Looks Like the 2003 E320 Wagon I bought on Ebay is a LEMON - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-11-2016, 09:56 PM
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I'm not certain about the 4Matic, but if it is a W210, your issues could be bad accumulators. They are very easy to replace. Check the stickies or look here: Accumulators

Post #37 in that thread is a detailed write up I did on the hydraulic fluid replacement.

Good luck!
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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-13-2016, 01:08 PM
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The rust in the photos doesn't look bad to me. Looks like rust started on the components that were not painted or on the painted parts where the paint is thinnest (edges). Unless there are some structural components badly rusted, which I can see, I wouldn't worry. The only issue you may have is if something fails, you deal with trying to remove rusty bolts, etc. But that is a challenge of any car this old. But on its own, I dont think you will see any catastrophic failure issues from the rust.

With the crap they put down on the roads now, which they just did out in NJ last night for the first time, expect more degradation. Just use the car and get your moneys worth, without trying to make it a show car.

As for the sheet metal rust, all your personal choice of what you can live with vs what you can afford to fix. You can go the quick grind and fill route, which will make it look good for a couple of years. I wouldn't dump too much money into it.
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-14-2016, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 01blackhawk View Post
I'm not an expert about rust, it looks bad, really bad but I don't think it's horrible, my opinion you can easily get a year or maybe little more with this, always remember that you are on borrowed time and sell it as quick as possible if you get a decent offer.
Let's wait and see what Kajtek will see in those pics, I'd trust his judgment on this rust issue.
Al
A year? That rust is a dream for me....that car could last more than 10 years with that level of rust if nothing is done...spray it with a little old engine oil and it'll go on for ever. The rust I have on the same components would be worse...but is not a concern.

If the rust is in the chassis and body panels then that's a different story.
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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-14-2016, 01:41 AM
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exterior rust just starting to show on rear fenders
The rust on the rear quarters...this is bad rust. Take off the rear bumper and be prepared for a huge amount of rust, and very little metal, on each side.
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-14-2016, 05:29 PM
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The rust is not so bad, however, the mechanic is bad. You will never be able to believe what he tells you. The rust can be slowed down dramatically by spraying Fluid Film on it. Fluid Film comes in an aerosol can and is often used to keep rust arrested on wire rope because it goes on thick but crawls into every crack and crevice. Crawl under with a can and spray all the rust you can see. It even has a straw that allows you to aim at stuff you can see but can't reach. Hit the seam on the gas tank. I believe it is the best rust stopping product I have ever used. I have no connection to the product, but my Mercedes is wearing some.
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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-14-2016, 05:53 PM
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Even cars don't rust in CA, bringing them from East Coast I have to deal with rust occasionally and have excellent results with Rust Converter.
It is chemical that convert iron oxidation into other chemical component, that not only kills "cancer" but makes protective/priming coat.
It is recommended to paint it on top, (or spray oil, what usually wash away) but for me RC alone is all I need for years.
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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-15-2016, 02:30 AM
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The rust is not so bad, however, the mechanic is bad. You will never be able to believe what he tells you. The rust can be slowed down dramatically by spraying Fluid Film on it. Fluid Film comes in an aerosol can and is often used to keep rust arrested on wire rope because it goes on thick but crawls into every crack and crevice. Crawl under with a can and spray all the rust you can see. It even has a straw that allows you to aim at stuff you can see but can't reach. Hit the seam on the gas tank. I believe it is the best rust stopping product I have ever used. I have no connection to the product, but my Mercedes is wearing some.
If you see rust above the side of the rear bumper then there will be no metal behind the bumper...that rust is awful.
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 07:02 PM
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I said the same thing to the OP a month or two ago, when he first posted. I love fluid film too. Not sure why he keeps repeating the question.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nelbur View Post
The rust is not so bad, however, the mechanic is bad. You will never be able to believe what he tells you. The rust can be slowed down dramatically by spraying Fluid Film on it. Fluid Film comes in an aerosol can and is often used to keep rust arrested on wire rope because it goes on thick but crawls into every crack and crevice. Crawl under with a can and spray all the rust you can see. It even has a straw that allows you to aim at stuff you can see but can't reach. Hit the seam on the gas tank. I believe it is the best rust stopping product I have ever used. I have no connection to the product, but my Mercedes is wearing some.
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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2016, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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So- I took the wagon in to be looked at on Friday regarding the sagging rear. The shop is telling me there is plenty of pressure coming out of the pump, with no leaks. He believe its the "Level Valve" and is replacing the box. The box is about $500.00 for the part and 2 hours labor.
Does this sound fair?
He also added that the lines are rusted, and said you never know what will happen when he changes the box (a line braking etc) but he said he has a supply of those high pressure lines if something breaks.

Also, theres an oil leak in the front which I assumed was a valve cover, he said its the oil level sensor (I think thats what he called it) behind the oil pan. $120 for the part plus labor
And Motor mounts, $240 for the pair plus 2.5 hours labor.

another $1500 bill
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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2016, 01:48 PM
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Your indy is not cheap, but that happens when you don't DIY.
I would double check leveling valve as $500 looks high and it might need simple adjustment.


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