How advanced is AC Compressor Clutch replacement? - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Okay thanks I tried resetting a couple times and it didn't go away, and the #7 was up to 08 sitting in the sun so that doesn't seem super low. Do you think this kit would be any good? https://pitstopauto.com/Catalog/Part...BoC8WAQAvD_BwE
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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 02:55 PM
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No idea. seems awfully cheap. Cheaper than a Denso compressor alone
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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 03:08 PM
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Seems there is more going behind this topic that adds to the story?
So did your fuse burn becouse compressor was seizing?
IMHO well adjusted clutch will hold higher moment than belt can deliver, so seizing compressor would burn the belt before burning the clutch fuse.
AC clutch is wearable and needs checking the gap every few hundreds of working hours.
That is one of the most common negligence MB owners do.
Meaning I still would buy cheap clutch on ebay and give it a try since the system seem to hold the refrigerant.
But then you are the one who knows whole story.
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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 04:06 PM
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And just because you got 419, it does not mean the coil fuse is open. It could be a bad connection at the top of the compressor (where the wiring from the controller terminates), it could be bad wiring (not sure if it is a direct connection or through the some terminal), or it could be the coil wiring itself. To be sure, you need to check the resistance between chassis and the connector on top of the compressor. It not open, the problem is somewhere else.


If the belt breaks instead of fuse opening, I would say it is a bad design (or not working as designed). In the older models, the compressor had an rpm output which was monitored by the controller. The controller also had the engine rpm to compare, and if not plausible the belt deemed to be slipping and then the controller would release the clutch to present belt breaking.

I have the car for almost 8 years and never had to adjust the clutch, as the clutch does not wear out anywhere near to those older start-stop compressor designs (or when you overcharge the refrigerant, the compressor cuts in and out to protect the system).
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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Well there probably is more to the story but I don't know what it is! All I know is the fan is blowing great, but not cold, the 419 code, and some smoke and some burnt oil or rubber spray near where the compressor is over the winter. Also I know the refrigerant pressure is reading from 3 at night to 8 in the sun. Also don't know if it is related or not but I've been getting kind of a weird rattle noise (https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w21...ine-noise.html). I think this probably is too advanced for me, since I don't really understand the compressor, coil, and clutch or have the refrigerant tools. So if it gets fixed I should probably take it to a local magician. I guess my only remaining questions are a) is it worth spending $30 to fill up the refrigerant and see if that makes the clutch kick in or is the 419 definitely saying it can't b) should I just try and replace the clutch first, I priced the a/c compressor cycling switch (same as clutch?) on yourmechanic and it is less than 300 w/ labor c) is doing compressor/dryer/seals the smartest thing to do. Thanks for the input Kajtek1 & mrboca, much appreciated.

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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 06:12 PM
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You have enough refrigerant in the system to start the compressor. There is no point in adding more if the compressor cannot turn.

The compressor cycling switch I suspect is the relay that energizes the clutch for start-stop compressor system (older system which the cooling is maintained by turning the compressor on and off). I do not think it is for the clutch itself. You can change the clutch and coil inside, but first get an opinion from someone who knows what he is doing, to visually and physically inspect the compressor.

If you are not familiar with the a/c system, take it to your "magician" and have a diagnosis and estimate for labor and ask if you can supply the parts.
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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Will do, much thanks.
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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 09:47 AM
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Easy way for initial compressor test is grab front plate on the clutch and try to turn it by hand. This way you can feel if compressor is turning, or is seized.
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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 05:30 PM
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If you can do the work yourself, you can check the compressor and the clutch. You can remove the belt at first, and with the clutch not engaged see if the pulley spins freely. Then you can apply voltage at the clutch and see if the clutch engages and then with the clutch engaged see if the compressor turns smoothly. Then you'll know if it's a clutch or compressor issue. Also, you can disconnect the terminal at the clutch and see if voltage is going to it when you turn on the air-conditioning. Remember that the system will apply voltage to the clutch in cycles. Off and on occasionally. If that happens, then you know the system has enough pressure and a refrigerant pressure switch is closed. When there's low pressure, the system will not engage the clutch. A word of caution. You want the right amount of refrigerant too much is terrible for the compressor. You also want to make sure you have the right amount and proper lubricant. To have the system working properly, you have to be precise. Keep in mind I'm no expert in the field just trying to help. And I haven't even gone into contamination of the system, pressure testing with nitrogen after leaks, testing for leaks and applying vacuum before recharging. Some or all may not apply in your case.

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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 06:53 AM
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This is would I would do, and given that it’s a 22 year old car, I would even go ahead before any further diagnosis.

Replace compressor, receiver dryer and expansion valve. DIY cost $300-400, depending on existing tools and what you need to farm out.

A local shop should be able to capture your R134 for about $40. Key on compressor swap is having the right amount of oil in the new one, but there are plenty of videos showing how to do that.

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w21...ent-write.html

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w21...alve-w210.html
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