Need Advice on what I need to do first on my New 2003 E320 Wagon - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-21-2015, 06:29 PM
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Thanks for all the sound advice.
Well here is an update:
Yesterday I get the thing registered and I start the car and keep it running while I am putting on the plates and registration stickers.
So about 10 min into it sitting idling it stalls.
Im thinking no big deal.
I try to start it and it won't start, it just cranks and cranks but won't start.
Now I am in a panic. I did some fast online research and found a garage in Port Chester NY (not too far from me) who has excellent reviews called SEMACA AUTO REPAIR. I call the guy up. He tells me to give it an hour and try again, sure thing in an hour it does start. I immediately drive it to him where it sits now.
He will do the inspection and check the car and report back. Keeping my fingers crossed this doesn't needs thousands in repairs (especially in light of that rust)

CPS. Crankshaft sensor. $30 part, $40 indy, less than 20 minutes to change.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-21-2015, 09:29 PM
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if you want to keep the visible rust in check, easiest way is to put on rust converter, then prime, the paint. You can use little brushes to apply--so you don't worry about spray and overspray. If you buy spray cans, just spray some into a cup--or the cap of the can, then brush on. The finish won't be great, but it will look a hell of a lot better than rust--and keep in in check for now.
A body shop will charge more than you paid for the car--just to rid of what you see. The solution I am proposing will cost you 20 bucks and an hour. Oh yeah, scrape of the bubbling paint around the visible rust before applying rust converter.
If you don't have time--at least lap some grease or heavy oil (or better yet "Fluid Film") on those spots--that'll hold it off till you get to it. You just have cleaning to do before the process above.

I agree there is bound to be lots of hidden rust. But visibly, if you do nothing, you probably have 2 years before the car would be described as a rust bucket and be almost worthless.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Well that's depressing! (2 years to rust bucket status) ..... There are body shops in the Bronx, that are cheap. They use that putty rather then cut new sheet metal. Would that be any good? I just hate to have the car destroyed by rush when I'm investing in it mechanically
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 05:01 PM
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The car appears to be black but I can't be sure. Mine is white and I used a Dremel tool to grind away the rust that was appearing on my wagon's tailgate just under the window and above the license plate area and then smooth the bare metal that remained. Then I masked the areas and sprayed it with several coats of Rustoleum basic white. I also masked a couple of rusty scratches on the lower part of the passenger door and rear fender, right over the rust. I'm betting that in 2 years, if anything has popped back out, I can touch it up again.

At 5 feet, if you don't know what to look for, you'd never see the spots, even though I didn't blend the paint and just pulled the tape off, leaving a small paint ridge.


That said, if it was the wife's 211, I'm certain that I'd be less cavalier about hiding the rust.

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 06:37 PM
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I had very good experience with rust converter. It actually eats the corrosion chemically and converts it to protective coat.
Best part, you just spray it and leave for couple of days , respray again and after another couple of days it is ready for paint.
All loose stuff needs to be scraped before.
When you live in "Salty" climate - protecting paint chips is very important or in 1 year you will have blisters and in another 2 years- rust bucket.


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Last edited by Kajtek1; 11-22-2015 at 06:39 PM.
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 07:39 PM
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Yes, I check for any specks of rust before every winter. They can grow like crazy during the cold, salty season.

JonBoy--no bodyshop will fix it without painting the entire panel. For just the paint on one panel, you're looking at $250 at a cheap place. The good places will want to blend into the adjacent panels (for more $). And that's not including the repair!

Digmenow--try it with a brush the way I described. No masking necessary. You can also come back later and wetsand and buff if you want it to look good from 12 inches.

JonBoy--this advice is specifically for the rust you can see. There is undoubtedly rust you can't see (but that doesn't affect the value as much, until you can see it. Check right under the door latch, on top of the doors under the rubber, around the hood ornament, etc. Put a stop to everything before it spreads. Rust on a car is just like cancer on a human. Think of it that way and catch it as early as you can.

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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OK, the car was int he shop for that bad CPS and I had him check it form head to toe. He only does ME/BE cars and has a very good rep. Local here in Port Chester. The car needed front and rear axels! I did notice a clicking sound when I turned. He charged me $1200.00. He said the parts are the exact same as dealer and brand new. Plus the CPS, oil change, brake fluid flush, inspection, filters etc. Bill is $1750
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 12:46 PM
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The cars are high-maintenance and maintenance on them is expensive! I could never afford to own one if I didn't do all the work myself. If you can come here before buying one, Everyone would've told you to get a pre-purchase inspection.
Also, as far as I know, there are Mercedes Brand axles, which are expensive, and everything else, which are really cheap. I think I paid well under $150 each for my axles. This makes me worried about the mechanic you are using. Also, if he did a thorough inspection, he probably would've found more things. I suggest you go to someone else reputable and pay 200 for them to go over it very well. You might be very surprised at what it will need in the near future, and how much this stuff will cost. You could then make the decision on whether or not to keep investing in the car. You will be very lucky if the car is not a money pit. Look up "common problems" on this forum. My car was very well maintained and rust free when I bought it 4 years ago. I am sure If I were going to the dealer, I would've paid thousands of dollars a year to keep it in good running shape. I like the feeling of saving so much money--since repairs on this car would cost so much otherwise.
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by fosmith View Post
Sound like exact symptoms of a bad CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor). When they go, they fail when hot and the car will just crank but not start. Then it will start working again after cooling off.

Not an expensive part nor a difficult repair. Make sure you get the correct part for your car. They changed it mid production and the two versions are not interchangeable. Check the Stickies for a DIY.

Fred
Not sure if your car has it, but if it does, replace the overvolt protection relay...they are cheap and take all of 2 minutes to replace!! Just went thru the identical starting problem with my 94 C280 several months ago...replaced crank and cam position sensors (as well as the magnetic cam sensor that was leaking oil) and still had the starting problem. I then read about the OVP relay and saw that it too could cause the exact same starting problems. I replaced it, and it instantly solved the problem completely!

As for the rust, ask your local MB dealer who THEY use for body repairs. Their choice will be well versed at the intricacies of Mercedes disassembly/reassembly. The W210's tend to be rust prone. I had a 99 E300 that was always kept indoors, washed a couple times a week and generally treated like a family member...and it still rusted to pieces in exactly the same places yours is...meanwhile my '87 W124 and W201 are totally rust free.

J.G.
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 05:14 PM
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Not sure if your car has it, but if it does, replace the overvolt protection relay...they are cheap and take all of 2 minutes to replace!! Just went thru the identical starting problem with my 94 C280 several months ago...replaced crank and cam position sensors (as well as the magnetic cam sensor that was leaking oil) and still had the starting problem. I then read about the OVP relay and saw that it too could cause the exact same starting problems. I replaced it, and it instantly solved the problem completely!...
Never heard of an overvolt protection relay. What does it do? Besides go bad and prevent the car from starting, that is? ;-) Does the W210 have this component?

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