What have you done for your W210 today/lately? - Page 51 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #501 of 515 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 08:41 PM
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Sprayed the stupid yellow jackets that are trying to make nests under the hood, in doorjambs and around the trunk! Hate those things!

Maybe I should drive it more? Hehe
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post #502 of 515 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 08:33 AM
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Used my OBD2 Reader for the first time

After topping up my oil and washer fluid and letting a bit of air out of the tires (the weather is finally warming up here in Toronto and the tires were all up a few pounds) I used my new OBD2 reader to try and find out why my check engine light came on last week. No real drivability issues, power is down just slightly, and I have notices my gas mileage is up a bit so figure I'm running a bit lean. Got code P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirc - Flow. Time to book an appointment with the dealer I guess.
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post #503 of 515 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by PriestJc View Post
After topping up my oil and washer fluid and letting a bit of air out of the tires (the weather is finally warming up here in Toronto and the tires were all up a few pounds) I used my new OBD2 reader to try and find out why my check engine light came on last week. No real drivability issues, power is down just slightly, and I have notices my gas mileage is up a bit so figure I'm running a bit lean. Got code P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirc - Flow. Time to book an appointment with the dealer I guess.
Try this first: (Courtesy of Greg)
I can't tell you exactly what part of the EGR that pertains to, nor am I sure how precise the codes are. That said, this is how I'd proceed.

1. Disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR valve and fit a longer piece of hose on it. Suck on it and be sure the diaphram holds vacuum (if you have to keep sucking on it that is bad). If it does not hold vacuum, replace the valve.

2. Remove the little plastic check valve (one end won't be connected, this is normal). Note which end is plugged in. Inspect it for cracks/damage and suck on it. It should allow air flow in one direction only. If it is suspect, replace it.

3. If it checks out thus far, then remove the EGR valve and tube. Clean both thoroughly (the tube can be particularly troublesome to clean, pipe cleaners can help) and check the diaphram (again) and make sure the mechanism moves smoothly (visual check) when you apply vacuum. If not, replace it.

4. Inspect the gasket for damage, if any is present, replace it.

5. Replace/clean/reinstall as necessary.

Reset codes and drive car, see if the issue is resolved.


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post #504 of 515 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE55 View Post
Try this first: (Courtesy of Greg)
I can't tell you exactly what part of the EGR that pertains to, nor am I sure how precise the codes are. That said, this is how I'd proceed.

1. Disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR valve and fit a longer piece of hose on it. Suck on it and be sure the diaphram holds vacuum (if you have to keep sucking on it that is bad). If it does not hold vacuum, replace the valve.

2. Remove the little plastic check valve (one end won't be connected, this is normal). Note which end is plugged in. Inspect it for cracks/damage and suck on it. It should allow air flow in one direction only. If it is suspect, replace it.

3. If it checks out thus far, then remove the EGR valve and tube. Clean both thoroughly (the tube can be particularly troublesome to clean, pipe cleaners can help) and check the diaphram (again) and make sure the mechanism moves smoothly (visual check) when you apply vacuum. If not, replace it.

4. Inspect the gasket for damage, if any is present, replace it.

5. Replace/clean/reinstall as necessary.

Reset codes and drive car, see if the issue is resolved.
I did all of the above and still got the code. So I replaced the EGR valve assy. and that fixed it. Must have been the electronic component of the valve. Fortunately, it's not a super expensive part but I shudder to think what the repair would have cost at the dealer...
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post #505 of 515 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 04:35 PM
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Changed the CPS on my 1999 E320 today as a preventative measure because my kid is taking the car to college in the fall.

Does anyone know what the resistance range is for the CPS?

The E320 sensor (Bosch) was tested at 1.1 K ohms. It was replaced with a new OEM one with the name and part number grinded off. It tested at .659 K ohms. I also have an OEM one removed from my former 1999 CLK320 with 25,470 miles (on sensor) which tested at .664 K ohms.

Last edited by 260e crusier; 05-25-2019 at 07:58 PM.
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post #506 of 515 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 04:15 PM
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'97 E420) Well let's see; I decided to repair the lower core support. (someone had curbed it, and fan hitting radiator) So, I remove radiator, and find that not only is the cradle bent, but some welds are popped loose. I remove the cradle, straighten it, and re-install it. Got it all sealed, and shot a coat of paint on it, re- installed the radiator, got it all buttoned up just in time for my Granddaughters birthday party.
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Thanx,
Shorty.

"If you set out to fail, and succeed, which have you done?"
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post #507 of 515 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 01:59 PM
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changed my front shocks.....car handles better
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post #508 of 515 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 03:03 PM
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Changed oil, oil filter, and air filter.

1999 E300
606,076 miles
I bought it new.
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post #509 of 515 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 12:13 AM
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Been wanting to do a double DIN conversion for the longest time, of course the only proper way to do this is to pay Mercedes $400 for the proper control stack trim and $50 for the double DIN cage. Was scouring eBay and the cheapest cage, trim, and COMAND bundle is $600.

Went to Pick-n-Pull the other week looking for a power window master switch, and the very first car I look at I hit the jackpot.

Paid $20 for all that including the instrument cluster.

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post #510 of 515 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 10:14 AM
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So, I was driving the car a little harder than usual this past week, faster accelerations, etc. And the check-engine light went off on it's own.
Been driving quite a bit the past few days, lots of miles, and the CEL has not come back on. I get no codes no with the OBD2 reader now either.
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