Diesel Purge - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 12:10 PM
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i am interested to see if you get any change in mpg after the purge

makes sense to me some of these higher mileage cars would benefit from this

keep us up to date

2006 E320 CDI
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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-27-2015, 08:35 AM
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Agree that there seems to be two flavors of sound, a sharp sound with a clear space between pulses and the other is blurry.
Sounded like three of each though I couldn't see each move of the probe.
Sure would be useful to do the same test on another vehicle.
Skippy

Skippy,
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkippyJasper View Post
Agree that there seems to be two flavors of sound, a sharp sound with a clear space between pulses and the other is blurry.
Sounded like three of each though I couldn't see each move of the probe.
Sure would be useful to do the same test on another vehicle.
Skippy
I agree with you, 3 seem muddled and muted while the other 3 are more crisp. In person(with sound powered headphones on) the difference is more evident, but this video is pretty good as far as the audio goes. Yup, It would be nice to hear another vehicle like this to compare them. If anyone's near Vero Beach Florida let me know and we can take a quick un-obtrusive listen


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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 05:04 PM
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In other news today I was able to get some work done on the fuel system cleaner setup. I installed some fittings, made up some fuel system hoses, and was able to test my recently rebuilt fuel pump and 1 Liter aux fuel container. My setup is about half way done. The next issue to resolve is coming up with a good way to tap into the vehicles fuel tank discharge and return line. Most likely I will tap the two stainless steel lines just down from the top of the aluminum intake manifold on the drivers side. That seems like a good place to break into the system. By the way, the rotary vane based electric fuel pump ran and pumped fuel down to a few volts DC and around 700mA. I tested it with diesel first, and flushed the system with gasoline after that to make sure my lines and pump were free of any assembly debris. It was nice to see the system take fuel from my aux fuel container, through the pump and back into the container. Not overly impressive I know, but at least to this point I know with certainly that part works well and appears to be functioning as imagined/designed. I will be controlling the voltage/current to the fuel pump in order to regulate the discharge pressure. With any luck I will get some photos posted tonight or tomorrow.


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Last edited by Josh8loop; 07-15-2015 at 09:26 PM.
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by cvincent View Post
i am interested to see if you get any change in mpg after the purge

makes sense to me some of these higher mileage cars would benefit from this

keep us up to date
Me too. I recently did a all Hwy trip, and only got 33 MPG which is 6 down from where I would normally be. No CEL's, and last time I had it scanned nothing showed up in the self diagnostic tests. Frustrating!


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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-09-2015, 08:05 AM
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Ok, Here are some photos:






Above: Here are some of the raw materials. Fuel tubing and plastic fuel system fittings came from a early-mid 2000 VW Jetta with a 1.8T motor. Most of the jettas with 4-8 cylinder engines of this vintage use the same fuel system fittings. The scrap yards will most likely cut the fuel lines at the back of the vehicle when they remove the fuel tank. Every now and again you find one that is whole with a male connector on one end and a female connector on the other-this time I got lucky Make sure to get any of those you can find.



Below: Beginning fuel system quick disconnect disassembly. Side cutters can be helpful.






Above: Metal clamp is starting to pull away from the fitting.

Below: The metal clamp finally came off. Now time to use the side cutters to gently cut into the side of the rubber hose.







Above: The side of the rubber hose is now cut exposing some of the braided reinforcement. This allows the rubber hose to come off much easier without damaging the plastic fitting.

Below: The rubber hose came off and the fitting is now ready for use.






Above: This is my 1 liter aux fuel tank I will use to put the fuel injection system cleaner into. I used some of the plastic fuel system lines with the male ends on them, undersized a couple of holes in the blue lid, heated the blue plastic up with torch and pressed the plastic lines into it. After cooling with cold water the plastic fuel line male fittings are now secured to the lid and won't pull out.


Below: Closer shot of the aux fuel tank lid.







Above: Now the female fuel line connectors slip right over the male section with no problem. Having quick disconnect functionality is really nice.


Below: Beginning the process of hooking the female quick disconnect fittings to the fuel pump. I used a short scavenged section of 5/16" fuel system hose to connect the fittings.







Above: Quick disconnects now attached. I used some scavenged stainless steel quick click clamps to secure the discharge side of the pump. I always try to scavenge the SS clamps when I'm at the junk yard.

Below: Here is the aux fuel tank connected with the fuel pump.








Above: I have begun the variable voltage setup for my fuel pump. I used a cheap premade module from Ebay based on the LM2596. Here is a listing for a similar one like I used:

5pcs Output 1 23V 30V DC DC Buck Converter Step Down Module LM2596 Power Supply | eBay



Below: Close up of the module. I still need to connect some additional wires onto the module so I can connect it to my power supply. Subsequent testing revealed that the 3A limit of this module wasn't enough to run the fuel pump at 25 psi needed for the system. Perhaps two in parallel would be better or a single module with higher current carrying capability. The modules can take up to 36 VDC input, so an old power supply brick from a computer charger or even an old printer power brick would be good for the input voltage.



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Last edited by Josh8loop; 07-15-2015 at 09:36 PM.
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-13-2015, 01:20 PM
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Got some more work done on the diesel purge system this weekend. I went ahead and hooked up a power brick from a computer(16 VDC, 3A) to the LM2596 variable voltage module/fuel pump assembly. I also went ahead and tapped into the fuel system supply and return lines where the rubber lines connect to the stainless steel hose barbs just down from the top of the aluminum intake manifold on the drivers side of the vehicle. Now I can quickly tap my diesel purge system into the cars fuel system. I found out the in tank fuel lift pump pumps about 600ml of fuel every time you turn the key to the position 2 just before you start the vehicle. Also, the pump is on a timer of some sort since it comes on and then turns off most likely as a purge of sorts to ensure no air is in the fuel system.

I might go ahead and re-test the lift pump fuel pressure supplying the HP fuel pump just to verify my previous measurement that way I can set this diesel purge aux pump to the same pressure. Looks like I may go ahead and mount the fuel pump, power brick, and voltage control module to a thick plastic cutting board. This will keep things together nicely I believe. I also need to get the O-scope hooked up to my pick up coil and figure out what the PWM value is on both the quantity control valve, and rail pressure regulator valve. I want to know what the expected PWM values are at idle on a heated up engine before I do the purge, and after I do the purge. This will also be a good general point of information for future troubleshooting. I will be looking for large deviations in PWM percentage change before the diesel purge and after. Once I have all that information put together hooking up and running the diesel purge system will be pretty straight forward now that I have my fuel system tap fittings installed.


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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-13-2015, 09:47 PM
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very impressive thread and project

anxious to see what the results of the purge are

thanks for keeping us up to date

2006 E320 CDI
2008 ML320 CDI
2008 GL320 CDI
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by cvincent View Post
very impressive thread and project

anxious to see what the results of the purge are

thanks for keeping us up to date

No problem. Lots of learning done on these little projects. Many mistakes that turn into learning opportunities to share with the group. Actually to that end, I found out that the pressure required to operate the fuel injection system and hence the engine is a minimum of 25 psi. to the high pressure fuel pump. Which brings us to the following......


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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 10:41 PM
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I finished mounting the pump, power supply circuit and power brick to a cheap plastic cutting board the other day. I also took some pictures of how I formed the plastic fuel system lines so that they hook up to the quick disconnect fittings.







Above: Here is the fuel injection system attached to the backboard. This keeps everything nicely in place and gives it a clean and organized look.

Below: Same system but showing the little jumper used to loop the supply and return lines from the tank. Also show the aux fuel container I will be using to hold the fuel injection system cleaner.










Above: Here are the two different styles of fitting encountered on the VW fuel system. One hooks to the rubber fuel lines, and the other(with the O ring recess) hooks to the plastic fuel line directly.

Below: I used some Viton O rings and prepared a quick disconnect elbow for re-use.












Above: I used a propane torch and a phillips head screw driver of the appropriate size to help thermo form the plastic fuel line to the fittings. It's an art to heating the screw driver just enough to soften the tubing while not being too hot and melting the tubing. With some practice I got the hang of it finally

Below: Once the screw driver is heated it can be inserted into the tubing with a gentle turning motion. Once the tubing is softened the fitting can then be inserted. The vice with a thin rubber over the jaws holds the tubing well enough to assist in the operation.









Above: Here are my fuel lines before I inserted quick disconnect fittings. The smaller diameter upper hose was deteriorating on the outside to the point where the rubber was disintegrating when wiped gently with a wet rag. The lower larger diameter hose must be made of a different material on the outside since it wasn't deteriorating. Kind of glad I found this issue before it became a problem.

Below: This is how it looks after I made the modification. I happened to have some clearish Teflon tubing around so I used that for the lower pressure discharge fuel line. I am not 100% happy with how this came out, and will be making better sense of all this in the near future. Good enough for now though.




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