How advanced is AC Compressor Clutch replacement? - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks I tried spinning it by hand with the belt on and couldn't get it to budge in either direction. Does the belt have to be off? Planning on seeing what my mechanic thinks anyway since I'm getting a rattle that probably needs to be looks at too.
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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 11:09 AM
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Does the belt have to be off?

yes. Have it looked at by a professional.
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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 06:10 PM
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Belt rolls on outer clutch pulley, what is freewheeling unless the clutch in engaged.
Front plate is bolted to compressor shaft and that is what you suppose to turn for testing.

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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I am learning a lot and the comments have been really useful. It was the front plate I was trying to turn but without the belt off I guess that is moot. Obviously this is above my pay grade. Before I pay 8-1400 bucks (according to quotes so far) to have the compressor replaced, I know you said the pressure is fine, but is it worth buying one of those r134 cans and trying to get the refrigerant higher? According to other posts (*if I'm understanding them right) the compressor will automatically quit if the system senses a big loss of refrigerant as a failsafe I guess, and it won't work again till the refrigerant is back to normal. The smoke incident happened when the car was at single digit F temperatures and I think I turned the defrost on so I'm guessing there was a lot of expansion/contraction stress on things. Is that plausible or am I just delaying the inevitable? What is normal pressure for the system anyway I couldn't seem to find it anywhere?
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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 04:42 AM
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Once again. You will not be able to top refrigerant up (if it needs it) if the compressor is not running. and the compressor will not run till the controller tells it to run. The controller will not be able to tell it be because the it detected that the clutch control is bad (electrically).

Till you fix the problem (either the new clutch, if the compressor is fine, or the new compressor), no amount of refrigerant in the system will help you. I doubt that the compressor is fine. Try turning the nut in the middle of the pulley with a wrench.
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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice , currently getting a new compressor, and a cat converter that was on the way out, both things that are too advanced for me right now.
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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 10:36 PM
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Really? Changing 210/112 cats ranks with changing brake pads.

Sixto
98 E320 wagon
02 C320 wagon
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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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Probably true... if you have a place to work, tools, experience, and time. I feel fortunate that my mechanic was able to do both the compressor and driver cat for for the same price as a number of others quoted just one or the other. AC blowing nice and cold just in time for 90 degree weather, and noticed a little more power and a lot less sound with the new cat.

Still doesn't sound quite right though, do cats tend to go bad at same time? Also noticed some stickers or residue from them on the cat pipe, I assume that will burn off? Again thanks for all the advice, especially mrboca and kajtek1, noticed the refrigerant was back up around 10 with the compressor now back.

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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 11:03 AM
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What made you think that the CAT(s) are bad ? Did you have any codes from the post CAT O2 sensors ? Lack of performance ? Noise ?

Sometimes chunks of CAT guts ends up in the secondary CAT/resonator, and causes partial clogging.

It is unusual, but not impossible, that both CATs fail at the same time. It is also unusual for CATs to fail, if everything else (fuel / air intake, ignition, sensors, etc.) work fine, anyway (apart from physical issues like rust holes, leaks, etc.)
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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Was getting an intermittent marble in a can noise from somewhere in the front, usually kind of quiet but ocassionally pretty loud. My mechanic diagnosed as the drivers side, said he has seen a lot of them and they are a weak point of the w210, and the noise was exhaust leak/pressure and particles bouncing. No codes or anything that I know of, I did notice a little more power after getting it fixed though. I'm overdue for spark plugs so I wonder if that contributed to it, mechanic felt like it was running fine and suggested I wait till the next oil change (so I could stomach the bill and think about plugs then, but I kind of wonder how the pass side cat is doing now.
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