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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 10:12 PM
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Check the fan blades. If the blade is broken or otherwise chipped, the missing area space can cause whistling which changes tone as the engine revs up.

W/S refers to gear start. W, car starts in 2nd gear. S, car starts in 1st gear. That lever that you show is a metal lever, and the sensor detects the obstruction and adjusts shift point accordly. Count the number of gear shifts as you drive, if you count 3 gear shifts when you get up to 45/50 mph, thats in W. If you count 4, that's in S.

Any codes?

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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-13-2018, 03:47 AM
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I do not hear anything out of the ordinary, maybe slight chatter. You said the idler pulley was replaced, Has the tensioner been replaced too ? I do not see it in the picture but I assume that it is the old style (metal pulley) if never been replaced. It is advisable to upgrade to the new style due to known issues. You can ask your mechanic to remove the belt temporarily, and listen if the noise changes considerably.

If the fan clutch was replaced, it is normal that you hear the whooshing sound for a while, as you accelerate, and when the engine is cool. I assume the mechanic used a quality fan clutch, and the quality of the cheap ones vary. Was this roaring problem there prior to replacement of the fan clutch ?

Do not create new problems. Clean the shifter electronics ONLY after you confirm that there is a shifter issue (fault codes, limp mode, etc.), and do this with an electronics connector cleaner or MAF cleaner. Do not use anything else.
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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 08:28 PM
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Are you 100% sure the motor mounts are good. If they are original at 80K for a V8 is bit questionable IMHO. In the second video between 0:4 an 0:9 I could see everything is moving unless the camera is shaking.Other than that it runs like a clock.
Also do yourself a favor and clean those headlights sir, they donít look good with that spotless engine bay
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Check the fan blades. If the blade is broken or otherwise chipped, the missing area space can cause whistling which changes tone as the engine revs up.

W/S refers to gear start. W, car starts in 2nd gear. S, car starts in 1st gear. That lever that you show is a metal lever, and the sensor detects the obstruction and adjusts shift point accordly. Count the number of gear shifts as you drive, if you count 3 gear shifts when you get up to 45/50 mph, thats in W. If you count 4, that's in S.

Any codes?
Thanks Deplore, no codes. I will count the gears tomorrow, and get back to you. I tol the car for a second look, and had the mechanic stay in front of the engine when I hit the gas pedal, it almost blew him away. He will change the fan clutch again, he believes the new one(Behr) is faulty, will keep you guys posted.

No codes on the car at all, I wish someone had a diagram of the shifer fuction, as everytime I press W/S pixels don’t change in the screen, when I go in manual they do.
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Are you 100% sure the motor mounts are good. If they are original at 80K for a V8 is bit questionable IMHO. In the second video between 0:4 an 0:9 I could see everything is moving unless the camera is shaking.Other than that it runs like a clock.
Also do yourself a favor and clean those headlights sir, they don’t look good with that spotless engine bay <img src="https://www.benzworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
According to him yes, I did the engine mounts test as well, engine does not move much, will be my last resort. No codes on the engine, could O2 sensors or coil packs or they both throw codes? The vibration you saw is correct!
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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I do not hear anything out of the ordinary, maybe slight chatter. You said the idler pulley was replaced, Has the tensioner been replaced too ? I do not see it in the picture but I assume that it is the old style (metal pulley) if never been replaced. It is advisable to upgrade to the new style due to known issues. You can ask your mechanic to remove the belt temporarily, and listen if the noise changes considerably.

If the fan clutch was replaced, it is normal that you hear the whooshing sound for a while, as you accelerate, and when the engine is cool. I assume the mechanic used a quality fan clutch, and the quality of the cheap ones vary. Was this roaring problem there prior to replacement of the fan clutch ?

Do not create new problems. Clean the shifter electronics ONLY after you confirm that there is a shifter issue (fault codes, limp mode, etc.), and do this with an electronics connector cleaner or MAF cleaner. Do not use anything else.
I will have inspect the tensioner and he will replace the fan clutch, he believes that is where the noise is coming. Will keep you posted. He did change serpentine belt, harmonic balancer and, idler pulley.

Is Behr a good brand for fan clutch?

Thanks!!
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-16-2018, 03:45 AM
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Behr should be fine. Sachs (I believe, the OE) is better but a bit more expensive. Depending on how it was stored (position and distribution of the gel material inside), it may initially not work as it should. You need to give some time. Also, make sure that the mechanic properly inspects the fan blade for chipping, cracks, and give it a good clean up prior to installation. If the fan blade is defective, it will make noise, and should be replaced at a reasonable cost.

Also, make sure that the engine coolant temps are within limits.
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-16-2018, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Behr should be fine. Sachs (I believe, the OE) is better but a bit more expensive. Depending on how it was stored (position and distribution of the gel material inside), it may initially not work as it should. You need to give some time. Also, make sure that the mechanic properly inspects the fan blade for chipping, cracks, and give it a good clean up prior to installation. If the fan blade is defective, it will make noise, and should be replaced at a reasonable cost.

Also, make sure that the engine coolant temps are within limits.
Thanks. Quick update, we replaced the Behr one with a similar one, same loud noise. I ordered a Sachs from Autohaus, just for piece of mind. Will keep you guys posted how it works out. Tensioner had no play at all, seemed fine, forgot to take a picture to confirm if it is the old one. Car is 2002, so I belive I am not affected by the faulty tensioner.

In regards to the gears, I believe I am on W mode, counted 3 up to 45/50 mhp.
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-16-2018, 10:51 PM
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No codes on the car at all, I wish someone had a diagram of the shifer fuction, as everytime I press W/S pixels donít change in the screen, when I go in manual they do.
That's because the gear selector does not show the current gear, unless the car is in manual mode...which as you noticed. The lever is pretty much the only way to tell.

So could be a damaged shifter.

--1998 MB E300TD 291k
--1997 MB E36 Frankenstein'd AMG 199k
--2011 Suzuki DL650 58k
--1997 MB E320 161k. SOLD...loved that stupid car.
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-17-2018, 07:09 AM
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My 2002 did have the old tensioner. You should verify or post a picture if unsure.

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