
Thanks. What are prices being paid? I found used on ebay for less than $20, but $170 new.

John
I got mine for under $20 a couple of years ago...no need to buy new IMO.
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post #102 of 221 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Garage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hangit View Post
Thanks. What are prices being paid? I found used on ebay for less than $20, but $170 new.

John
I bought mine used for $11 including shipping on Fleabay, but $20ish seemed about average for a used one. The MB dealers want $175 new. So yes, $170 seems about right.
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post #103 of 221 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Just finished replacing my thermostat, flushing the coolant system, replacing the coolant reservoir, removing the fan shroud cleaning up the front of the engine and replacing the belt. For the record, they didn't make the block drain screw easy to get to, did they?!?! Took me a while just to find it as the WIS doesn't show it for the 648 motor.

And yes, the vacuum filling system is DEFINITELY the way to go to refill the coolant. That is a pretty neat deal. Makes life easy. I was within 1" of the maximum fill cold mark when I took off the cap after filling. I'll never fill a coolant system any other way again! The $89 cheap-o Chinese version of the vacuum pump is just fine and came with every imaginable cap. It's hanging chain is crap, but I just let it hang by the QD fitting with the hose draped over my hood. I had to change out the QD fitting when I got it to fit the QD's I use, but that is simple. The directions sucked, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/28-PCS-Radi...72.m2749.l2649
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post #104 of 221 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 03:45 AM Thread Starter
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I've noted that the rear main seal may need replacing within the next 50K, perhaps sooner. There is definitely oil under the engine in front of the tranny. It looks to be a slow leak, so probably doesn't need replaced tomorrow. Anyone here ever tackled that fun job? I'ts been years since I've done a rear seal, but the last time I did one myself (30+ years ago), I remember the time it took. Dropping the tranny, special tools, etc.

Found it in the WIS STAR maintenance under "Removing/installing the end cover". Of course, there are going to be a lot of other procedures to do before you get to this one in the manual, like dropping the tranny and removing the oil pan.
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post #105 of 221 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 04:11 AM
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I've got that same engine oil residue on the bell housing of my transmission, but the Rear main seal is totally fine on my car. I had the transmission out last month and had a chance to inspect the rear main seal, and after 450k miles the back of the block is still dry.
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post #106 of 221 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossafuss View Post
I've got that same engine oil residue on the bell housing of my transmission, but the Rear main seal is totally fine on my car. I had the transmission out last month and had a chance to inspect the rear main seal, and after 450k miles the back of the block is still dry.
That is GOOD news. No great news.

Scott
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post #107 of 221 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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Injector Drain Fitting O-Rings for OM648

Quote:
Originally Posted by Legodude View Post
orings are easy to get- you can look at a well-stocked hardware store or order online. There are online resources for material compatiblity with fuels. I think NBR is common and good. Mcmaster-carr will have them if you can tag onto an order cheaply.

Please list your resource that you find and the size/part number.

Glad you go the gasket installed....
I've sized the o-rings for the injector drain fittings and found that they are 3.5 x 1 mm. They also appear to be standard Buna-N (NBR). This is actually not an easy size to find locally and I ordered some from Fleabay. $2 for 50 orings... $3 for the shipping! LOL

If anyone wants some, I'll mail them to you no charge. It's the least I can do for the help I've gotten here.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Metric-Buna...72.m2749.l2649

Mine were actually still quite pliable, so I put the originals back into service until new ones arrive. The new drain line is now in place.
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post #108 of 221 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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I stopped by the dealership again today to pick up a few odd small rubber parts and to discuss service I have scheduled Thursday, as well as SBC and power steering flush. While I obviously can do service myself, I do still take it in for A & B service, but I "subtract" out a number of things that I do myself to bring cost down. I like to keep the relationship with the guys at the dealership who work in service.

So I'm having my SBC brakes flushed/bled, as it's been about 2 years. I take no chances with the SBC brakes and make sure full liability is on the dealer, and the fact you can't do it right without the Star service tool. But man has that service went up in price! It was $200 the last time and now it's up to $285. Grrr. I called another independent local shop that I have never used that has the star diagnostics and they quoted me $175, but I am hesitant to let anyone but the dealer touch the SBC system. I'm not sure the money savings is worth the risk on the SBC system. Thoughts? (Yes, I'm aware of the 25 year warranty.)

Power steering flush. I've never attempted it, except in old muscle cars years ago. At 322K miles, the fluid is bound to be pretty oxidized and contaminated with wear particles. Yeah, I know the dealers say "they don't recommend flushing the power steering". My guess is that recommendation is based on a 7 year ownership. The guys in service don't really buy it if you talk to them "off the record", but they have to tow the line with MB. So my problem - I don't know how to flush a power steering system. I see a bleed procedure in the WIS, but I don't see a draining procedure. I know how to do a partial flush without introducing air at all, which is probably good enough and exchanges 80%+ of the fluid.
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post #109 of 221 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 01:49 PM
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Good point about comparing trusted indy mechanic v/s dealer mechanic.
IMHO you see indy mechanic who will work on his car, when at dealer most of "technicians" are former Game Boy guys, who are good with keyboards, but what are their experience in wrenching?
If the indy has MB USA certification, for warranty purpose he is as good as stealer.
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post #110 of 221 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 03:05 PM
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smyes,

That's great news on 300,000 miles. I would always recommend all fluid changes- assume you've done the DIFF. Have you poked around at the rear suspension? The front usually tends to need attention regularly with thrust links and lower ball joints. I would guess, that the rack and pinnion has some isolator bushings- might be good to replace them.
What do you mean by choppy shifting? Are you doing 39000 mile Trans services? Did you replace the solenoids and the conductor plate or just clean the screens on the solenoids?

I would replace the power steering fluid. I would get a OE reservoir as part of the service and then you get new orings/gaskets for installation.
If you are planning on chipping- then you can disable the EGR. You can also use a 47 k ohm resistor to defeat it for future reference. If you do all that- you might want to stream line the mixing pipe... effectively removing restriction.

I'm interested in a headunit which will replace my H-K system.

PM me on the LSD differential. That's on my bucket list. I think the Kompressor one will work-but it hasn't been done yet. I talked to a few shops and got a wow-that's a great idea...
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