How advanced is AC Compressor Clutch replacement? - Page 4 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #31 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 03:45 PM
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If there are no unusual noises like you experienced, then you could scan the post CAT O2 sensors at each bank using a scanner. If the line is straight (graphically) within limits, not jumping up and down like a yo-yo (following the pre-cat sensors), then the cats should be doing what they are doing.

Regarding the tapping like noise, I had someone complaining about it and the technician indicated that it was the CAT. Having had a look at it, it turned out to be a bent heat-shield. Bending it back stopped the noise.
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post #32 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 02:53 PM
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@tmabiker

How did you go about getting the a/c fixed ? Did you get the compressor changed out ?

You jinxed me, as Deplore would say


This morning I was waiting for my son to pick up breakfast stuff in the car, with the a/c running very well. For some reason, I decided to check pressure, and the other sensors to ensure all are OK. Then suddenly I heard a popping noise coming from under the hood, and then this burning smell. I thought the belt got hot and snapped. Opened the hood and the smoke was coming from the compressor pulley. Got the fault codes (I have a printout in my glove compartment as I may not remember the fault code meanings ). There it was, B1419 which cannot be cleared out.

Turned the a/c off off just in case, came home, and then tried to turn the 10 mm hub bolt. It would turn about half a turn either direction. I believe something inside the compressor broke and preventing it to turn more. I had tell-tale signs like greenish stain on the garage floor recently, so it may be that it started leaking at some point, and struggled to run for a while before it quit.

Oh well, after 21 years of service, time for a new compressor, and a drier. I will not do the job myself, as I do not get under the car anymore. My mechanic friend has the equipment and the experience in changing out many compressors.

I have been experiencing slightly rough idle (in Drive) with the a/c on recently, and the idle was smooth with the a/c turned off. I wonder if this was due to an ailing compressor (may be one of the shaft connections inside snapped so the compressor was running out of balance?). We will see.
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post #33 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mrboca View Post
@tmabiker

How did you go about getting the a/c fixed ? Did you get the compressor changed out ?

You jinxed me, as Deplore would say


This morning I was waiting for my son to pick up breakfast stuff in the car, with the a/c running very well. For some reason, I decided to check pressure, and the other sensors to ensure all are OK. Then suddenly I heard a popping noise coming from under the hood, and then this burning smell. I thought the belt got hot and snapped. Opened the hood and the smoke was coming from the compressor pulley. Got the fault codes (I have a printout in my glove compartment as I may not remember the fault code meanings ). There it was, B1419 which cannot be cleared out.

Turned the a/c off off just in case, came home, and then tried to turn the 10 mm hub bolt. It would turn about half a turn either direction. I believe something inside the compressor broke and preventing it to turn more. I had tell-tale signs like greenish stain on the garage floor recently, so it may be that it started leaking at some point, and struggled to run for a while before it quit.

Oh well, after 21 years of service, time for a new compressor, and a drier. I will not do the job myself, as I do not get under the car anymore. My mechanic friend has the equipment and the experience in changing out many compressors.

I have been experiencing slightly rough idle (in Drive) with the a/c on recently, and the idle was smooth with the a/c turned off. I wonder if this was due to an ailing compressor (may be one of the shaft connections inside snapped so the compressor was running out of balance?). We will see.
That's why I cringe when you gents suggest topping off a/c.

Along with refrigerant loss there is always oil loss. It may be small, just a little wet spot but it's still a loss.

I bought my E320 with 60K in 2006. It was cooling normal. First thing I did was to recover refrigerant and measured recovered oil. There was none. Put two ounces of Ester oil in, run it for few minutes and recovered. Again no oil recovered. Added two more ounces. Recovered one ounce. Put that ounce of fresh oil back in. Now at 138k it still cools well. My normal evaporator temp is around 35F. Compressor turns off at 34F.
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post #34 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Witek_M View Post
That's why I cringe when you gents suggest topping off a/c.

Along with refrigerant loss there is always oil loss. It may be small, just a little wet spot but it's still a loss.

I bought my E320 with 60K in 2006. It was cooling normal. First thing I did was to recover refrigerant and measured recovered oil. There was none. Put two ounces of Ester oil in, run it for few minutes and recovered. Again no oil recovered. Added two more ounces. Recovered one ounce. Put that ounce of fresh oil back in. Now at 138k it still cools well. My normal evaporator temp is around 35F. Compressor turns off at 34F.
So if the car when you bought it, did not seem to have any recovered compressor oil, and you had no leak at that time, where did the original oil go?

How much oil are you supposed to be recovering, if the system has 1 kg of R134A (full charge) and 120 milliliters of oil (full charge) in the compressor ?

If the compressor is leaking at the seals and/or the at the shaft, adding oil and / or refrigerant is a losing proposition anyway, delaying the inevitable.
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post #35 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 05:14 PM
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Small leak will not leak the oil. Otherwise it would be easy to spot big oil stain, like it happens with intercooler leaks.
So-called drier is actually accumulator. It can hold probably close to 1 kg of excess oil and junk.
Check if you system still has glass on the drier. This way you can see how much oil flows with refrigerant.
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post #36 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 09:42 AM
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Sight glass on a drier ? you've got to be kidding My car is 1998 not 1988 model . No need for a sight glass when you have pressure sensor. The controller will do the checking for you.

I do not buy that the receiver / drier holds 1 kg of oil (that is almost 1.2 liters , per 0.825 specific density). Unless the a/c is running on oil, not the refrigerant . The compressor holds 90 percent of the oil (where it is needed, as it is the only moving part).
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post #37 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Mrboca witekm Well sorry boca maybe my compressor was in cahoots with yours, although I think 20+ years is probably good for any car part too. I’m glad I didn’t try to tackle it myself since I finally found a good mechanic (zero frills, zero price gauging) who did the compressor and cat for the same price as others were charging for just one, 1600. Also glad you talked me out of trying to recharge it. Never saw the old compressor to figure out exactly what went wrong. On a road trip right now and really glad to have them both back in action, and it sounds like we know why the REST has never worked, some kind of electrical prob which also causes the ac to not remember it’s settings. Only concern right now with the car is wondering about the flex disc, which is also original. Don’t seem to have any major symptoms but hopefully it will cause some small ones or get replaced before grenading. Good luck with yours, this is the time of year for me where ac is really nice to have.

Last edited by tmabiker; 05-27-2019 at 02:30 PM.
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post #38 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 06:23 PM
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compressor clutch

Answer to original question. Buy a new compressor. Replacing the clutch is really not an option.
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