Accumulator replacement and torque values - Page 4 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #31 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loubapache View Post
There is kind of a way to see if the accumulators are bad but they have to come off the car. Since you have taken them off, Sergio, and if you still have them, you can try it.

Stick a screwdriver gently into the big hole and see how far it goes in. If it goes all the way in, then for sure they are shot. If it hits the membrane somewhere, then there is a chance that it is not shot but you cannot conclude it is goo either because the leak could be around the membrane.
I wonder if a more reliable way of telling if they had failed might be to weigh them?

If they were full of fluid, they should weigh significantly more than empty (functional) ones

I am thinking about servicing mine. 132K, new to me, and no record of them being replaced. I can't really tell by the ride, but it does seam a little stiff. I have been bouncing around in pickup trucks and Subaru's for thirty years, so I can't be sure.

Does anyone have a new one they can weigh?

Ski hard or go home!
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post #32 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 06:48 PM
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Guys, maybe I missed something but I haven't see anything mentioned about the sway bar links in the back.
A while ago, I was getting crazy by a noise in the back of my car. I couldn't detect where it was coming from (this was a 240D W123) . When you raise the car on the jacks you put the sway bar link in tension and it is hard to detect the defect. When you have weight in the back, the sway bar link will be under load and again it will become quiet ( this explain the quiet ride with the kids in the back). When there is nothing in the back and go over bumps, that's the time the sway bar link bushings are rattling (if worn out). Just an opinion. Changing those plastic ( if I remember correct) sway bar links solved my problem ( again this was on a W123 body). It is too late now to go out side and take a picture of what we have on W210 being wagon or sedan.
I do have a rough ride on my 2002 wagon, but I am thinking to change the entire system and go with conventional shocks (cheaper I hope). My shocks were wet, but when I removed the boot to see what's inside to my surprise I couldn't find any oil there.
I don't want to jump to another subject.
Enjoy the ride.
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post #33 of 47 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 03:43 PM
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I'm seriously trying to diagnosis my 2001 W210 as well. The back end just rides so rough and seems to "bottom" out. (I'm not sure it actually is though)
My father-in-law is a long time mechanic (now retired) and he noticed it right away. Not knowing anything about the system on the W210 he just said, you need new struts in the rear.

After some research I'm finding out its not so simple as some struts or shocks! (of course
Can we try to agree on a set of steps for diagnosing the rear suspension?
Also, where have people had the best luck sourcing accumulators and fluid?

thanks!
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post #34 of 47 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 12:03 PM
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I should add some info.
I just did this on my 2001 W210, and fortunately for me, it seemed to solve the problem (rear end was riding very rough)
My fluid was down significantly below the min. level. being that its a closed system, I figured my accumulators were bad.

The process above is accurate. Nothing tricky.
I happened to have started on the drivers side. When I loosened the low pressure fitting, the drivers side squatted significantly. This made for less room to get the cylinder out. Not sure if starting on the passenger side would fix that. I was still able to get the accumulator in, but had to shimmy the exhaust a bit to push it in.

Also, I was having a hard time getting the passenger side high pressure hose fitting back in and didn't want to cross-thread it. I ended up putting in the high pressure fitting loosely BEFORE I put the cylinder into place and connected the low pressure line.

Lastly, I broke off one of the bolts on the new accumulator by over tightening it, so don't go crazy! They're not particularly big lugs, so they just need to be tight enough.

Also, when I was done in the rear, I filled the fluid reservoir to the max level, started the car and bounced up and down alot on the back. It raised the rear end back to correct ride height and then I had to top of the reservoir again.

Hope this helps.

Oh, and I bought the accumulators and fluid from Autohausaz.com (107$ for each accumulator, $10 for the fluid.)
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post #35 of 47 (permalink) Old 07-10-2011, 06:37 AM
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thanks a lot
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post #36 of 47 (permalink) Old 07-25-2011, 10:48 PM
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Fluid...

Thanks for the info Gcavy (sp?) Where did you get the fluid and do you remember what you paid for it?
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post #37 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-02-2013, 09:07 AM
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I noticed that the write-ups I have seen on accumulators do not address the hydraulic fluid replacement procedures. Here are the steps I used a few weeks ago on my car which includes depressurizing (bleeding) the rear-end hydraulic leveling system, replacing the accumulators, replacing the hydraulic fluid, and rear suspension operation check. I added some notes along the way that may help you. These steps came from the WIS documents which I have attached. My understanding is that when you replace the accumulators, you must replace both at the same time.

1) Put rear of wagon on jack stands (not stated specifically in WIS, but I wouldn't be able to get the accumulators off easily any other way).
2) Remove rear tires
3) Detach the link rod on the level control lever. Best position to access this is on the passenger side rear wheel well.
4) Open the level controller oil drain screw (I think I used an 11mm box wrench). Drain the fluid out. Close the drain screw. Notes: The drain screw was very tight and I needed to spray WD40 and waited 15 minutes before being able to loosen the drain screw. I used a 1/4" ID tube and put a bucket underneath to catch the fluid. Probably took about 30 minutes to drain the fluid. I drained almost exactly 1 liter of fluid.
5) Removed passenger side accumulator and installed new accumulator. Others have posted plenty of documentation on this. But here is what I did: First, put a bucket underneath the accumulator. No need for a drain tube. Unscrew large fitting first and let it drain, then unscrew the small fitting and let it drain. Fluid will drain out for a less than a minute, if that. Then disconnect the three bolts that hold the accumulator in place. Take off the accumulator. Install the new accumulator reversing the above sequence.
6) remove driver's side accumulator and install new accumulator. Same procedure as above.
7) syphon all the hydraulic fluid out of the reservoir which is located in the engine compartment. I used a simple $3 disposable syphon hand pump and drained it into a bucket. Fill the reservoir with new fluid to max line. I used Fuchs Titan ZH 5364B.
8) Replace hydraulic fluid filter with new filter. It is located on the reservoir cap. This is a total PITA process. This process is documented in the stickies. Make sure you tighten the reservoir cap when finished!
9) set level controller lever to "F" position
10) start engine. Keep it in park! Run engine for 60 seconds at 2500rpm. Turn engine off. Notes: During that time, the fluid reservoir drops quite a bit and you will hear a very loud whistling/whining noise coming from the rear end. This is normal. Do not add any fluid to the reservoir during this process. Just make sure the fluid level doesn't drop too far so that the pump sucks in air (If you started with the fluid at the max line, I don't see this happening). The level controller in the "F" position allows the fluid to fill the rear struts. This causes the rear end to rise. This fluid comes from the reservoir causing the reservoir level to drop. That is why the reservoir is so large.
11) set the level controller lever to "L" position for 60 seconds. Once you move the controller level to the "L" position, you will hear the fluid draining out of the rear struts. If you check the reservoir during this time, you will see the fluid level rise.
12) Well after the 60 seconds required in the "L" position, I secured the link rod on the level control lever. I noticed that the position of the lever stayed basically in the "L" position.
13) Put the wheels back on and take the car off the jack stands.
14) Open the wagon hatch and bounce up and down on the rear end about 10 times.
15) Check fluid level in the reservoir and fill to "max" line, if needed.
16) Measure the height of the rear on both sides. I measured 27 3/8" on drivers side and 27 5/8" on passenger side. Height measured from ground to top of wheel well.
17) I started car and drove it several miles to Lowes. No problems.
18) I folded down the back seats and filled the cargo area with about 500lbs of bagged top soil and peat moss. I drove home and measured the rear height. It was about 26 3/4", if I remember correctly. So, that seems to work.

I can't say for sure how much new fluid I added to the system. I think somewhere around 2.5 liters. The reason I don't know is that I screwed up a few times during this process and fluid sprayed all over the engine compartment. I also added fluid while the level was going down during the "F" position and it drained back out of the reservoir when the lever was put back in the "L" position.

There are several additional things you can do that I didn't. For example, the hydraulic fluid supports the power steering. AMG posted a nice DIY on the p/s fluid replacement where he moved the steering wheel back/forth several times. I didn't do that.

I hope this helps someone in the future. Good luck.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Rear suspension-control module - Operation check.pdf (372.2 KB, 486 views)
File Type: pdf Emptying and filling pressurized oil system.pdf (574.3 KB, 779 views)
File Type: pdf Rear hydraulic suspension pressure accumulator, removal and installation.pdf (473.2 KB, 700 views)
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Last edited by todd_raleigh; 11-05-2013 at 09:17 AM.
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post #38 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-04-2013, 11:18 AM
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Todd,

Thank you for your posting, and I know you made a few mud-pies in the process, but here is a process for the next time you do it. Look at posts 11 through 16 on this thread:

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140...e-killing.html

How is your SLS doing? Sitting normal in the rear? By the way, How is your rear tires wearing?

Martin
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post #39 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-04-2013, 12:42 PM
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Hi Martin,

Sometimes learning involves making mud pies!

Thanks for the link. That is certainly a quick way to drain/replace the hydraulic fluid.

The SLS is sitting fine, as far as I can tell. My tires, though, have a little outer wear - both edges of each tire - indicating low tire pressure. My fault for that. The front tires are fine.

I saw in your other post that you have a low rear-end. What is the height on both sides?

Within the next 30-45 days, I'm replacing the entire front end suspension (including upper control arms, lower control arm bushings, tie rods (inner and outer), sway bar bushings, link rods, ball joints, shocks). If all goes well, I may tackle the rear sway bar links, tie rods, and rear sub-frame bushings. Then go to MB and get an all-wheel alignment. Maybe tires after that.
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post #40 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-04-2013, 02:30 PM
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Hello Todd,

Glad it worked out well after your struggles with the bleeding. I'm going to do the bleeding first with the filter. I hope that improves the ride height. I know my height is always wrong in the Fall and Winter as my headlights are blinding people. I do not live in the metropolitan area of town, so their lots of two-lane roads...

My drivers rear height is 26-1/4", and the passenger rear is 26-1/2"(all measurements are from the apex of the fender well). Here are my pictures. I took them today, and the car has not moved in two days.

Sadly, my rear tires are wearing on the inside that I've been riding on used tires because I just eat them up so quickly. I've changed the rears about six times in about three-years, so it does not make sense to put new tires.

I found this interesting link:

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...ment-arms.html

Though it is for the guys who lower their cars which is not me, but it has some good theory about part replacement for the rear suspension. Here is one with some good meat in it..

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...-due-lack.html

It starts on post 37, but post 40 has the solution...

My rear is bad, so I need to fix it first.

I look forward to see your post on your DIY...Do you have the spring compressor yet?

Martin
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Last edited by MAVA; 11-04-2013 at 02:33 PM.
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