What have you done for your W210 today/lately? - Page 42 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #411 of 515 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 07:17 PM
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Vehicle: 2001 E320 4Matic Wagon named "Weecle von Diva"
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OEM front license plate bracket & stainless self-tapping mounting bolts. Here in the coastal Northeast, rust-stained license plates abound, and few things better symbolize indifference to basic car maintenance.
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post #412 of 515 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 09:36 PM
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Worked a bit on my tail light harness/plug/bulb holder modification to get rid of the "BULB MALFUNCTION" message that drives me crazy!
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post #413 of 515 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 06:57 PM
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Nice work. In post #409 you show two photos of the mudflap installation. Question regarding the area just behind the front wheel. There is a rubber strip between the plastic rocker panel and the metal fender that is about a foot+/- long. I looks like you replaced those. If so can you either give me a part number or source? Need to replace those on my E320. (all I need are the rubber strips, the rocker panels are OK on my car)



Clarification, that was for "JBA&LNS" and looks like post 410 not 409....regarding the rubber strip question

Last edited by raymond-; 07-16-2018 at 09:47 PM.
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post #414 of 515 (permalink) Old 07-13-2018, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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"...he's dead, Jim" that's what I found when I went to check on my car several
days ago. I have been so busy this Summer I skipped a periodic trickle charge
or two. pulled the Fluke 82 and it read ".018" volts.

since this was severe enough a discharge it warranted an inspection of the
battery. I pulled it out and popped the caps. acid level looked a scootch low
so I filled it just below the filler tube and placed it on the charger.

after a couple of days (and several checks) it appears good. specific gravity
density also good and no goobers seen on the top edges of the lead plates.
initial voltage check reads 13.12. I will monitor this for the rest of the day
and take it out for a long drive.

update 1 week later:
in the days following the battery recharge, the voltage readings were consistent
and remained high. BUT! ... i figured out how/why the battery drain likely occurred.
I considered a black box/module not going to sleep though if it had, it would have
been the first time.

Secondly, since the voltage readings after charging remained high, the symptoms
of a parasitic drain should have resurfaced but it didn't.

Well, I think I know how the battery drained to .18 VDC.

I normally apply a tapering charge every month. The previous time, I placed the
metal Craftsman 10/50 amp atop the engine manifold case so the puppy wouldn't
get to it. That was a mistake. Though the manifold cover is plastic, the charger
apparently was jostled to where the charger's metal chassis touched the magnesium

I tested this theory just now by popping the Fluke between the manifold and the "+"
terminal post in the engine compartment. walla, 12.7 volts. In effect, I had been
charging the battery...yet at the same time, I was shorting it out.

I also performed a continuity check between the exterior of the charger to the tips
of the POS battery clamp = .8 ohms

So let this be a lesson to anyone who still has an old school battery charger with a
metal clad exterior. Place a sheet of insulation (plywood, rubber mat, etc) between
the charger and the engine manifold

I always check the voltage immediately after charging but the 12+ volt reading a
couple months back was just a surface charge reading.

47º34'N 122º18'W

Last edited by raymond-; 07-21-2018 at 11:45 AM.
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post #415 of 515 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 12:49 AM
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Changed the front spring support
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post #416 of 515 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 06:46 AM
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Recently just an oil change.

Next week when I have a day off I plan on doing the following.
Transmission fluid and filter change
Crank case breather reseal
Brake fluid flush
Differential fluid change
Power steering fluid top off

Next I plan on installing new tires all around, coolant drain and fill, and power steering flush.

Later I plan on addressing a noisy lifter, honestly might just replace them or track down the failed lifter individually. I'm going to subscribe to ALL DATA DIY for this particular job.
All will be DIYed except the tires.
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post #417 of 515 (permalink) Old 07-20-2018, 12:28 PM
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Vehicle: Current: 2014 C250 Luxury 40k ,1999 E430 217k, 1998 C230 156k
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I went to the local junk yard yesterday and removed two excellent condition 1998 c230 left and right side exterior mirror rubber gaskets to finally replace my crumbled and splitting ones on my '99 430 with 217+ miles. Amazing the rubber quality used on the C class vs the E...20 years old and after some clean up with Gummi rubber conditioner look like new!
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post #418 of 515 (permalink) Old 07-21-2018, 12:06 PM
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Date registered: Jun 2008
Vehicle: 2001 E430 217K mi. Obsidian Black metallic, Ash/Orion Grey interior
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Polished up my yellowed, hazy headlights. No kits. No drills. No buffer wheels. No power tools. No masking off the fender. Just some rubbing compound on a damp terrycloth followed by Novus Plastic Polish #2. Then buffed out with soft cloth.

Not a permanent fix but 20 minutes of work twice a year - that, I can handle...
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post #419 of 515 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 06:38 PM
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installed new wheels on my E55

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post #420 of 515 (permalink) Old 07-29-2018, 06:51 AM
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Finally fixed up my daily, mechanical wise anyway, rear pads and discs, rear calipers, tires, hood latches and cable (what a pain), replaced the cup holder, mirror button, two coil packs, tailights, left side exhaust, list goes on

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