4Matic Front Lower Control Arm Outer Bushing - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 02:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
How on earth did you find the part# for that bushing? I searched tirelessly for it years ago, then ended up replacing the entire arm. Its not shown on the EPC either.
I, too, searched tirelessly, but allow me to walk you through my mental process at the time.
I searched by all sorts of keywords and part numbers until I got lucky; I found this item on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
that seemed to be related.
At the time of writing this, it still has only one review:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-r...SIN=B00HCP146U
and the guy said it was for the W211 4Matic. I purchased this Febest bushing (see the unboxing picture below), but turned out to be a cheap chinese after-market that's even more expensive than the LEMFÖRDER. I did not know LEMFÖRDER's part number at the time!

I started by comparing the febest part to what I saw when I jacked the car up for inspection. The rubber pattern, the alumimnum shell and core, and the sizes seemed to match. When searching for https://febestparts.com/ARM_BUSHING_...R_ARM/BZAB-038, I found a lot of pictures coming up in Google images with the 4Matic lower control arm and that bushing was very clear to match.

When I received the Febest bushing, I took the measurements (check pictures) and compared to what's on the car. They matched. When I received Febest, I had already found the cross reference part numbers:
SWAG 10 92 1540
FEBI BILSTEIN 21540
AYWIPARTS AW1420044
LYNXauto C8432
MAPCO 37875
MEYLE 014 033 0091
LEMFÖRDER 2604401
MOOG ME-SB-2730

I just had to return Febest and get the LEMFÖRDER. It is available on eEuroparts and FCPEuro. Of course, I had to pay for the shipping back to Febest USA , but at least I learned something and got the OEM brand!
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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 06:44 AM
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Many thanks!
I'm going to check my bushing due to this thread. I have a long standing clunk over bumps that I've replaced almost everything and I'm going loopy over it. This gives me one additional item to verify, thanks.


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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 06:15 PM
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Thoughts on the condition of mine? They don't seem to flex as much as yours does in the video, but there seems to be a small crack as you can see.

I'm leaning that maybe this is also the clunk I'm getting over bumps? Want to see if you agree since you've had your bushing completely out and probably was able to inspect better.

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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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This is a very clear picture. I can see the cracks and they are not "small"!. Please check the arrows in the first picture.
The reason mine was flexing is becuase I was applying a lot of force with the pry bar. Don't be shy to apply some force with your pry bar. You car puts more load than what you can with your pry bar. This is the only way you can diagnose the issue.

Having said that, I just would like you to note that the bushing is made out of three layers of aluminum as I illustrate in the second picture. The only thing holding the three layers together is the rubber. I believe that once you have cracks in the rubber, the three layers start to clunk together.

Conclusion, your bushing looks as bad as mine was. This is very likely the cause of the clunking you are getting over bumps. It is up to you if you woud like to change it, since you have already replaced the entire arm.

BTW, how difficult was replacing the entire arm? Do you know the procedure that was done to replace it?

Let me know if I can be of any help.
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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 03:59 AM
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Ok great thanks! I’ve ordered two new bushings.

I think the problem originated from the fact I mistakenly torqued the new arm when the car was not on the ground at ride height.

The arm replacement does not require anything special, disconnect the ball joint (lower) and lower strut forks, unbolt, and remove, that’s it.

The engine lifting you are talking about is for the anti roll bar removal. The FSM states it’s required to remove it, however even that you can get around if you grind down an Allen key

I’ve ordered new bushings and will press them in and hopefully that’s going to resolve the issue! It started clunking about 10-15k after I replaced the arm and I’ve replaced the strut, coil, sway bar links, inner arm bushings (they were cracked and twisted already due to my mistake).

I feel like this is the problem finally and am very thankful your thread popped up and made me jog my brain thinking this has GOT to be it!

In addition, my chassisears tells me the noise is from or around this area.

Will update when I get them pressed in


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Last edited by ps2cho; 04-14-2019 at 04:03 AM.
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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:24 PM
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Glad my suggestion helped you. It's a really nice write up.
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Disclaimer: I reserve the right to be wrong, and therefore change my mind about anything at any time, usually for the reason of new information coming to my attention.
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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
Ok great thanks! I’ve ordered two new bushings.

I think the problem originated from the fact I mistakenly torqued the new arm when the car was not on the ground at ride height.
Right, FSM specifically states that suspension components must be torqued where the car is in a "ready to drive" position.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
The arm replacement does not require anything special, disconnect the ball joint (lower) and lower strut forks, unbolt, and remove, that’s it.
Disconnecting the outer ball joint and the strut fork is not the issue. Removing the bolts of inner bushing of the wishbone is. Specific, I am referring to the "front" inner bushing where the bolt is hidden behind the sway bar (what you refer to as the anit-roll bar). Did you get a special wrench for that bolt. It is in a very tight spot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
The engine lifting you are talking about is for the anti roll bar removal. The FSM states it’s required to remove it, however even that you can get around if you grind down an Allen key
Right, makes sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
I’ve ordered new bushings and will press them in and hopefully that’s going to resolve the issue! It started clunking about 10-15k after I replaced the arm and I’ve replaced the strut, coil, sway bar links, inner arm bushings (they were cracked and twisted already due to my mistake).
One thing I forgot to mention is that the bushing has small rubber nipples on one side (see first picture) that are not on the the other (second picture). I noticed that the OEM bushing was installed with the nipples facing towards the front of the car. Not sure if that makes a difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
I feel like this is the problem finally and am very thankful your thread popped up and made me jog my brain thinking this has GOT to be it!

In addition, my chassisears tells me the noise is from or around this area.

Will update when I get them pressed in
Good luck. Awaiting your feedback when you are done.
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Last edited by ezzo; 04-15-2019 at 10:28 PM. Reason: typos
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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 02:18 AM
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The main bushing bolt can also be torqued if you use another jack to raise the steering knuckle up to normal ride height first.
Measure the distance from wheel hub centre to fender when sitting on the ground and later jack it up just the same.
This way the rubber is not twisted when the car is lowered to the ground.
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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezzo View Post
Disconnecting the outer ball joint and the strut fork is not the issue. Removing the bolts of inner bushing of the wishbone is. Specific, I am referring to the "front" inner bushing where the bolt is hidden behind the sway bar (what you refer to as the anit-roll bar). Did you get a special wrench for that bolt. It is in a very tight spot.

Good luck. Awaiting your feedback when you are done.
OK with you now -
There is just enough space to fit a 23/24mm wrench on the nut.

If you already have the camber bolts installed then you’re a little stuck because you can’t untighten it from the bolt end.

What I did to remove the camber bolts was to remove the sway bar. To remove the sway bar upper bolt that is partially blocked by the subframe is to grind down an Allen key. It’s fiddly but it worked for me.

With a non-adjustable Lower arm bolt it’s easy since tou just hold the nut with a wrench and loosen from the bolt-side

My bushing arrives next week so I’ll update in my “suspension knock” thread the weekend after next and then get to the dealer for a true alignment with fresh tires if this fixes the issue (feeling confident this time)


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Last edited by ps2cho; 04-17-2019 at 09:26 AM.
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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Benzyle View Post
The main bushing bolt can also be torqued if you use another jack to raise the steering knuckle up to normal ride height first.
Measure the distance from wheel hub centre to fender when sitting on the ground and later jack it up just the same.
This way the rubber is not twisted when the car is lowered to the ground.
This might work for the shock absorber fork. Although, I did it when the car was on the ground (there is some clearence). So, this may work for some suspension components, but not for all. Think about the sway (stabilizer) bar. the bar has to have the same pressure on bother sides before you torque the nuts of both links.
What you could do, is probably pull the front up on wramps and raise the car from behind to make it leveled with the front. This way, the car's weight is even on both sides of the front suspension components.
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