Dipsticks and fluid change. - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-18-2016, 01:51 PM
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I've seen that current list, but the Valvoline listed looks like something other than their Maxlife. The only reason I bring it up is that it's readily available at nearly every auto supply store, and it's relatively inexpensive. I'm just glad I'm not the only one that sees this subject as unclear.


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1998 MB E300
2001 F250 7.3 Powerstroke Lariat 4x4 Crewcab
Both running B70-B100
2006 MB R350
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-18-2016, 06:33 PM
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To add to the confusion, when those cars have been manufactured the list did not exist at all
I know Valvoline makes good ATF, but for some reasons did not get MB approval.
It doesn't have to be technical reason, but likely could be legal or bribing reason.
So it is expected that at some point Valvoline will get on the list.
But I still come to my point, that using Valvoline instead of MB fluid maybe is not bad, but I am glad it is not me who for $40 difference becomes guinea pig with $3000 transmission.
Come back after 10 or 20,000 miles and post update Please.


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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-18-2016, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kajtek1 View Post
Come back after 10 or 20,000 miles and post update Please.
Ok how about if I come back after 64,000 miles and stir the pot little bit

Remember this thread, I changed my buddy's fluid&filter at 136K and meanwhile we also did another change somewhere around 165-166K
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...ink-about.html

He just passed 200K with that 2005 4Matic just a couple of weeks ago and was asking if I have time for some beer and another fluid&filter change.

Again, I'm not here to promote, approve or disapprove any particular brand of ATF one way or another, just happened to see your message and decided to drop by

Anybody wants to use a particular brand of ATF or any other fluid/parts in their car, it is clearly their own choice, I absolutely have no say about that.

Last edited by 01blackhawk; 01-18-2016 at 07:37 PM.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-18-2016, 08:33 PM
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Than at 160,000 miles I just did allegedly first sparks change on wife wagon.
Not intentional, but seems that is nothing wrong with the interval.
Now wait for Noodles to come with his propaganda. ...


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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 07:14 AM
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With all due respect to others who don't agree with my approach, I don't care to get into a pissing contest about who knows best. Of course the safe bet is to buy genuine parts with any vehicle. However, there are plenty of non OE parts out there that fit/work just as well. This is where experience and know how come into play. I trust my own judgement and can say I am very pleased with the results from the parts and fluids I have chosen to use on my prized Mercedes.
If it makes a person feel better to pay for MB OE parts and fluids, then so be it and I'm glad you have your peace of mind. I have mine too. My point: There is always another angle! Call my car the guinea pig, but it's still alive and well!
Peace!
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 09:03 AM
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You have your point that you don't have to pay high prices for OEM parts, but aftermarket has too much crap to have good recommendation.
Years ago I bought rebuild alternator for my Ford from NAPA and it was huge struggle as it had intermediate charging problem from day 2, but passed bench test to finally die 8 months later. Dormans parts are usually miss, but Doraman is just distributor and parts come from different manufacturers.
You do have knowledge to choose good bet for your car, but most of members come here to have good recommendations and gambling doesn't fall under.
Just becouse the car runs, doesn't mean it runs with optimal performance.
I have been observing MB forum for year about coolant.
Lot of MB owners saved $3 or maybe $5 not buying MB coolant, but MB-approved Zerex coolant.
Guess what? Each time new owner comes with overheating problem on his Mercedes - he has Zerex in his car.
Coincidence? Could be to some point, but statistics are devastating.
I did use aftermarket parts occasionally, but I only take my gamble on non-crucial parts that are easy to replace.
$15 voltage regulator start giving me errors on idle 3 months after installation.
Drove with it for another 6 months as it worked at higher rpm, but then had to do the labor 2nd time with OEM regulator.
I hope you will not have to do the same.


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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 07:58 PM
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Let me list out a slect few "sh*t" knockoff parts - especially since they are "electrical" - means for almost all auto-parts-retail-stores and internet stores - they are not returnable.,

What kindof burns my a*s - is the recent surge of quasi-brand names like - "Genuine" or "Genuine Original" "OE Supplier" and these guys use their invented brand name to portray legitimacy - and some add phony Mercedes/Bosch paper boxes - all this nonsense since the cheap China part can be sold for close-to/or-same-as the price of the Mercedes part.. and/or even "reputable" retail stores like AutoZone/Napa or enven autohausaz.com - now selling cheaper than authentic parts

W210 brake light switch - authentic around MB/correct MB box $25 - knockoff's $8-$24 - all knockoffs sh*t
W210 CPS - authentic Bosch $35 - knockoff's $12 to $28 - all knockoffs sh*t
W210 tranny/adapter harness plug - MB/MOPAR $11-$12 from Amazon - knocoff's from $6-$22 all knockoffs sh*t
W210 MAF - authentic Bosch $135/$155 - knockoff sensor/no-body $30-$60, with body $45-$180 - all knockoffs sh*t
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 04:50 AM
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I agree to use caution with aftermarket electrical parts, especially with those "creative" names! Early in my career as a dealer auto tech, we were taught to rebuilt alternators and starters using factory test methods and genuine parts, line bearings, brushers, diodes, stators etc. When I moved on to the private repair sector, the market was flooded with "rebuilt" Alternators and Starters at attractive prices. Personally I hated using them since I knew they were patched together and given a shiny coat of paint. After countless failures with these units, I was able to convince the owner to let me do the rebuild instead. That cut down on all the comebacks and towing expenses at that shop.
Last fall I decided to proactively replace my W210 alternator since it had over 170K and I was doing the belt and tensioners. After many hours of research considering both rebuilding mine or buying a rebuilt unit, I found a few reputable vendors selling rebuilt units with 2 year warranties which was more cost effective than rebuilding my own.
Someone on this forum mentioned getting an alternator from Autozone with a lifetime warranty. I looked into it and was able to find the exact replacement rebuilt alternator from Autozone. Promotional coupon and free shipping allowed me to purchase it for $125 net. I considered the warranty and decided to go with Autozone because it it fails, I can go to my local store and have a replacement in hand withing 24 hours. If I bought one from Autohaus or RM European, I would have to pay to send it to them and wait for a replacement. That would encompass at least a week turnaround! I'm happy to report the Autozone alternator not only checked out fine when I tested it after the installation, but it's now 6 months old and I have no issues with it. My point being to make a favorable testimony to using select aftermarket or rebuilt parts. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the safe bet is to buy the OEM parts but not always the most intelligent choice when it comes to serviceability or economics. I rest my dead horse as I'm not going to beat it anymore.....
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