98 E300 loss of power - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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98 E300 loss of power

I have a 98 E300TD...Over the past couple of weeks I have noticed a lack in power and a hissing noise coming from what seemed under the driver side of the engine compartment...I thought the o-ring for the intercooler pipe might be bad so a replaced it and still same noise and lack of power...Going uphill the engine revs to 3500 or 4000 rpm but continues to lose mph...I was looking under the hood today trying to find out exactly where the hissing was coming from...sounds like it is near the turbo...opposite side of the car that I thought it was coming from...there is also alot of sooty material on the crossover pipe and in the general area of the turbo...is the turbo shot...how can I test this...any help would be greatly appreciated...the car has a little over 130,000 miles on it...
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 09:45 AM
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Standing in front of the car----------you have two vacuum transducers, a right and a left------the left should be attached to the air intake and the right to the right wheel well check to make sure that the lines are on. The right side is apart of the boost pressure control vacuum unit below the turbo. The rght side is apart of the EGR system. While on the right side also check the boost presure line-----very difficult to see because it is under the charge(intake) manifold and connected to the EGR valve.

Additionally there are two very small round clear plastic vacuum intake filters apart of the R and L vacuum system---make sure they are clean. The left one is up by the duovalve the left one is attached to the right front wheel well

These all regulated via voltage by the Engine Control Unit. Lets hope its not that!!

I am also amazed that your check engine light has not come on!! Oh well.


Goodluck!!
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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thank you for the input...the check engine light has been on for sometime now I just assumed it was due to the glow plugs that need replacing...project for this fall...I will check the things you have suggested...do you know what would explain the whirring noise as if there is an air leak?...
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 01:30 PM
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FYI The previous owner on my car left the CE light on for along time, because when I got the car I replaced the MAF and the light went out. However when I went to change the cluster bulbs the check engine bulbs plastic holder was fused to the socket. I did not realize that and when I twisted and remove the bulb, the bulb broke off and I was left with a mess to figure out how to get the rest of the bulb out of the socket.

My suggestion-----Don't leave the CE light on for a long time---go and have the fault cleared at Advance Auto. Good luck!!
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 01:39 PM
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How do you start fixing the car with 3, or possible more problems at the same time?
Start with reading the codes and taking one thing at the time.
When I had wastegate error triggering the CEL, it put the engine in some kind of safe mode. The engine did run, but with about 80% of normal power. Sounds like this is what MIGHT happen to OP
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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definitely a rough start...the car does have some power...once it warms up it seems to be worse...having codes read later and will start from there...thanks so much for the information...
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 05:06 PM
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Rough start would be air leak into the fuel lines. Did you try the nose down procedure?
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 03:35 AM
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Hi,
I've got the same problem. No engine lights coming on. however, my OM606 engine is losing power on hills, the pump becomes very noisy and the engine misfires. Especially if you come to a halt, jump out and check for air in the fuel lines. When the MAF is unplugged the misfire goes away but it is not the MAF sensor or the air intake temperature IAT sensor as these have recently been replaced. I am yet to replace the tank strainer. I think the pump is causing cavitation. Apparently, Bosch wanted these pumps to run on a 10mm bore. Mercedes reduced this down to 6mm at the tank end on the hose tail that screws into the strainer. Not a good move for older pumps. Your problem could be the turbo or the control unit for it... I am trying to source the part number for the G-Waggon hose tail. This should theoretically be 8mm for the same pump.
Chris
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