722.6 transmission code 147 / p0700 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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722.6 transmission code 147 / p0700

Started a new thread on the ongoing transmission problem.

Had the codes scanned and cleared today. Codes 147 and p0700 came up. The ATF fluid level is good.

1) Any one heard of these codes coming up when solenoids are bad?


2)originally had:
a) the speed sensor damage on conductor plate
b) leaking plug w/ atf in TCU
c) coolant in atf/bad radiator

After new conductor plate, new radiator and bathed plug and tcu the car ran great for 2 months. Shifting was like butter no problems.

Took the car in today and they said:
1) wrong size battery (someone swapped out for a smaller incorrect size at some point)
2)codes came up as P0700 and 147 (gear implausible, trans slipping)

Mechanic says he suspects the transmission clutch is worn and damaged by the coolant contamination.

I suspect it might be the solenoids because there is a wicked whine coming from the transmission even while it is in park and neutral.

Anyone have this problem before? Heard a couple guys say it was just a wet plug and tcu. I'm thinking that since the plug and cables were wet with atf at one point they may still be contaminating the TCU board.

Has anyone removed the complete wire harness from Conductor to TCU and had luck with repairs?

I Bought the plug from Mercedes and Conductor plate was purchased from a different vendor.

Is it possible the conductor plate is bad?
Solenoids?
Valve body needs updated sonnax guides?

Would like to explore all options before giving up on this trans. It shifted amazing very recently.


I will lift car up and check plug for oil contamination again. Also TCU. But I'm hearing a major whine from car, does anyone know if that is due to solenoid contamination or failure?
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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 07:00 PM
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did tranny go in limp mode, did cel come on, or mechanic told you there is error code? error code could have been stored if error codes weren,t properly erased last time conductor plate was replaced.
is the whine very loud at all times regardless p/r/n/d, or only in d or r? is atf level correct?
if atf level is correct, plug and tcu are dry, and shifting is smooth, and code doesn,t come back than just drive the car.
you are in la, mercedes mechanic (forum member) is in la and he might help you, he knows a lot. get in touch with him. prob much cheaper than anywhere else, and he really knows these trannies

Last edited by tirona; 03-23-2013 at 07:04 PM.
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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 09:01 PM
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The whine is the killer. It is the failure K2 bearing which destroys the planetary gears.

Now, If you are entertaining it to get it fixed, go to these guys. They are the best in Metropolitan Los Angeles. They will give you a honest quote.

rebuilt remanufactured mercedes benz automatic transmissions

If you are going the second-hand route(for what ever reason), make sure you get the transmission computer from the donor car too. 1997 was the year with many valve-body updates to the 722.6, and the transmission computer has shift issues with any later years.

Best of luck,

Martin
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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tirona View Post
did tranny go in limp mode, did cel come on, or mechanic told you there is error code? error code could have been stored if error codes weren,t properly erased last time conductor plate was replaced.
is the whine very loud at all times regardless p/r/n/d, or only in d or r? is atf level correct?
if atf level is correct, plug and tcu are dry, and shifting is smooth, and code doesn,t come back than just drive the car.
you are in la, mercedes mechanic (forum member) is in la and he might help you, he knows a lot. get in touch with him. prob much cheaper than anywhere else, and he really knows these trannies
Tranny went into limp mode, CEL and Check engine light came on. Last time the conductor plate was replaced they didn't clear the codes. They told me it didn't need to be cleared. And it ran great for 2 months.

Tirona, thanks for the help!

The whine is present but not very loud in park, but once acceleration begins the whine is louder. It will make the whine sound in R and Drive as well. If the car is in neutral it resumes with noise but not as loud.

ATF level is correct, but I and the mechanic have not checked the plug to see if it continues dry. I will remove the plug tomorrow to see if their is any oil in it. It should be dry if the connector is separated correct? It should have no seal broken when the plug is removed that may introduce oil to the pin area, correct?

Upon driving the car home once the codes were cleared the CEL and Check engine light came on.

I'll try to get in touch with Mercedes Mechanic on the forum. Thanks for the reco.
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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MAVA View Post
The whine is the killer. It is the failure K2 bearing which destroys the planetary gears.

Now, If you are entertaining it to get it fixed, go to these guys. They are the best in Metropolitan Los Angeles. They will give you a honest quote.

rebuilt remanufactured mercedes benz automatic transmissions

If you are going the second-hand route(for what ever reason), make sure you get the transmission computer from the donor car too. 1997 was the year with many valve-body updates to the 722.6, and the transmission computer has shift issues with any later years.

Best of luck,

Martin

Thanks for the help MAVA,
I'll get a hold of these guys for sure. Need as much help as possible. Really would like to save the transmission and would like to try all the options before going the rebuild route though... The second-hand transmission I found recently was from a totaled Merc, same year with only 75k miles on it. Sounds like a good investment at $500. I can always replace the simple components within just to make sure I don't have to open it up again anytime soon. Still just want to see if there is anything that remains available for me to try on my own. Solenoids, valve guides are fairly simple to do on this transmission. I can do that myself before handing it over to the $xperts, if you know what I mean. Thanks again for the help.

Just wondering if anyone had experience with the whine being fixed by the replacement of the solenoids or valve guides. Now that you mention the K2 bearing I'm beginning to think the solenoids are out of the question.

Its just that I've heard the same whine sound prior to this and it went away once the codes were cleared right after installing the conductor plate and cleaning the plug/TCU. Just seems like something a similar situation. Hard to believe the gears are done when it was shifting so smoothly before the limp home situation.
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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 10:07 PM
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I'll try to get in touch with Mercedes Mechanic on the forum. Thanks for the reco.
I say we hit it with the biggest hammer I have and see what happens?

The input speed sensor spring isnt holding the sensor far enough in the bore to be read all the time.


Fix that and you should solve your issue.

Top five reasons I posted in your topic:

1. You're talking about god, there has never been any god of any kind. EVER!

2. I just have a general dislike of you.

3. I am trying to tell you how to fix your Mercedes and you are not listening.

4. I'm flirting with Jody.

5. You're just to dumb to own a Mercedes, and should go buy a Honda.

Last edited by Mercedes mechanic; 03-23-2013 at 10:15 PM.
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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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I say we hit it with the biggest hammer I have and see what happens?

Hahah! I was just wondering how to get a hold of you! Glad to have your expertise on board. And I'll help with the hammer if you will tell me what to smash first! ahahha!

So far the only smashing has been my brains trying to figure this one out.

Seems like such a simple fix. I feel like a break through is ready to happen, either that or you and I are about to break through the TCU with a hammer!
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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 10:20 PM
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^^^^


The input speed sensor spring isnt holding the sensor far enough in the bore to be read all the time.

Top five reasons I posted in your topic:

1. You're talking about god, there has never been any god of any kind. EVER!

2. I just have a general dislike of you.

3. I am trying to tell you how to fix your Mercedes and you are not listening.

4. I'm flirting with Jody.

5. You're just to dumb to own a Mercedes, and should go buy a Honda.
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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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I say we hit it with the biggest hammer I have and see what happens?

The input speed sensor spring isnt holding the sensor far enough in the bore to be read all the time.


Fix that and you should solve your issue.

That sounds like a very doable procedure! It makes a lot of sense! It just seems almost exactly like when the sensor was cracked! If the spring is not keeping it close enough it makes sense the readings will be incorrect! I will try this tomorrow. I'm sure I can just bend the bottom spring somehow, right? any other recommendations on how the spring can be modified! I feel like a weight has been lifted just knowing there is a potential fix! Thanks for that!
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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by LX XLer8 View Post
That sounds like a very doable procedure! It makes a lot of sense! It just seems almost exactly like when the sensor was cracked! If the spring is not keeping it close enough it makes sense the readings will be incorrect! I will try this tomorrow. I'm sure I can just bend the bottom spring somehow, right? any other recommendations on how the spring can be modified! I feel like a weight has been lifted just knowing there is a potential fix! Thanks for that!
The sensor is on top of the conductor plate, the holes that is sense's is drilled into the reverse/first bell.

It has to be close enough to read, but far enough it don't hit the bell as it spins.

I usually rotate the bell with a pick, until there is a non-sensor hole area (solid) exposed.

Then I use a cereal box fragment (1/4 by 1/4inch) and smear a half drop of (silicone) rtv between my fingers and swipe the cardboard with rtv. (enough to make it sticky, but not tooooo sticky) I then place it onto the top of the sensor. Adjust the spring until the sensor is in the bore as far as it will allow (with the cardboard still on there)

I reassemble everything. Then fill/start/check.

The first time you start it the first/reverse bell swipes the cardboard off the top of the sensor and it is perfectly in place without hitting. Now sending the proper wavelength to allow proper speed sensing.


Also without the sensor working you will get a whine due to over pressure in the pump. You will only hear this whine in park or neutral, as in gear it will use the pressure, re-leaving the whining sound.

Top five reasons I posted in your topic:

1. You're talking about god, there has never been any god of any kind. EVER!

2. I just have a general dislike of you.

3. I am trying to tell you how to fix your Mercedes and you are not listening.

4. I'm flirting with Jody.

5. You're just to dumb to own a Mercedes, and should go buy a Honda.
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