Where can one get a key fob other than the dealer? - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mrboca View Post
It appears that your car already has a replacement gen 2 key, possibly with a replacement EIS in its past (the original EIS or the ignition switch module was troublesome when it first came out and it was replaced when it failed, and when it did, the gen 2 keys were supplied).

In any case you have options apart from the dealer.

1) if no continuity at the terminals of the coil (the terminals are only at one side on the left of the coil in your picture (up/down), you can get a replacement coil from Ebay and remove the old one and replace it with the new coil.

2) You can get the chip transferred to a new fob. See the other recent post on this forum. You can contact the forum member and buy him some beer + part + shipping costs which beats the dealer prices.

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/17469065-post4.html

You really need a spare key.

You need a gizmo that will help diagnose whether it is the key problem or the EIS.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Lock-C...QAAOSwWxNYsYki
I really appreciate the help, thank you! I am hoping that it's the key fob and not the EIS module. I just replaced the head gasket and I just want to enjoy the car till it reaches a million miles(currently 153,000).
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post #12 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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I do not know if that means anything but when I put the key in the ignition and press the lock button, the doors will not lock. If I take it out and press the lock button, the doors do lock. Unless there's a mechanism in the key fob itself which recognizes that the key is in the ignition, then the EIS module knows that there's a key in it. Is this assumption wrong? Which one is in charge of recognizing inserted key fob? EIS module or key fob?
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post #13 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 01:23 PM
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The EIS. The EIS will know when the key is inserted as you push the key in, I believe there is a switch there. The EIS will initiate turning off the lock / unlock function inhibition for a good reason. Each time you press a key on the fob, it will generate an IR transmittal as well as RF transmittal. The EIS does not want the key to "speak", unless spoken to, through the IR interface

Also the EIS puts the inductive power on the transponder coil so the key can be energized. That is what the inductor in the key fob is for. Kind of like wireless charging of the phones.
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post #14 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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The EIS. The EIS will know when the key is inserted as you push the key in, I believe there is a switch there. The EIS will initiate turning off the lock / unlock function inhibition for a good reason. Each time you press a key on the fob, it will generate an IR transmittal as well as RF transmittal. The EIS does not want the key to "speak", unless spoken to, through the IR interface

Also the EIS puts the inductive power on the transponder coil so the key can be energized. That is what the inductor in the key fob is for. Kind of like wireless charging of the phones.
Thank you very much!
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post #15 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-29-2018, 07:52 PM
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Try checking fuse it could be something that simple I had same issue on clk500 2004 wouldnt read the key when placed in eis I was so close to replacing eis but then a friend told me check fuses and I did and dont ask me how cuz I got NO clue but I was missing ignition fuse at engine bay soon as I put one in BAM it read the key and turned right over that would have been money down the drain replacing eis then to make matters worse you cannot buy eis or engine module unless you have lock smith certificate because those are theft relevant parts which if you ask me is some bull

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post #16 of 43 (permalink) Old 07-01-2018, 10:13 PM
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I'm the guy who fixes (simple) key issues.

As the post linked to states, I believe VERY STRONGLY that everyone should have 2 @ Smartkeys. It's not just "oh if one breaks/gets lost you still have another" it is also illustrated right here with your wonderings.

Is it key? Is it EIS? Is it fuse? First easy step to find out is to plop the 2nd key in the ignition. Without this 2nd key you are reduced to guesswork. The wire on the inductor is so small you really need a lighted magnifier to check it for breaks. A few drops on hard floors can knock the coil loose. I have also seen them damaged when someone hamfistedly JAMS them into the casing.

I'm in LA and will be out of town for 4th of July until the 10th so i can't help you soon. If you could see a simple solder break it's likely JimmyJohn at the iPhone kiosk could fix it. Junkyards have these keys, you could get one there and remove coil as a donor.

My suggestion is celebrate your FREEDOM on the 4th, freedom from worrying about only having one key. Go to the dealer. Grab your ankles and pay $400 for $20 of parts and have them make you a key. They'll have it Fedexed from Texas in a couple days. Hopefully they won't make you tow it in.

If that key works, PM me and I'll fix the first one.
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post #17 of 43 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Try checking fuse it could be something that simple I had same issue on clk500 2004 wouldnt read the key when placed in eis I was so close to replacing eis but then a friend told me check fuses and I did and dont ask me how cuz I got NO clue but I was missing ignition fuse at engine bay soon as I put one in BAM it read the key and turned right over that would have been money down the drain replacing eis then to make matters worse you cannot buy eis or engine module unless you have lock smith certificate because those are theft relevant parts which if you ask me is some bull

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I wish the problem was that simple but I went through all the fuses that could have caused that, all of them were fine. When the EIS module is disconnected from the car, it cannot be locked nor unlocked. This is proof that it is getting power since when connected the car can be locked and unlocked using the key fob.
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post #18 of 43 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 93SoCal400E View Post
I'm the guy who fixes (simple) key issues.

As the post linked to states, I believe VERY STRONGLY that everyone should have 2 @ Smartkeys. It's not just "oh if one breaks/gets lost you still have another" it is also illustrated right here with your wonderings.

Is it key? Is it EIS? Is it fuse? First easy step to find out is to plop the 2nd key in the ignition. Without this 2nd key you are reduced to guesswork. The wire on the inductor is so small you really need a lighted magnifier to check it for breaks. A few drops on hard floors can knock the coil loose. I have also seen them damaged when someone hamfistedly JAMS them into the casing.

I'm in LA and will be out of town for 4th of July until the 10th so i can't help you soon. If you could see a simple solder break it's likely JimmyJohn at the iPhone kiosk could fix it. Junkyards have these keys, you could get one there and remove coil as a donor.

My suggestion is celebrate your FREEDOM on the 4th, freedom from worrying about only having one key. Go to the dealer. Grab your ankles and pay $400 for $20 of parts and have them make you a key. They'll have it Fedexed from Texas in a couple days. Hopefully they won't make you tow it in.

If that key works, PM me and I'll fix the first one.
Going to the dealer was the first thing that I did but they wanted the car towed there to have it diagnosed and the key would be around 350 provided the issue was the key. I ended up taking the EIS module out(not bad, 15-20 minutes since I did not find a guide on how to take it out) and send it somewhere to have two key fobs made from it. Since they'll have both the EIS module and the key fob, it will be easier to get to the bottom of this should the issue be the EIS module and not the key fob itself.
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post #19 of 43 (permalink) Old 07-03-2018, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alien945 View Post
I wish the problem was that simple but I went through all the fuses that could have caused that, all of them were fine. When the EIS module is disconnected from the car, it cannot be locked nor unlocked. This is proof that it is getting power since when connected the car can be locked and unlocked using the key fob.
If you checked all the fuses, then it is not a fuse problem. But there is one fuse between the EIS and the ESL (the electronic steering lock) and it is Fuse #9. The ESL gets its power from the EIS via fuse #9, and if this fuse blows fro some reason, the EIS will allow locking and unlocking of the car, but it will not let you turn the ignition switch, as the unpowered ESL will not respond to EIS's authentication requests.
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post #20 of 43 (permalink) Old 07-03-2018, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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If you checked all the fuses, then it is not a fuse problem. But there is one fuse between the EIS and the ESL (the electronic steering lock) and it is Fuse #9. The ESL gets its power from the EIS via fuse #9, and if this fuse blows fro some reason, the EIS will allow locking and unlocking of the car, but it will not let you turn the ignition switch, as the unpowered ESL will not respond to EIS's authentication requests.
I just went through that entire area to check because I did not know that there was a fuse there, I could not find one. I'll go ahead and check again when I get a chance tomorrow.
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