2001 E320 - Motor Mount Replacement - You Can Do It! - Mercedes-Benz Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-09-2006, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
BenzWorld Newbie
 
Date registered: Apr 2006
Vehicle: 2001 E320
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
2001 E320 - Motor Mount Replacement - You Can Do It!

Rough idle? Rough acceleration? Really rough in reverse? Over 50,000 miles? I bet your motor mounts have leaked out all their oil and your engine is sitting on your frame - metal touching metal! I speak from experience.

I replaced my motor mounts today. It looks hard and was easy and took about three hours. Here's the details.

Remove the plastic splash guard from under the motor. There are holes in the crossmember that allow easy access to the motor mount's lower bolts. Remove the lower bolts. By the way, purchase a set of ratchet wrenches before you start - you'll want them when you work on the upper bolts. I would have paid alot for a set when I needed them!

The passanger side upper mount is best reached from the top. Remove it and the metal shield under it. This will take a while because you can get about 1/12th of a turn before running out of room between the motor and the inner fender. Thus the value of the ratchet wrench - there is not enough room for a socket wrench.

The driver side upper bolt is best reached from under the car. You might as well unbolt the AC compressor now, because you'll need to slide it forward to make a path big enough to remove the driver side mount later. The driver side upper bolt is best reached throught the space where the compressor was. By the way, only three bolts hold the compressor to the engine and it's easier to remove if you take off the surpentine belt before loosening the bolts. While wearing gloves, you can pull on the belt sufficiently to displace the auto tensioner and slide off the belt. Remove the upper bolt and metal shield.

I used a one foot long 2X4 and a floor jack to raise the engine. I positioned the 2X4 across the oil pan (perpendicular to the drive shaft) and raised the engine about 1 inch.

The passenger side mount is removed to the rear over the stearing rack and the driver side mount is removed to the front where the AC compressor was. Both are a tight fit.

I had to raise the motor another inch for the new mounts. Be sure and line up the little post on the top of each mount with the slot it fits in. You'll know what I mean when you're doing this repair.

Don't torque the bottom bolts until threading the top bolts or the top bolts may not line up well. Tighten all four bolts, bolt on the AC compressor and attach the splash guard.

I was able to pull the surpentine belt tight enough by hand (in a glove) to move the auto-tension pulley over far enough for me to put a screwdriver handle in the space between the tensioner pulley and the water pump pulley. (This tip should suggest how accomplished a mechanic I am!) This creates just enough slach in the serpentine belt path that you can get it back on. Remember to remove the screwdriver!

Start your car and enjoy being amazed at the improvement this repair makes. It is worth the trouble - just not worth the hundreds of dollars of labor charges everyone wants!

Good Luck - you can do it!
hamada128 and Rupununipete like this.
texas-patrick is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-11-2006, 08:52 AM
BenzWorld Member
 
Date registered: Aug 2005
Vehicle: 2002 E320 Wagon, 2002 ML320
Posts: 110
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
RE: 2001 E320 - Motor Mount Replacement - You Can Do It!

Right on! Thanks for the great write up, I'm printing that on out for my files. Although I hope I will never need to use it!
87path is offline  
post #3 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-11-2006, 06:02 PM
BenzWorld Extremist
 
Franasia's Avatar
 
Date registered: Jan 2005
Vehicle: 2000 4Matic Estate E320S4 210.282
Location: New England
Posts: 824
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
RE: 2001 E320 - Motor Mount Replacement - You Can Do It!

texas-patrick,

Thanks for your posting. Sounds very encouraging and tempting. Will have to think about it though. [:)]


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Franasia is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 124 (permalink) Old 05-17-2006, 12:45 PM
BenzWorld Junior Member
 
Date registered: Apr 2006
Vehicle: '98 E430
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I just had mine done (98 E430) by a local indy...wish I would've done them myself.

AllData lists 2.4 hours per side, so the garage quoted me based on just under 5 hours. I happened to come back in about 90 minutes and they were already done! I checked and it looks like they were done properly. An interesting negotiation ensued with the shop manager that wasn't very satisfying.

Does the factory procedure call for a different approach? I know AllData is frequently "off" but this seems excessive....

c
CurtB is offline  
post #5 of 124 (permalink) Old 05-17-2006, 04:33 PM
BenzWorld Elite
 
Check Codes's Avatar
 
Date registered: Mar 2005
Vehicle: '01-E320 & 02-ST2
Location: John 15:18-19
Posts: 31,633
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Flat rate...

Actually, Curt, that's pretty typical. Most every repair that can be done is based on flat rate, which is pretty much the time it would take a competent mechanic with the proper tools following a standard procedure to do the job. Of course once they've done it several times they've learned all kinds of tricks and shortcuts, sometimes they make or modify tools to speed it up. Then the flat rate is much more profitable. The only way around that is to pre-negotiate and most shops won't do that. Their point of view is you agreed to a set price and their competence is what saved them time, you're paying for their competence as well as the job itself.

For a different take on flat-rate and shortcuts, I had a friend who was a mechanic in Tucson, had a mid-80s Jag in his shop one day, he was pulling the engine and tranny. I asked him what the heck he was doing and he said, "heater core". Turns out that the flat rate for the heater core was something like 24 hours because you have to disassemble the whole dash. Then you have to try and get it all back together without missing one of the millions of fasteners and not pinch any wires, etc. And hope you don't have any rattles. Good luck. Anyway, he'd learned that you can pull the engine and tranny, do a quick cut-out on the firewall, swap out the heater core, patch up the firewall, drop the engine/tranny back in and have it done in about 6-7 hours. He was honest with his customers, though, and didn't charge full flat-rate, plus he figured they should know he would be cutting their firewall.

Anyway, so long as the job was done right and they didn't exceed their quote, that's the most you can hope for at any shop. It hurts, but look on the bright side: at least you don't drive a Taurus.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg



Doni and Rupununipete like this.
Check Codes is offline  
post #6 of 124 (permalink) Old 05-23-2006, 11:09 PM
C-2
BenzWorld Junior Member
 
Date registered: Aug 2005
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I too was thinking about doing this DIY.

But dealer quoted 2 hours and yup, it was like $210/$220.
C-2 is offline  
post #7 of 124 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 08:09 AM
BenzWorld Elite
 
Date registered: Aug 2005
Vehicle: 2003 S430 Sport Edition
Location: Curacao, Netherlands Antilles
Posts: 1,321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
I got mine replaced yesterday just in time before getting metal to metal. The Dealer charged me US$. 60,00 for each mount and i had the Bosch Car Service to change it. They charged me US$. 50,00 an hour.

The Bosch Tech lift the car on a dock and lift the engine a little and took both mount out from the rear. He slide each one(new) back inside and titghen it. After he lowered the engine on the mount and lowered the car

Over time the hydraulics will fail and the engine will drop slowly on the mount making the car idle rough. This is common for MB and VW cars.

Eddie

Last edited by Curacao; 05-24-2006 at 08:13 AM.
Curacao is offline  
post #8 of 124 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 07:20 AM
BenzWorld Junior Member
 
Date registered: Jun 2006
Vehicle: Mercedes 190E (1989) W201
Location: Canterbury, Kent
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I hate to make you guys sick - but I've just had a mobile mechanic come to me at work to replace both engine mounts, all six glow plugs, and the auxillary air-con fan belt - all three jobs took him all day to do, and he charged me £90 GBP all in!

About $170. What a hero.....
rjsdavis is offline  
post #9 of 124 (permalink) Old 09-20-2006, 12:46 PM
BenzWorld Junior Member
 
Date registered: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 1997 W210 E300D
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
What kind and where did you buy your mounts?

Hi Patrick,

Thanks for the great info on changing the motor mounts. My 1997 W210 is running rough and I suspect it is time to change out the mounts. Where did you buy yours and what kind? Do you know if the procedures that you described would apply to my year/model?

Thanks!
frankfong is offline  
post #10 of 124 (permalink) Old 09-28-2006, 06:05 PM
BenzWorld Senior Member
 
Date registered: Aug 2002
Vehicle: Mercedes W210 E320 wagon
Location: VA
Posts: 406
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I'd like to add specifications

Bolt of front engine mounts to front axle carrier - 35Nm
Bolt of engine mount to engine support - 55Nm

Bolt of engine support to crankcase

1st stage - 20Nm
Step 2 - 90 degrees
ratloko likes this.
Bansai is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Sedan Forums > W210 E-Class

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mercedes-Benz Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 

Title goes here

close
video goes here
description goes here. Read Full Story
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome