'99 E320 - Need help with transmission problem and preventative maintenance - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War_Destroyer View Post
I get sent to the conductor plate whenever I type "valve body spring"...

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...e-1402700861oe

Is it part of the conductor plate assembly?

I did get a result to an actual spring on eBay though...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/68942-01-72...frcectupt=trueMan, now I have to wait for a dipstick to arrive because of this "sealed for life" nonsense Mercedes-Benz came up with... I'll come back with pictures whenever it arrives... Oh yeah, I definitely will. I don't skimp on gas or any of the cars fluids lol

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In a word - yes.

Read about it in the W210 forum stickies.
Transmission section and Ď722.6 Pressure regulator spring replacementí.
If you are buying the valve body it will likely have the revised spring.
If you are getting the electric board portion of the trans then you will be reusing your existing valve body. Worth checking the spring while you have the pan off and cheap part.


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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrboca View Post
Check the ATF quality (color, smell) and level first.
Okay guys, I finally got the dipstick. I followed the instructions, inserted and checked a couple of times, going as far as it could go with moderate force, and it's no where near the 80 degree level it should be for the warm check. From the little that was on the dipstick I couldn't really tell much from it. The grime was from the dipstick going down the tube, oil was the color of oil, no weird smells, but I don't know much about that...

The problem happened only twice, at the beginning and end of March, other than that it's always worked fine on the streets and highway and continues to do so.

So does this mean that it's just low on ATF, is that even normal? Could that be the cause of P0700 and the problem? What next lol

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 04:10 PM
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If you followed the instructions regarding the getting the ATF to 80 deg C and going through the gears first with the engine running, then you should try adding ATF in small amounts as the instructions indicate till you get to the correct level. The question is where did the ATF go ?

You get P0700 with low ATF (among many other reasons, such as ATF filter issues.).

Also measure the ATF level with engine not running, after waiting fro the ATF to settle in the pan.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 05:19 PM
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As per Mr Boca,
But if you want to do a service at least ,you could also drain and drop the pan , fit a new filter and gasket and check and replace the pilot bushing which could be leaking ,which is why the fluid is low.
Plus you would get some new fluid in the system, which would be a good thing , and then you can set the fluid level to the correct amount.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 06:40 PM
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In my humble opinion, first of all neither of your cars are high mileage, this is 1
Second, before you get into as deep as Valve Body, Pressure Regulator Spring or Conductor Plate and since you donít know the history of neither cars and you just got a transmission dipstick, why donít you spend less than a $100 and get a filter&gasket kit, Conductor plate plug or aka Pilot Bushing or whatever da heck itís called and 12qts of Valvoline MaxLife. Do a Yumling method fluid exchange first, drive about 100 miles then drop the pan, change 3-4 qts of the fluid then filter and the bushing. Meanwhile donít forget to invest another $5-6 for a MAF or Electronics Cleaner, pull the TCM and watch for the traces of oil, if any clean the heck out of it. All this will cost you just about $100 per car then you watch from there.
Also make no mistake about 80C temperature, it is not the engine or coolant temperature as indicated on the cluster, it is actually the transmission temperature or transmission fluid temperature, so make sure you take a good drive before you check it for 80C. But usually if the initial fill is correct at 25C then 80C measurement comes right at the spot.
Check out in the stickies Yumling flush, I also added some pics there recently when we changed my mateís fluid.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Cheers
Al
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 09:45 PM
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Rule of thumb is 80*C is uncomfortable to touch. Pull the dipstick and immediately pinch the wet end. If it’s not too hot to pinch, keep driving. I haven’t caused myself injury if thats a concern.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrboca View Post
If you followed the instructions regarding the getting the ATF to 80 deg C and going through the gears first with the engine running, then you should try adding ATF in small amounts as the instructions indicate till you get to the correct level. The question is where did the ATF go ?

You get P0700 with low ATF (among many other reasons, such as ATF filter issues.).

Also measure the ATF level with engine not running, after waiting fro the ATF to settle in the pan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzyle View Post
As per Mr Boca,
But if you want to do a service at least ,you could also drain and drop the pan , fit a new filter and gasket and check and replace the pilot bushing which could be leaking ,which is why the fluid is low.
Plus you would get some new fluid in the system, which would be a good thing , and then you can set the fluid level to the correct amount.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 01blackhawk View Post
In my humble opinion, first of all neither of your cars are high mileage, this is 1
Second, before you get into as deep as Valve Body, Pressure Regulator Spring or Conductor Plate and since you donít know the history of neither cars and you just got a transmission dipstick, why donít you spend less than a $100 and get a filter&gasket kit, Conductor plate plug or aka Pilot Bushing or whatever da heck itís called and 12qts of Valvoline MaxLife. Do a Yumling method fluid exchange first, drive about 100 miles then drop the pan, change 3-4 qts of the fluid then filter and the bushing. Meanwhile donít forget to invest another $5-6 for a MAF or Electronics Cleaner, pull the TCM and watch for the traces of oil, if any clean the heck out of it. All this will cost you just about $100 per car then you watch from there.
Also make no mistake about 80C temperature, it is not the engine or coolant temperature as indicated on the cluster, it is actually the transmission temperature or transmission fluid temperature, so make sure you take a good drive before you check it for 80C. But usually if the initial fill is correct at 25C then 80C measurement comes right at the spot.
Check out in the stickies Yumling flush, I also added some pics there recently when we changed my mateís fluid.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Cheers
Al
Tomorrow we have a high/low of 64/52F. Not sure if that plays a part, but I'll try to drive for 25 minutes tomorrow and check again. I didn't think it would actually take that long for the ATF to reach 80C or 176F.

Or can I just do the cold check method first thing in the morning?

In any case it looks like the concensus is that I do the fluid change. Below is a list of the parts and the fluid I plan on buying. Please let me know if I have it right, if I'm missing something, or have any other parts or suggestions.

There is only one Valvoline MaxLife ATF if I understand correctly and it's compatible with my E320.

I would just double up on everything if I want to do the same with my E420? It's 10 quarts per car righf? I guess I have to buy 5-6 gallons of ATF... lol

Edit: I can do this fluid change with just car ramps right? I have a car jack and stands, but I feel more comfortable with the ramps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tabijan View Post
Rule of thumb is 80*C is uncomfortable to touch. Pull the dipstick and immediately pinch the wet end. If itís not too hot to pinch, keep driving. I havenít caused myself injury if thats a concern.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon
Hahaha, I'll do that.

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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 10:13 PM
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The list is correct but... you donít need a drain plug imo, plug is reusable as long as you change copper washer, if it makes you feel better go for it.
Second and more important, stay the F.... away from any critical Uro parts, itís totally garbage, especially the transmission plug. Yes I got my antenna cover Uro Make sense?
Pay 5 bucks extra and get Febi, Meyle, whatever is out there but URO.
For the piece of mind I even bought mine from the closest stealership and it was only 3 bucks more than the best online deal.
Yes MaxLife is 17 something at Walmart and readily available.
My mate used it probably 4-5 times in his 2005 E320 4Matic, first we changed it was 5 years ago and he had 136K on the clock back then, now he has more than 304 or 305K, still shifts like a butter.
In my 2001 I used it at 100K, 130K and 150K changes, now I have 186K, getting ready to do a Yumling flush when the weather picks up a little.
Ohh no, when you do the Yumling flush car has to be level, no need for ramps, all you need is a second person to turn the car on and off. Doing it by yourself is a royal bitch
Good luck
Al
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 08:20 AM
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Does War_Destroyer need to use the Yumling method? ‘97 and ‘99 should have a torque converter drain. Mind how you fill the empty TC. Don’t pour 8 quarts in at once.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 08:40 AM
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If the ATF level is low, find the leak first. Nothing worse than you do all those maintenance stuff and the ATF still leaks and cause the same problems over time. Get the car scanned and find out the 3 digit code from the TCM to find out what other codes (but not mapped to P07XX codes at the ECM).
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