2008 E350 Control Arms and Ball Joints - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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2008 E350 Control Arms and Ball Joints

I believe it is time to change the bushings and ball joints in my control arms and lower control arms. After over analyzing the numbers and the infinite pursuit of getting a better deal, I am considering replacing all of the bushings and reusing the existing control arms as opposed to buying new control arms. I figure if I have to remove ball joints and press them in, I may as well do the same for the bushings instead of buying new control arms. Total savings is about $250.

I am not sure if I am over simplifying the process or not, so I am looking to the forum for recommendations. I realize it will take some time, but I do not have anything else pressing right now. Thoughts???

SS
2008 E350 Sport
1999 E320 - Sold
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 05:23 PM
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 04:56 PM
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eksantos, since your car is not 4Matic you simply change the bushing and ball joints without having to change the control/thrust arms themselves. A few hours each side. Should not be a big deal.
this is the DIY video you need to watch

Good luck!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I decided to go with new arms as well. Thanks for the input. Hopefully, I will get it done this weekend.

SS
2008 E350 Sport
1999 E320 - Sold
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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When to Torque the Strut and Stabilizer Bar Nuts to Lower Control Arm

When installing a new spring arm or front lower control arm, do you torque the strut and stabilizer bar nuts with the wheels on the ground or can you do it while still jacked up? I know that the sub-frame bolt is done with tires on the ground. I just cannot find a definitive answer regarding the other two nuts. Thanks for any input.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 05:36 PM
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eskantos, always torque the nuts and bolts of all suspension components when the car is in a "ready to drive" position. This means on the ground (leveled on all four wheels).
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information. That will be a little more of a challenge. I have watched too many Youtube videos. Some do, some don't. I just want to make sure that it is done correctly, so again, thanks.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by eksantos View Post
Thanks for the information. That will be a little more of a challenge. I have watched too many Youtube videos. Some do, some don't. I just want to make sure that it is done correctly, so again, thanks.
Here is simple rule. If it has metal center then piece of rubber and metal outer sleeve pressed into something it needs to be tightened with wheels in ready to drive position. Preferably after rolling fore/aft few feet to relieve camber tension.

That applies to anything from Audi to Yugo.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 08:25 AM
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I did mine- wasn't hard. I don't understand on the spring arms? The lower control arms, the inner bushing is the one that fails. Lemforder or OE are the way to go. The nut- it's fine to torque it in the unloaded state because it's to a ball joint. LWR ball joint- easy. Those nuts are all 1-time use I believe and they are torque + angle. I'd buy OE nuts as the ones with the joint can sometimes be completely different. The thrust arm- i would replace it.
Upper ball joints last a bit better, but they are so cheap and easy to replace... I'd do it.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 09:10 AM
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Getting under the car to tighten the control arms is impossible when its on the ground. I slide my homemade wooden ramps under the wheels and lower the vehicle onto the ramps. Then tighten the bolts.
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