2005 CDI Motor Mounts - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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2005 CDI Motor Mounts

I have a 2005 E320 CDI and I just did the motor mounts. Everyone is right what a difference it makes. Anyway I wanted to pass on some information about the job. In my opinion is was easier than I thought it was going to be. As usual I did my homework and read all the threads I could so I wanted to add what I learned.

Lesson learned - you do not need to take any tires off and you don't need to remove the front undercarriage cover. Don't waste you time.


#1 lesson learned - Everyone was complaining about the passenger side mount. You have to take the attach bracket off the engine with the motor mount installed and how hard it is to get to the attach bracket to engine bolts. It is a lot easier if you loosen all of them and remove the top two bolts before you do anything. You might even be able to remove all 4 but I wasn't sure. In my opinion it was very easy to do. The engine jack was not in the way the the motor was low so really you have good access. You will need a low profile ratchet for the top left because of the CAT and you need a stubby ratchet for the top right but with those tools it was easy.

#2 lesson learned. Jack from the Bell housing between the engine and transmission. Take the load and then remove the transmission mount and the whole assembly will jack up nice and easy. If you don't you will be trying to rip the transmission mount out as you jack up. Do not jack up under the oil pad but lift from the bell housing which is plenty strong. I was able to take the bottom two bolts out of the tranny mount and it was easy. I had no issues jacking the engine up nice and high so the mounts came out and went in easy.

#3 lesson learned - after jacking up when trying to remove the passenger side mount. You have to take the motor mount off with the engine mount because you can't get to the top bolt of the motor mount. Since there is not enough room to get them out (together) you have to break the top motor mount bolt. When I rotated the assembly around to remove the bolt I could not break the torque, I could not hold the assembly tight enough to break the torque. I used an impact gun and got it to come right off so be prepared for that.

#4 Lesson learned - Both of the mounts I purchased came with the white duct cover. On the driver sided I could not get the assembly to go together with the dust cover, I could not get the top bolt installed. I was doing it by myself so maybe I could have installed it if I had a helper. I tried it for over a half an hour and finally gave up and got rid of the cover and it went together in 2 minutes after that.

I did not torque anything just tightened everything wrench tight plus a 1/4 turn.

Here are the instruction I was trying to follow from another thread, I will attach a bunch of pictures.


This was the best instruction I found
Here is a step by step description of what was done, together with PITA code, ranging from 1 to 10 with 1 being the lowest.

1. Lift the car on stands. You will have some work to do under it. Two in the front is mandatory, but four are better and more convenient. Lift it high enough, so you could work relatively comfortably under the car. I did it with two.

2. Remove all 3 soundproof panels under the car.

3. Open the hood and remove the top engine covers.

4. Remove the right (passenger side) front wheel. You will need as much space as possible to work there. Removing the left frontwheel is optional. I don’t think it makes a difference.

5. Unbolt the two mount bolts from theundercarriage – PITA 2. Wrench size 13 mm, they are easily removed with socket and extension.

6. Lift the engine with your floor jack. Initially you need to lift it no more than 1-1/2 inch. PITA – 5. Good floor jack is necessary in this step. Be careful there! Slide the jack under the front center of the car. Find the imaginable lateral axis below the engine that connects the two engine mounts. That is where the engine is balanced and where you should lift it. The point is about the middle of the oil pan, 2-3 inches ahead of the drain plug. Put 1 or 2 square pieces of wood on the jack to distribute the pressure surface on the oil pan as evenly as possible. Start lifting SLOWLY and CAREFULLY. Thatis where the second guy comes into play. While one is lifting, the second is watching under the car the process. You must not allow any damage or deformation on the oil pan.

7. Time to remove the rear transmission mount from under the car. PITA – 3. Two bolts 16mm wrench connect the mount to the transmission. Two bolts 13 mm wrench connect it to the chassis. All of them are easily removed. Slide out the rear transmission mount and install the new one.

8. Unbolt the top bolt of the left engine mountwith wrench 16 mm. PITA – 4. This is done from the top of the engine with regular box wrench. Slide the engine mount out. Insert the new engine mount in place and put in place the bolt from the bottom of the chassis. Do not tighten it yet. Later you will need to adjust the mount and insert the top bolt. It is easier to work if you can move a little the mount around.

9. Remove the right mount. PITA – 9. This is the most interesting part where you likely will spend most of your time. MB DVD states that the mount cannot be taken out by itself. You must first detach the right engine support from the crankcase to which the top of the mount is attached and then unbolt the mount itself. That is correct. There is not enough space there to work comfortably. The top right screw of the console is the worst one. It is almost invisible and inaccessible. The console is bolted to the engine block with four screws external torx 12. I was able to take out the top right screw with long torx socket and ratchet with small head. The other bolts are relatively easy to unscrew from under the car.

10. When the support is detached, you can rotate the entire assembly in such a way that you can easily unscrew the top bolt from the mount. You do not have to take the entire assembly out. You just need to access the top screw to remove it. This is also done from under the car. Slide the freed right mount out, insert the new one, match the notch in the console to the one in the mount and put the top screw back. If you do not have enough gap to remove the old mount, lift the engine a little bit. Do not overdo it. Put the support back in place and tighten the bolts back. It sounds easy but the place is tight, so patience and persistence is important.

11. Lower the engine a little bit and put the bottom screw of the right mount back in place. Do not tighten yet.

12. Lower the engine a little more. Go back to the left mount, match the notch to the mount and put the top bolt. Do not tighten yet.

13. SLOWLY lower the engine. Watch it to go back in place with the mounts properly positioned.

14. When you are sure everything is seated properly, mounts are in place in their notches, without being squeezed or deformed, andthe engine is sitting securely and solidly in place, go ahead and tighten securely the bottom and top bolts.

Put all the covers back and you are done.

My old mounts were all fried and cracked. They were about ¾ inch lower than the new mounts and now the engine sits a little bit higher.There are definitely less vibrations and the engine runs smoother than before. If you have questions, please ask. It was well worth the experience but if youare doing it to save money, in my case $180, it is probably not worth it. Ifyou have to pay dealer prices… well it is up to you.[/COLOR]
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Noodles, aeubank and cowboyt like this.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-19-2016, 02:32 PM
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Great writeup!!

I removed the passenger side mount without removing the motor bracket. I removed the bottom bolts first, jacked up the engine, and then used a shorty 3/8 ratchet with a 16mm and the bolt came right out.

It was easy threading the new mount past the catalytic converter.

I would give this a PITA of a 5 or 6.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-25-2016, 10:13 AM
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Great write up. I agree with Aeubank, that loosening the passenger side mounting bracket is not necessary. The top bolt on the passenger side mount can be loosened and removed without high PITA factor. Mine was too tight to loosen with a stubby. Access is from the underside between the bracket and the radiator. I used a 16mm swivel head ratchet box combo, Lowes carries these. To get leverage on the wrench I interlocked another box end to the open end. I used the same set up to crank it down, since there is no access for a torque wrench. See Pic.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 01:28 PM
ot1
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Was unbolting the CAT from the exhaust pipe necessary since the exhaust pipe is bolted to the car's underbody?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-12-2018, 04:48 PM
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No need to remove the exhaust nor the passenger side bracket. Jacked up the engine and slide the old one out and new one in. It came out by going aft down the exhaust path area.

Torquing is a bit tricky. I was able to use a offest(SAE ) dog bone and a swivel on an extension. Makes up for the weird angle- honestly, german-tight is fine.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-14-2018, 03:55 AM
ot1
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Arrow 2006 E320 Engine Mounts/ Motor Mounts

Here is my experience replacing the tranny and engine mounts on 06 E320 CDI-OM 648. Both engine mounts once unbolted from the brackets are removed rearward, not sideways or forward. Using a flex head combo wrench, non-stubby, allows access to the top bolt on the right side, I found the wrench long enough.
I used OEM Mercedes parts: R-2112403017, L-2112400417, T-2122403018

About RAMPS: DO NOT TRUST the 12,000 pound Rhino/Gorilla plastic ramps from Home Depot, I bought these from there, drove another car up on them, went for parts and returned to find one of the ramps had collapsed. It was 90 degrees out on concrete. So I made wooden ramps from 2 x 10s with board lengths 38",34",30",26",22",18", screwed together with 3" screws, (6) torx head screws per board, bevel one end to 45 degrees to make driving up a breeze, the top board has a 3"x 3" chock screwed down with two 6" screws. You can easily negotiate driving up them by yourself if you count the steps to know when you are on the top board. (Note: your better off judging when your at the top without good help because a wifey or drunk friend won't put their hand up in time anyway.) I also put a steel fold down handle ($3.50) on the sides 5" from the back and centered. It makes handling them easier. AND ONCE YOUR UP THE RAMP CHOCK THE REAR WHEEL.

Tools: floor jack, ramps for at least 8" height, creeper (the $20 plastic one from Harbor Freight is pretty crappy and drags terribly on level smooth concrete, I weigh 180. So I am going to invest in a better one, soon), (2) 18" inch locking extensions (Harbor Freight), 3" 3/8" extension, 3/8" drive impact type swivel, 3/8" breaker bar ratchet, 5/8" or 16mm flex head combo wrench (Gearwrench 9710), 3/8" drive sockets: 16mm socket, 13mm socket, 12mm socket, E12 socket. 7mil Nitrile gloves (Harbor Freight), leather gloves, rubber wheel chock (Harbor Freight)



Step MOD 3 and 4: The following 3 and 4 steps are TOTALLY UNNECESSARY in the writeup:

3. Open the hood and remove the top engine covers.

4. Remove the right (passenger side) front wheel. You will need as much space as possible to work there. Removing the left front wheel is optional. I don’t think it makes a difference.

----------------
5. Unbolt the two mount bolts from the undercarriage – PITA 2. Wrench size 13 mm, they are easily removed with socket and extension.

Step MOD 5a: remove the TWO bottom bolts (13mm) on the trans mount BEFORE JACKING the engine at the bell housing, if you jack before removing the TWO trans bolts you will put stress on the trans cross member and tranny!

Step MOD 6: IF YOU JACK ON THE OIL PAN remember it costs $500!! not including labor!!!


Instead I jacked on the trans bell housing, its beefier, but


DO NOT JACK THE ENGINE UP UNTIL STEP 7c so skip step 6!


6. Lift the engine with your floor jack. Initially you need to lift it no more than 1-1/2 inch. PITA – 5. Good floor jack is necessary in this step. Be careful there! Slide the jack under the front center of the car. Find the imaginable lateral axis below the engine that connects the two engine mounts. That is where the engine is balanced and where you should lift it. The point is about the middle of the oil pan, 2-3 inches ahead of the drain plug. Put 1 or 2 square pieces of wood on the jack to distribute the pressure surface on the oil pan as evenly as possible. Start lifting SLOWLY and CAREFULLY. Thatis where the second guy comes into play. While one is lifting, the second is watching under the car the process. You must not allow any damage or deformation on the oil pan.

Step MOD 7: the bottom trans mount bolts should have already been removed (Step 5a), go ahead and remove the two side bolts (16mm), but you can't remove the trans mount yet BECAUSE you haven't jacked up the engine YET!!

7. Time to remove the rear transmission mount from under the car. PITA – 3. Two bolts 16mm wrench connect the mount to the transmission. Two bolts 13 mm wrench connect it to the chassis. All of them are easily removed. Slide out the rear transmission mount and install the new one.

Step 7a mod:
On the right side engine mount bracket, the bottom rear bracket bolt secures a cable harness loom, removing the bolt (E12) frees the loom and allows an extra inch of clearance when removing the engine mount.

Step 7b: On the exhaust pipe there is a hanger just past the coupler, this is to the rear of the CAT. There are two studs on the hanger clip, remove the two nuts and the clip. This allows the exhaust pipe to move upward with the engine when jacking it up.

Step 7c: NOW YOU CAN JACK THE ENGINE. Remember as you begin to jack up the engine, you are taking a load off the springs so the whole car will be moving upward at first, continue jacking it up slowly until you see about a 5/8" clearance between the bottom of the engine mount and subframe. You don't need an 1-1/2" clearance as stated in the writeup.

Step MOD 8: remove the right side top bolt with the 16mm or 5/8" flex head wrench from underneath, access will be forward of the mount. Metric fasteners on your machine but you can use a 5/8" flex wrench in lieu of the 16mm. THERE IS NO SLOP, so a 5/8" fits perfectly. 16mm = .063", 5/8" = .0625". Make sure the wrench is fully seated because you can't see it and you are going to be applying a lot of force to crack the bolt loose, you do not want to butter up the bolt head!! Wear a leather glove on your wrench hand, it will allow you to apply a greater force.

Step MOD 8a: remove the left side top bolt from the topside of the car with the long extensions and impact swivel, down along side of the top engine cover you didn't need to remove.

Both mounts are removed rearward/aft.

When installing the new mounts, put in the top bolts first making sure the pin is aligned into the groove. Just finger tighten top bolts to allow alignment of bottom bolts.

With the trans mount side bolts installed, lower vehicle until the bottom of the engine mounts have about 1/4" of clearance between the bottom of the mount and the subframe.

Finger tighten bottom bolts on ALL mounts, tranny mount included.

Lower the engine, tighten top bolts first, make sure the mount pin is still engaged in the groove, then tighten ALL bottom bolts (4 total).

Torque everything, 25Nm on the bracket bolt (E12), bottom bolts (13mm) 30Nm, top bolts 45Nm.

Replace bracket bolt (E12) and loom, and exhaust pipe hanger clip and the 2 nuts.

Install the bottom panels.

YOU ARE FINISHED!!! This job is not difficult if you follow the steps in order!!

WAIT, Close the hood and start your engine and put the car in REVERSE to pull off the ramps!!! AFTER YOU HAVE REMOVED THE REAR WHEEL CHOCK

Last edited by ot1; 04-14-2018 at 12:58 PM.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-19-2018, 01:21 PM
ot1
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Motor mount safety

Back to changing motor mounts using ramps, I forgot to mention something about SAFETY when using ramps. As you jack up the engine at the bell housing, the frame height moves upward relative to the ground as you unload the engine. If you are under the vehicle and the jack blows out, IT COULD CRUSH YOU if you are back by the transmission where clearance would be less. So once you lift the engine put two jack stands under the frame.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 02:05 PM
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On my 05 CDI, I discovered that the exhaust system keeps engine from being jacked up evenly(it rotates) this is why most folks remove RS bracket.
I just inserted 2 foot tool into lift ring and put strap to left side of body-then jacked engine evenly up couple inches, makes right side easy to change just like left. Wish I took pic, but super easy, very light hand force needed with a 2 ft screwdriver.
No need to mess with bracket(just need a flex head ratchet to get the bolts, no panels to remove, no tranny mount removal) <30 min for shure.
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