P2004? Need new intake manifold? - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2017, 10:11 AM
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Date registered: Jul 2012
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Fix tumble flaps if the car runs fine?

Just drove our 2006 E350 90,000 miles) to Virginia from California. Ran like a top, gas mileage 26+ over 3700 miles (we wander around a bit). Took car to Silver Star Motors in Fairfax for an oil change before the trip back home. The owner Peter advised me that the tumble flap arm is broken and the intake maniforld needed replacement. He did not recommend the replacement arm quick repair. We talked for some time, and I was impressed with his knowledge and shop. He said the flaps are set to the wide open position.

Drove the car back home, still runs fine, same good mileage, no Check Engine Light.
Only change is a slightly "throater" sound at low speeds.

My question is:

Fix it or let it go and see if I pass the biannual smog check next year??
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2017, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteLech View Post
Just drove our 2006 E350 90,000 miles) to Virginia from California. Ran like a top, gas mileage 26+ over 3700 miles (we wander around a bit). Took car to Silver Star Motors in Fairfax for an oil change before the trip back home. The owner Peter advised me that the tumble flap arm is broken and the intake maniforld needed replacement. He did not recommend the replacement arm quick repair. We talked for some time, and I was impressed with his knowledge and shop. He said the flaps are set to the wide open position.

Drove the car back home, still runs fine, same good mileage, no Check Engine Light.
Only change is a slightly "throater" sound at low speeds.

My question is:

Fix it or let it go and see if I pass the biannual smog check next year??
The car will pass smog unless it somehow ends up throwing a code.

But, i recommend fixing it. After i had my manifold replaced there was a major difference in how the engine felt and responded at low rpm's.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2017, 08:11 PM
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It's just going to get worse. I'd fix it now. After extensive reading on the subject, I'd just replace the whole manifold unless you're just interested in a short term fix. While you can just buy the individual part, the inside of the manifold also gets gummed up over time also and even with the new lever, the rods might break as it will be more difficult to move the flaps inside the manifold. If you don't want to worry about it just get a new Pierburg manifold, they were OEM for MB. Probably eeuroparts at $445 or FCPEuro at $455, the latter has a lifetime warranty but if they last 120-160k, you probably won't need it. The kicker is really the labor because I think even if you just replace the lever, it's still going to be 3-4 hours or more to take everything apart. You mind as well just do it once. If you DIY it, I suppose you could just do the lever and do it again in a few years when it acts up again.
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-31-2017, 10:38 AM
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Just an update ...one month later ...car is running great. I have read that some members think you should just bite the bullet and replace the manifold. When I had the manifold off I wiped or cleaned all the ports and checked the plastic flaps and linkage. Everything look great and there was no build up of carbon deposits or dirt anywhere. All the plastic components looked and felt like new. The engine has 138,000km on it. I did the job myself..I would recommend the URO part as it comes with a metal lever and also include a new vacuum actuator with a metal (aluminum) rod. The lever (triangular plastic piece, which affords attached to the 3 rods coming from the vacuum actuators), typically breaks and also the plastic rod coming from the center vacuum actuator. This is why I recommend replacing both the triangular lever and vacuum actuator rod. The URO kit includes both, It also apparently modifies the travel distance so there is less stress on the linkage at the extreme travel locations . My recommendation (with limited experience ) ..if you can DIY opt for the URO fix.If not, have an INDY do it with the new Piersburg manifold.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-31-2017, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CetiAlpha5 View Post
I think even if you just replace the lever, it's still going to be 3-4 hours or more to take everything apart. You mind as well just do it once.
For someone not DIY, how many hour will indy shop charge to replace the whole manifold vs just the lever only.
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-31-2017, 11:10 AM
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The charge would probably be the same as the whole manifold has to be removed to replace just the lever.,.ALLDATA quotes 3 hours labor for re and re of intake manifold .
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-31-2017, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by chiro View Post
The charge would probably be the same as the whole manifold has to be removed to replace just the lever.,.ALLDATA quotes 3 hours labor for re and re of intake manifold .
Thanks,
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-31-2017, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiro View Post
Just an update ...one month later ...car is running great. I have read that some members think you should just bite the bullet and replace the manifold. When I had the manifold off I wiped or cleaned all the ports and checked the plastic flaps and linkage. Everything look great and there was no build up of carbon deposits or dirt anywhere. All the plastic components looked and felt like new. The engine has 138,000km on it. I did the job myself..I would recommend the URO part as it comes with a metal lever and also include a new vacuum actuator with a metal (aluminum) rod. The lever (triangular plastic piece, which affords attached to the 3 rods coming from the vacuum actuators), typically breaks and also the plastic rod coming from the center vacuum actuator. This is why I recommend replacing both the triangular lever and vacuum actuator rod. The URO kit includes both, It also apparently modifies the travel distance so there is less stress on the linkage at the extreme travel locations . My recommendation (with limited experience ) ..if you can DIY opt for the URO fix.If not, have an INDY do it with the new Piersburg manifold.
I thought there were some internal parts that you can't get at that get gummed up. Also with your mileage, it seems a little low, other people report problems in the 120-160k range, mine I think are still original and one is over 110k and the other over 90k. I think your 138k kilometers works out to about 86k in miles. So you may have a while to go before they get gummed up.
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-12-2017, 08:11 AM
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In case of no check engine light and was told by indy shop that the intake manifold need to be replace because the tumble flap arm is broken.
Will MB Star DAS Xentry be able to see if this problem?
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-12-2017, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btv94 View Post
In case of no check engine light and was told by indy shop that the intake manifold need to be replace because the tumble flap arm is broken.
Will MB Star DAS Xentry be able to see if this problem?
If the lever is broken, the arms should be in one position or another so either it's tuned for low or high rpm and you should either have problems at low or high rpms and you should notice performance problems. And the codes mentioned are regular CEL codes, not MB specific.
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