Has my oil pump failed? - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Has my oil pump failed?

2004 E320 Wagon 150k miles.

The engine was very quiet when running since I bought it in January.
About a month ago after the driveshaft was replaced (the u joint broke) I started noticing engine noise when it warmed up. It seems to be coming from the top of the engine. The local mechanic suggested an oil change since I wasn't aware of how long it had gone since the last one.

I did this myself, 8 quarts of Mobile 1 0w40 European car formula and a new filter. The noise proceeded to get worse. It now sounds like a very noisy diesel when it warms up and I stopped driving it. I had it tested and the shop said the oil pressure was dropping below spec when it warmed up. They quoted 1k to pull the pan and clean the screen, 3k to replace the oil pump if necessary.

Does this seem reasonable?

At this point with previous repairs (since the driveshaft beat the crap out of some things underneath) I will be into more than I paid for the car with this latest repair so I was thinking of doing it myself or giving up on the car. Is this a difficult repair (need to lift the engine?). I've removed pans and fixed oil pumps before (on Saabs).

Are there other options (like heavier oil)?

Thanks for any ideas!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 04:40 PM
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$1k to drop the pan sure seems like a lot, and what kind of debris do they expect to find on the screen?

If the screen is clogged somehow (which I doubt), changing to heavier oil would make a starvation situation worse.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 04:56 PM
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Before replacing anything, I would check the oil pickup tube screen and make sure its not clogged. If your mechanic quoted you $1000 for screen inspection and $3000 for pump replacement......... I would get a 2nd quote, these numbers sound a bit high.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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I decided to do the job myself.
It definitely wasn't worth 3k.

Dropped the pan, easy except I broke it trying to get it loose. Got another on ebay for a reasonable price.
The screen was of course not plugged.
There was what seemed to me to be a lot of superfine metallic particles in the bottom of the pan. Enough to run your finger through and feel some depth. Maybe a 1/32 of an inch?
Pulled the pump. Took it apart. It seemed fine to me but I replaced it anyway.
Everything back together, new oil (mobil1 0w-40), new filter (mann) it's pretty much the same. Maybe a little quieter when it warms up but still:
quiet as can be when cold
lots and lots of top end noise when warm.

Thinking about it more, I'm wondering if perhaps lines to the oil cooler (this car has one, right?) might have gotten damaged, (perhaps crimped?) when the rear drive shaft broke and whacked things underneath and the shop that fixed it didn't notice that?

Can anyone clue me in on where the oil cooler is located and if there are external oil lines running to it?

TIA
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 04:20 PM
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Lots of super fine metal particles in the oil pan and lots of top end noise when warm. Sounds like you have more than an oil issue. That metal came from somewhere. Something is coming apart. Since you stated that the oil pressures were reading low that might have caused the issue but all that metal indicates you now have a bigger issue.
What was the oil pressure readings after you changed the pump?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tonyjroy View Post
Lots of super fine metal particles in the oil pan and lots of top end noise when warm. Sounds like you have more than an oil issue. That metal came from somewhere. Something is coming apart. Since you stated that the oil pressures were reading low that might have caused the issue but all that metal indicates you now have a bigger issue.
What was the oil pressure readings after you changed the pump?
I had a shop measure the pressure before, just that cost a couple hundred. I'm going to get the equipment to measure it myself.
Since the instrument cluster doesn't have anything to indicate oil pressure or failure (that I can find), I'm wondering how/where the shop measured it?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by edwarde320 View Post
I had a shop measure the pressure before, just that cost a couple hundred. I'm going to get the equipment to measure it myself.
Since the instrument cluster doesn't have anything to indicate oil pressure or failure (that I can find), I'm wondering how/where the shop measured it?
There's a test port on the front of the timing case, kind of diamond shaped cover, a little above and to the right of the tensioner. The center threads out and the pressure fitting for the gauge threads in.




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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by edwarde320 View Post
I decided to do the job myself.

It definitely wasn't worth 3k.





Can anyone clue me in on where the oil cooler is located and if there are external oil lines running to it?



TIA

On the gas 320's the oil cooler is attached to the oil filter housing, if so equipped.
I thought the coolers were only on the v8's.

Skippy

Skippy,
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 07:33 PM
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For the M112 and M113 engines the coolers are only on the V8s.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Noodles View Post
For the M112 and M113 engines the coolers are only on the V8s.
Thanks.

I'm mystified. I'm going to have one last place look at it before I give up..
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