ECU fried, trying to figure out what to do - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by tartilc View Post
I'd love to if I could obtain one for a more reasonable price tbh. But nonetheless I'm really not trying to program anything rather just transplant all the relevant parts to my car from (what I thought) was an identical car.
If you don't need pre 2002 vehicles and have a laptop you can use a so called passthru device.
Cost is around $300 I send you pm with detail later.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 04:47 PM
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W203 as of 03 were a mixed bag, they used EIS from a W211, same with ESL. It literally depends on what options the car came in with, as certain 203 will be optioned with a different type EIS/ESL because of a certain option.

This was before the front SAMs could actually have more options beyond certain codes.

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(except left green pairs and brown pairs as I can't trace them without dismantling my dash, BUT I did just try to remove all brown pairs and green pairs from junction box just because, and attempted start, no difference at all??? Even though it's CAN wires so it should have made a difference, but nada, no good or bad difference), now black key does not lock/unlock the car anymore, outside temp on cluster shows 185 degrees instead of correct temp, mileage of 190k not steady anymore flashes now like 160k cluster did with dashed lines.
Those green and brown wires are absolutely critical. They are the CANBUS wires....how do you think the EIS communicates with the ECU to start the car? It's through the green CANBUS wires. Brown CANBUS is the powertrain system, i think. If those are disconnected, no communication, no start.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Vehicle: 2x 2005 E320CDI, 2002 C32 AMG, 2003 C32 AMG (parts car), 1987 560SEC
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Originally Posted by Deplore View Post
W203 as of 03 were a mixed bag, they used EIS from a W211, same with ESL. It literally depends on what options the car came in with, as certain 203 will be optioned with a different type EIS/ESL because of a certain option.

This was before the front SAMs could actually have more options beyond certain codes.



Those green and brown wires are absolutely critical. They are the CANBUS wires....how do you think the EIS communicates with the ECU to start the car? It's through the green CANBUS wires. Brown CANBUS is the powertrain system, i think. If those are disconnected, no communication, no start.
Ok so as far as the CANBUS wiring, I have checked and replaced literally everything up front dash wise. So instead of the hacked together initial harness I tried (which honestly should have worked as I did it correctly in my opinion). I then replaced the dash harness with one out of a 2005 W203. I didn't think it would work anyways as the wiring ended up being rather different (CAN bus wiring completely different, but the EIS and ESL harness was correct which is why I attempted it). No difference with anything.

Next I pulled another harness from a 2003 W203. This ended up being identical to my donor C32's and what I am certain needs to work. So I installed that and... nothing. Still does the same exact stuff. I pulled the front SAM's from the 2005 and 2003 and tried both. One peculiar thing of note was that when I first installed the 2005 SAM when i tried the remote the door locks worked. Then as soon as I tried the key in the EIS, locks no longer worked anymore. Also currently neither of my instrument clusters show the shifter position. The cluster also does not turn on until the second key click (it should turn on at the first click). Something *may* be corrupting the front SAM's. I also checked the power distribution block fusible links and all visible ground points I could see under hood and with dash and front carpets off.

I tried using Xentry to help a bit but I don't have a good enough cable quite yet, either way I don't think it's going to be much help at this stage as the car sees none of the control units (my setup for Xentry works on my other cars). I have attached a picture that illustrates this. Doing a CAN test isn't even possible as the car doesn't even see the EIS. Bummer.

SO, I think it *is* a CAN issue of some sort and I have to have a short to ground somewhere? What does this mean? Going to have to do what I was dreading... I think I'm going to pull the entire interior to check all wiring in the car, will go ahead and replace rear SAM too (hadn't replaced it at all yet).

Before that I'm planning to put all my wiring and modules back into my donor car and see what happens just to test and see if I have a solid basis to work with even. As long as all the modules can interact with each other I figure the fault can't lie within the stuff I've already checked.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Status update. It totally was the can bus wiring. Ripped the entire interior out of the car and transplanted the entire wiring harness from a 2003 into it. Decided to do this after putting all of the modules into my parts car and them all working just fine after. Looking through the old wiring it had a ton of shorted wiring throughout including several can bus pairs, making communication impossible. After this transplant and replacing all blown fuses again I finally got the car to start right up!

I also had to replace the shifter assembly, clock spring, turn signal/cruise/wiper stalk assembly, and steering wheel airbag due to incompatibility with the 2003 harness (I'm honestly shocked as to how literally everything between the 2002 and 2003 cars ended up being *completely* different despite being the same damn car).

Unfortunately it was running like garbage (high idle, any throttle would cause the car to start revving up and down) which I attributed to the damaged engine wiring harness, so I pulled the supercharger and everything off the motor and pulled all of the wiring. Currently in the process of putting all of that back together, hopefully it runs well again after this.

I still need to convert the fuel system to MAPS due to the new cluster being coded differently (doesn't show fuel level unless I use the old cluster), which will entail pulling my fuel pump and replacing it with a 2003+ unit, running new wiring to the rear SAM, and then I'm just going to replace the rear SAM too with a newer unit to save the hassle of coding that.

Then I will be going through all the functions of the car and making sure it all works perfectly again and finally reassemble it all.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 01:00 AM
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Well, I'm honestly impressed you got this far, but at this point you might as well transplant the whole donor car into your current car.

From your earlier post #1 case, it would've been easier to find a used M112K ECU from somewhere else, have someone virginize it and then you'd marry it to the car with your SDS.

But wow, that much work....I do have to commend you. I certainly wouldn't have done that much work to begin with.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, that totally would have been easier if the rest of the car were intact but I'm glad I got the donor car due to all of the rest of the fire damage lol (would have to source every single thing from various different cars)

And basically that's the plan I think, just so everything works in harmony.

Currently I'm dealing with a few really annoying issues, I have zero braking power despite replacing the brake fluid reservoir and filling it, and pressing the brake doesn't unlock the shifter. Thinking I'm going to replace the pressure switches and master cylinder and after that bleed the brakes and seeing if there is a difference.

The bigger issue is that the car doesn't idle. Starts right up, revs strongly, but as soon as I try and let it idle, it starts misfiring and stumbling and then after a bit of that it starts revving up and down and loses all throttle pedal response. It's a brand new throttle body (I still have the old one though) and a brand new throttle pedal (I have three in total now) plus I just replaced the whole engine harness (I thought this would fix it). Now I'm wondering if I'm looking at this completely wrong in regards to this issue and I have a vacuum leak somewhere. Ordered new manifold gaskets for where the supercharger mounts up, and considering doing all the injector seals. Any other suggestions?
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 01:46 PM
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Do a smoke check for vacuum leaks first. Failure to maintain idle is a very good sign of a massive vacuum leak.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:07 AM Thread Starter
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Do a smoke check for vacuum leaks first. Failure to maintain idle is a very good sign of a massive vacuum leak.
Absolutely, I wish I checked it all over first tbh, before ordering the manifold gasket I was hmm let's try spraying some starting fluid around the motor, right away the engine sputtered and the idle changed and everything so it's definitely got some kind of leak somewhere.
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